Spoiler alert..the week turns out great. Here I am siting in my beautiful Antwerp apartment writing this first post.

I tell you that up front because it had an auspicious start. Three days before I was to board my KLM flight to Amsterdam, I check the Netherland’s train app to see which train to take south to Antwerp upon my September 9th arrival. The screen immediately pops up with a big red alert—TRAIN STRIKE—NO TRAINS ON SEPTEMBER 9th. Lovely. With the help of European friends,Ivan and Nick, I look at all my alternatives….fly to Brussels or Paris and take the Eurostar to Antwerp, stay at the airport hotel until the strike is over, rent a car??? I reached out to my landlord in Antwerp, who despite being at a wedding in Greece, kindly said he would go to work on a solution. I wait. As I wait, suddenly a once resolved (?) health issue reappears and after a quick consult with my doctor, I’m instructed to arrange a STAT ultrasound on my temporal arteries over Labor Day weekend. It is no easy feat to work oneself into the radiology system on a holiday weekend, but I succeed in worming my way in and then I wait for the results. Wait Wait Wait..for everything. Then within minutes of each other my landlord messages me that his daughter’s boyfriend will pick me up in Amsterdam and drive me to Antwerp and an alert buzzes on my phone that the radiology report is ready and I am perfectly fine…cleared for takeoff!

I arrive to a downpour in Amsterdam and am so happy to see young Max at the curb waving at me. We quickly head out and make it easily to Antwerp. While I only have a carryon, I am grateful to have Max take it up the four flights of stairs to my apartment.

It is a beautiful place.

I quickly unpack, shower and head out to explore my new neighborhood—Antwerp Zuid. I am right on a big circle with restaurants and coffeehouses lining the circle.

I walk into the old town and admire the Cathedral of Our Lady and historic center.

Jet lag has me soon returning to my neighborhood for a simple dinner.

The next morning I look out my window and see it will be a sunny and bright day.

I join a walking tour of the historic center. I have to admit I was surprised to learn that Antwerp was at one time larger than London. During the 16th century it was one of Europe’s most important trade and financial centers. In the mid1500’s it was the second largest city in Europe after Paris.

Following the tour, I stop for lunch at Cafe de Armis.

I then head to the Central Station where I have made an appointment with Alda, a volunteer with International Greeters. Antwerp’s Central Station is rightly considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world.

Over coffee she does a wonderful job of explaining many of the neighborhoods and life as a local. She then walks me through some of the areas I would have missed without her guidance. She has brought me traditional Belgium cookies and a carefully annotated map, both of which I appreciated greatly. That night I eat on my circle at Maccine, recommended by a new neighbor of mine.

Friday dawns bright and sunny again and I first stop to see the 3×3 European basketball tournament.

I go back to the train station to get my all important annual transit pass.

I’ve also purchased an annual museum pass and I put it to use at the Royal Museum of Fine Arts which is only blocks from my apartment.

There is a special exhibit of the English sculptor Antony Gormley which I really enjoy.

I’ll come back but I have to go peek at the Rubens room before I leave. I walk along the Scheldt River. It’s a windy day but the views from the boardwalk are lovely.

I want to find the Sint-Annatunnel. The Sint-Annatunnel is a historic pedestrian and cyclist tunnel beneath the Scheldt River, connecting the city’s historic center with the Left Bank. Opened in 1933, it was designed to facilitate movement between the two banks without disrupting maritime traffic, featuring original wooden escalators and Art Deco architecture. It was recognized as a protected monument in 1997. I find it and go down it and under the river to the other side.

It is so odd to be on the wooden escalator along side so many bicyclists. On my way home I stop by the restaurant Lito. I follow the chef, Igor, on Instagram and he is siting outside talking to his sous chef Chala. I have a reservation there for later in my trip but it was fun to just sit and chat with them before they started the dinner preparation. For my dinner I stop again on the circle and have a delicious meal at Lucy Chang’s.

Saturday Market is a tradition in Antwerp and I love markets so I walk there. It is huge!

Loads of flower stands, prepared foods, cheeses, vegetables and fruits.I buy some flowers and cheeses and then get distracted by the Moroccan pancake stand. I go for the fully loaded one with chicken, cheese, peppers and even a whole dolma inside.

I head home with my wares as Nick and Ivan arrive this afternoon. They have come to 8 Shirleyfests since I met them at Berlin Shirleyfest. They are staying at the lovely Hotel Julien and so I head there. First things first, we find the gorgeous bar!

Later Nick and I go to 5:30 mass at The Cathedral of Our Lady.

This is the largest Gothic church in Belgium and houses several Ruben masterpieces. Started in 1352 it took 170 years to build. After mass Nick goes to find the organist and I talk to Father Bart (he says “My name is Father Bart, like Bart Simpson”). Then we meet up with Ivan and we uber quite a distance to the restaurant Danieli Il Divino.

This is quite the famous spot in Antwerp as the restaurant has existed in Parc de Brandt for 25 years. It is a very popular place with classically trained waiters and amazing food and wine. We have a long dinner before catching an uber home.

Sunday is open monument day in Antwerp. Ivan has selected a couple of places for us to go visit. We walk first towards the Bourgerhout neighborhood.

We first stop at a new place only open one week called Scottie’s where we meet owner Arno Scott. We have coffees and cakes. This place would fit right in with San Francisco’s dogpatch neighborhood. Across the street is Districhuis, a former town hall. It was originally constructed to showcase the wealth and political independence of Borgerhout during a booming economic period. Since Borgerhout merged with the city of Antwerp in 1983, it has functioned as the district house rather than an independent town hall.

On the second floor, seven dancers in period costumes entertain us and we roam about the building afterwards pretending we are officials.

Walking back to the other side of town we stop quickly for lunch and move on to St Paul’s church where we were entertained by a woman playing a Spanish 12 string guitar.

We part ways before reconnecting for drinks later at Hotel Julian to meet Guy and Luc, friends of Ivan and Nick. Over a nice bottle of wine I learned a great deal about their local life in Antwerp and I hope to meet up with them both again during this trip.

Now we are off to Fiskebar in my neighborhood. I go with octopus and crab cakes which are very good but I’m a bit envious of Nick’s mussels and frites.

The guys come over to see my place afterwards and then they walk back to their hotel.

It’s my visitors last day so we start first at their hotel to have coffee with their friend Sophie. She’s delightful. She and her husband are dance teachers specializing in the Lindy Hop. She and I make plans to get together soon and she is off to work. We are off to Het Steen, the famous Antwerp Castle.Het Steen is a medieval fortress on the Scheldt River in Antwerp. Built in the early 13th century, it is the city’s oldest preserved building. Originally part of the city’s defenses, it later served as a prison and is now a visitor center and museum. Its name means “The Stone,” reflecting its stone construction. There is an expansive history of Antwerp exhibit inside the castle which guides the visitor to all the other wonderful museums in Antwerp.

Lunch today is at Cafe Arte nearby.

Tonight we take the train about 30 minutes outside of town to Ivan’s dad’s home. We walk about 20 minutes after getting off the train. There is a bread vending machine on the sidewalk as we pass!

Ivan’s dad has prepared us a lovely dinner and it is such a festive evening!

We train home and sadly I say goodbye to my dear friends until the next time we meet.

Tomorrow I’m planning to head out to Cogels-Oyslei, considered one of the most beautiful streets in the world, Stay tuned and please do leave a comment below.