Antwerp: Week 2. Amazing Art, Dreamy Day Trips

Let’s start with a fun fact I’ve discovered on this Shirleyfest. On the same day I had a black coffee at the train station, a small bottle of still water at a café and a draft beer at a famous artisanal brewery. The fun fact: They all cost exactly the same! In France only the uninformed buy bottled water at restaurants. In France you just say “une carafe d’eau” and you get a lovely free carafe of water at any place you go. It’s the law. No such law in Belgium.

I head out in the early sunny morning to the area called Cogels-Osylei, a residential boulevard in the Zurenborg district of Antwerp, widely considered one of the most beautiful streets in Belgium. The area was developed primarily between 1894 and 1906 and features a high concentration of opulent townhouses, mansions, and small palaces. It is a long street so I go down one side and then back up the other.

After admiring home after home, I stop for a coffee and treat before heading back to my apartment.

After a quick lunch in my neighborhood, I start my walk to MAS, “Museum by the River”, which was opened to the public in 2011. The first thing I notice is the amazing architecture. It is 10 stories high and each story is stacked like a box on top of the story below. I squint and see that all over the outside of the building are little hand sculptures. This is a nod to the legend of Antwerp getting its name from “Ant” (hand) “twerp” (throwing) whereby their version of a David cut off the hand of the big bad giant (Goliath) and threw it in the Scheldt River.

I start at the top for a panoramic view of Antwerp then methodically work my way through each of the floors. The exhibitions all had a ton of effort put into them and it was fairly well attended by all ages. I would have to say the fact that 60% of the exhibits are interactive which is what attracts the students, is not something I love.

I do love a good Belgium beer, so after leaving the museum I went nearby to one of the oldest bars in Antwerp, ‘t Licht der Dokken (The Light of the Docks). It was fun sitting outside on the canal and watching the locals consume copious amounts of beer.

The next day I decide to do a day trip to Ghent. Ghent is a port city, at the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers. During the Middle Ages it was a prominent city-state. Today it’s a university town and cultural hub. Its pedestrianized center is known for medieval architecture such as the 12th-century castle and a row of guildhalls beside the Leie river harbor. I take a tram to the smaller Antwerp Zuid train station and it is a piece of cake to get to Ghent.

I walk about 15 minutes from the Ghent train station into town. I do a self guided walking tour. Everything is story book beautiful.

As I often do during day trips, I made a reservation for an afternoon lunch at a Michelin 1 star restaurant. Publiek exceeded my expectations. Take a look!

I happily walk back to the station for my short train ride back to Antwerp……nope! About 15 minutes into the ride the train stops at a small station and we are all told to get off the train. There is an issue on the track. It is pretty confusing what they want us all to do, but I find a conductor and he said if I’m willing to go to any station in Antwerp I should get on the next train to Mechelen (going the opposite way I want to go and then from there I can get a train to Antwerp. Off I go to sort out the track to Mechelen. It all worked out but what should have been a 50 minute train ride was 3 hours to get back to Antwerp. Good thing I had that delicious multi course lunch to keep me happy.

Today is another sunny day and I map out a walking route that has me go to the Modern Art Museum, then visit a secret historic alley in the center of town and finally the Red Star Line Museum. The walk is beautiful. The Modern Art Museum is…well contemporary.

As I walk towards the center I see Funk Bakery which I’ve being wanting to go to. I make a quick stop. I usually don’t go for the chocolate croissants, but something told me in Chocolate-focused Belgium that would be a good choice.

Oh my gosh! Instead of bits of chocolate there were delicious bars of chocolate embedded in the croissant. Good thing this is a long walking day.

Vlaeykensgang Alley is a medieval lane from 1591. Very few people even know it exists.It is a little street with covered passages leading to many courtyards surrounded by ancient houses. There was a young school group there being lead by a priest and they were so cute and well behaved. I noticed two restaurants in the passage that I want to come back to.

Finally I get to the Red Star Line Museum that is about as far north as you can go in Antwerp. The Red Star Line was the original shipping line that brought nearly 3 million immigrants to primarily Philadelphia and New York from Antwerp from 1872 and 1935. The museum is in an old warehouse at the port. I was blown away by the exhibits. Every detail was presented in photographs, videos and commentary. It was fascinating, sad, enlightening, and hopeful all rolled into one. It was beyond moving! I spent a long time here and I might go back again.

The last exhibition at the museum is a video called “Dance”. It is a modern day depiction of immigration. I was mesmerized. When I got home I found it on YouTube and watched it several more times. I tried to link it here but YouTube wasn’t having that. You can look it up—-it’s Hans Op de Beeck and it’s called “Dance”. It is for mature audiences.

But now I got to get home to get ready for dinner at Lito. In my last post I mentioned I talked to the chef and sous chef outside the restaurant last week. I told them I had an upcoming reservations. Well it was like I was family when I came in. They came out to greet me and honestly I felt so special! Immediately the chef sent out some tasty and beautifully arranged mussels as a gift and then each course was better than the one before.

Friday I have plans with two different local new friends who I mentioned in my last post. Sophie and Luc. First I meet Sophie at the Photography Museum (FOMO) . This is also an excellent museum. We explore each floor before having lunch in the museum cafe.

I really like Sophie and I got to learn how she became of all things a Lindy-Hop dance teacher with her partner Ivo. She is a good example of how so much of our paths are unplanned opportunities that we recognize and take a chance to pursue.

I quickly get back to my apartment because Luc is coming by to take me to some new places in Antwerp and then cooking me dinner at his home. We start with the Rockox museum which I have been wanting to get to. It is located in two neighboring townhouses formerly owned by the artist Frans Synder and the mayor Nicholas Rockox. It is owned by KBC bank and showcases a collection of 16th and 17th century Flemish art. My favorite piece is the one by Breuguel, Netherlandish Proverbs. It is a 1559 oil-on-oak-panel painting that depicts a scene in which humans and, to a lesser extent, animals and objects, offer literal illustrations of Dutch-language proverbs and idioms. Luc and I have such a good time trying to guess what the proverb is from the art. Then we turn around and see there is an interactive display where you slide your finger over the area and it tells you the proverb. To our credit we got many of them right. Take a look and see if you can get some of them.

From there we go to the university area. I’m not sure I could have found this area without Luc and I love being there. The University of Antwerp has about 20,000 students, which makes it the third-largest university in Flanders. We stop at a cafe on what seems to be the University of Antwerp equivalent of Washington Square Park at NYU.

We also take a detour down the one block street of the red light district of Antwerp.

Now we are at Luc’s beautiful restored home and he is quite the cook. He patiently explains how he made each course and I am going to try to replicate some of his dishes.

Saturday Sophie has agreed to go with me to Axel-Voordt which is a bit out of Antwerp in a tower called Wijnegem. Shout out to my friend Maryan who told me it was a must see when I am in Antwerp. When I told Sophie I was going she said she had never been and always wanted to go. I said, “Great, let’s go on Saturday. It’s a 90 minute bus ride.” She laughed so hard.”I’ll drive” she said.

We arrive when it opens at 11am. Originally built in 1857, the site was a former distillery and malting complex. The existing architecture included brick warehouses and concrete grain silos situated along the banks of the Albert Canal. We are so curious as to how the art will be presented. Wow!

The installations and exhibition spaces rely on the bones of the existing industrial architecture and were designed to give new purpose to the old buildings. A James Turrell light piece, “Red Shift”, from 1995 is permanently installed in a disused chapel. Works by Marina Abramovic, Otto Bol, Kimsooja, Tatsuo Miyajima, Otto Piene, Takis, and Angel Vergara are installed at the base of several converted grain silos. These are in addition to a permanent installation by Anish Kapoor titled, “At the Edge of the World”. I’ve seen Anish Kapoor’s works and installations all over the world and this was just spectacular.

I’m not sure my pictures can do justice to this installation, but I am so very happy I came to this site.

We had lunch at a very nice restaurant on the premises called Silo. When we arrived we noticed a fairly big crowd of all ages milling about. Turns out a wedding had just taken place next door and the bride and groom’s family were hosting their wedding lunch there. The food was excellent and the space really pretty.

I get back in time to go to 5:30 mass again at the Cathedral of Our Lady. Father Bart remembers me and we chat after mass. They have a “social hour” after the mass so I went to check it out. At my church at home that means coffee and donuts outside the church. Here right inside the Cathedral and beside the sacristy there is a FULL BAR. I really want to take a photo, but I also really don’t want to get struck lightening so I don’t. I have to admit it was pretty cool.

I know tomorrow is going to be rainy so I set my alarm and am up early to go to the central station to take the hour train to Brussels. I am early enough to have a coffee in the Grand Cafe at the train station. Such a pleasure.

I signed up for a walking tour so I quickly go to the main square when the train arrives. It is a great tour. We cover all of Brussels.

This last picture (video) requires an explanation. Apparently the mascot of Brussels is Manneken Pis (a nude boy urinating into a fountain) There are so many legends about why this statue is the famous symbol of Brussels I dont know what to believe. Here is the video.

After the walking tour, I go to the famous coffeehouse Bouche which is in the museum area.

While I am outside sipping my coffee, an impromptu parade goes by.

Then I go to the René Magritte museum, opened in 2009. I am in heaven. Three floors of Magritte art.

I decide to also take in the Royal Museum of Fine Arts as it is right next door. It is the most visited museums in Belgium as it contains paintings by Ruben, van Dyck, Hals, Bruegel and many other Old Masters. The museum was founded by Napoleon in 1801 and its is a fantastic building to explore.

Now a dilemma. Should I train back or traverse the town to Delirium, the famous artisanal beer house of Brussels? It is three levels and holds the Guinness World Record for offering over 2,000 types of beer. What do you think?

Now I must go. I make my way back to the Brussels Train Station. Punch my destination into my rail app and download a first class ticket back to Antwerp for the tidy sum of 5 euros. What a day!

Actually what a week! Thanks for following along. Please feel free to leave a comment below. Coming up in this next week, I have visitors from Paris arriving!

Antwerp Arrival Week

Spoiler alert..the week turns out great. Here I am siting in my beautiful Antwerp apartment writing this first post.

I tell you that up front because it had an auspicious start. Three days before I was to board my KLM flight to Amsterdam, I check the Netherland’s train app to see which train to take south to Antwerp upon my September 9th arrival. The screen immediately pops up with a big red alert—TRAIN STRIKE—NO TRAINS ON SEPTEMBER 9th. Lovely. With the help of European friends,Ivan and Nick, I look at all my alternatives….fly to Brussels or Paris and take the Eurostar to Antwerp, stay at the airport hotel until the strike is over, rent a car??? I reached out to my landlord in Antwerp, who despite being at a wedding in Greece, kindly said he would go to work on a solution. I wait. As I wait, suddenly a once resolved (?) health issue reappears and after a quick consult with my doctor, I’m instructed to arrange a STAT ultrasound on my temporal arteries over Labor Day weekend. It is no easy feat to work oneself into the radiology system on a holiday weekend, but I succeed in worming my way in and then I wait for the results. Wait Wait Wait..for everything. Then within minutes of each other my landlord messages me that his daughter’s boyfriend will pick me up in Amsterdam and drive me to Antwerp and an alert buzzes on my phone that the radiology report is ready and I am perfectly fine…cleared for takeoff!

I arrive to a downpour in Amsterdam and am so happy to see young Max at the curb waving at me. We quickly head out and make it easily to Antwerp. While I only have a carryon, I am grateful to have Max take it up the four flights of stairs to my apartment.

4 flights like this from the front door to my apartment door and then 2 more flights like this to the bedrooms

It is a beautiful place.

I quickly unpack, shower and head out to explore my new neighborhood—Antwerp Zuid. I am right on a big circle with restaurants and coffeehouses lining the circle.

I walk into the old town and admire the Cathedral of Our Lady and historic center.

Jet lag has me soon returning to my neighborhood for a simple dinner.

The next morning I look out my window and see it will be a sunny and bright day.

I join a walking tour of the historic center. I have to admit I was surprised to learn that Antwerp was at one time larger than London. During the 16th century it was one of Europe’s most important trade and financial centers. In the mid1500’s it was the second largest city in Europe after Paris.

Following the tour, I stop for lunch at Cafe de Armis.

I then head to the Central Station where I have made an appointment with Alda, a volunteer with International Greeters. Antwerp’s Central Station is rightly considered one of the most beautiful train stations in the world.

Over coffee she does a wonderful job of explaining many of the neighborhoods and life as a local. She then walks me through some of the areas I would have missed without her guidance. She has brought me traditional Belgium cookies and a carefully annotated map, both of which I appreciated greatly. That night I eat on my circle at Maccine, recommended by a new neighbor of mine.

Friday dawns bright and sunny again and I first stop to see the 3×3 European basketball tournament.

I go back to the train station to get my all important annual transit pass.

I’ve also purchased an annual museum pass and I put it to use at the Royal Museum of Fine Arts which is only blocks from my apartment.

There is a special exhibit of the English sculptor Antony Gormley which I really enjoy.

I’ll come back but I have to go peek at the Rubens room before I leave. I walk along the Scheldt River. It’s a windy day but the views from the boardwalk are lovely.

I want to find the Sint-Annatunnel. The Sint-Annatunnel is a historic pedestrian and cyclist tunnel beneath the Scheldt River, connecting the city’s historic center with the Left Bank. Opened in 1933, it was designed to facilitate movement between the two banks without disrupting maritime traffic, featuring original wooden escalators and Art Deco architecture. It was recognized as a protected monument in 1997. I find it and go down it and under the river to the other side.

It is so odd to be on the wooden escalator along side so many bicyclists. On my way home I stop by the restaurant Lito. I follow the chef, Igor, on Instagram and he is siting outside talking to his sous chef Chala. I have a reservation there for later in my trip but it was fun to just sit and chat with them before they started the dinner preparation. For my dinner I stop again on the circle and have a delicious meal at Lucy Chang’s.

Saturday Market is a tradition in Antwerp and I love markets so I walk there. It is huge!

Loads of flower stands, prepared foods, cheeses, vegetables and fruits.I buy some flowers and cheeses and then get distracted by the Moroccan pancake stand. I go for the fully loaded one with chicken, cheese, peppers and even a whole dolma inside.

I head home with my wares as Nick and Ivan arrive this afternoon. They have come to 8 Shirleyfests since I met them at Berlin Shirleyfest. They are staying at the lovely Hotel Julien and so I head there. First things first, we find the gorgeous bar!

Later Nick and I go to 5:30 mass at The Cathedral of Our Lady.

This is the largest Gothic church in Belgium and houses several Ruben masterpieces. Started in 1352 it took 170 years to build. After mass Nick goes to find the organist and I talk to Father Bart (he says “My name is Father Bart, like Bart Simpson”). Then we meet up with Ivan and we uber quite a distance to the restaurant Danieli Il Divino.

This is quite the famous spot in Antwerp as the restaurant has existed in Parc de Brandt for 25 years. It is a very popular place with classically trained waiters and amazing food and wine. We have a long dinner before catching an uber home.

Sunday is open monument day in Antwerp. Ivan has selected a couple of places for us to go visit. We walk first towards the Bourgerhout neighborhood.

We first stop at a new place only open one week called Scottie’s where we meet owner Arno Scott. We have coffees and cakes. This place would fit right in with San Francisco’s dogpatch neighborhood. Across the street is Districhuis, a former town hall. It was originally constructed to showcase the wealth and political independence of Borgerhout during a booming economic period. Since Borgerhout merged with the city of Antwerp in 1983, it has functioned as the district house rather than an independent town hall.

On the second floor, seven dancers in period costumes entertain us and we roam about the building afterwards pretending we are officials.

Walking back to the other side of town we stop quickly for lunch and move on to St Paul’s church where we were entertained by a woman playing a Spanish 12 string guitar.

We part ways before reconnecting for drinks later at Hotel Julian to meet Guy and Luc, friends of Ivan and Nick. Over a nice bottle of wine I learned a great deal about their local life in Antwerp and I hope to meet up with them both again during this trip.

Now we are off to Fiskebar in my neighborhood. I go with octopus and crab cakes which are very good but I’m a bit envious of Nick’s mussels and frites.

The guys come over to see my place afterwards and then they walk back to their hotel.

It’s my visitors last day so we start first at their hotel to have coffee with their friend Sophie. She’s delightful. She and her husband are dance teachers specializing in the Lindy Hop. She and I make plans to get together soon and she is off to work. We are off to Het Steen, the famous Antwerp Castle.Het Steen is a medieval fortress on the Scheldt River in Antwerp. Built in the early 13th century, it is the city’s oldest preserved building. Originally part of the city’s defenses, it later served as a prison and is now a visitor center and museum. Its name means “The Stone,” reflecting its stone construction. There is an expansive history of Antwerp exhibit inside the castle which guides the visitor to all the other wonderful museums in Antwerp.

Lunch today is at Cafe Arte nearby.

Tonight we take the train about 30 minutes outside of town to Ivan’s dad’s home. We walk about 20 minutes after getting off the train. There is a bread vending machine on the sidewalk as we pass!

Ivan’s dad has prepared us a lovely dinner and it is such a festive evening!

We train home and sadly I say goodbye to my dear friends until the next time we meet.

Tomorrow I’m planning to head out to Cogels-Oyslei, considered one of the most beautiful streets in the world, Stay tuned and please do leave a comment below.

Announcing Shirleyfest 2026

Shall I give you some hints? Diamonds, chocolates and beer. Fashion, art, finance and one of the most beautiful train stations in the world.

For five centuries the northern Belgian port city of Antwerp has been a thriving European center of diamonds, art and finance, with one of the world’s first stock exchanges. Works by the Flemish master Rubens welcome you into all the beautiful churches in the city. Europeans claim Antwerp to have the edgiest fashion and most unique design centers. All of these traits captivate me.

Moreover, flowing through Antwerp is the river Scheldt. Antwerp is linked to the North Sea by the river’s estuary. Antwerp is about 25 miles north of Brussels, and 9 miles south of the Dutch border. Antwerp’s port is one of the biggest in the world, ranking second in Europe after Rotterdam.

After 16 years of Shirleyfests, I know that a city with a river always brings interesting history to learn from and become immersed in. Since a big part of Shirleyfest is pumping up my right brain, I also love choosing a city known for art and fashion. For all of these reasons, Shirleyfest will be reporting from Antwerp, Belgium this fall.

But wait….there is a twist to this year’s Shirleyfest. Since I plan on doing many many more Shirleyfests, I decide to see if I can do a little reconnaissance on possible future Shirleyfest cities. Therefore, after my month in Antwerp, I will be spending a bit of time exploring two of those possibilities.

First up will be Ljubljana, Slovenia.

Following my time in Slovenia, I will fly to the beautiful seacoast city of Valencia, Spain

As with every year, please let me know if you know people in any of these cities. I am always happy to meet new people as I navigate my travels and do please follow along with me as I embark on Shirleyfest 16!

Lyon: Final Post

There comes a time when I either have to leave or move here. Let me report on my final days in Lyon.

I am excited to meet Christine and Jean-Michel who live in Lyon. They were the French parents to my friend Elaine when she studied in France and Elaine’s mom, my friend Nancy, kindly introduced us. We agree to meet for lunch at Grand Cafe des Négociants. Négociants means “traders” and created in 1864, this is such a historical restaurant in Lyon. It was once a place of negotiations for diamond dealers and silk traders. It is beautiful with luxurious tiles, many mirrors and a painted ceiling.

We have a delicious lunch and then walk through the oldest section of central Lyon.

Afterwards, my new friends suggest we go further south on the peninsula and see an ancient church called Église Catholique Saint Martin D’Ainay. The huge basilica was first a Benedictine priory founded in 859. It was consecrated as a church in 1107 and is one of the finest Romanesque churches still standing.

While we are inside walking around, a docent approachs Jean-Michel and asks in French if we want a tour. Christine tells him only if it could be done in English so I can join in. He says,”But of course. I am half American. My father was shot down in France during the war and married my French mother.”

He gives us a very nice tour sprinkled with a lot of details about his family and himself.

We decide to walk along the river after the tour and Lyon never looked prettier.

I really enjoy getting to know Christine and Jean-Michel and I have a feeling I will see them again.

The next day I decide this will be the day I will visit the other three bakeries that are in the running for best croissant of Lyon. It is raining when I start out at 8 am, but it is a nice rain so I walk through town and over the bridges of the two rivers.

I get to Boulangerie Saint-Paul. I get my croissant and take it to a table for the tasting.

Oh my gosh, this is so good! This will be hard to beat. The texture is perfect and the croissant is baked perfectly.

I walk through Vieux Lyon searching for Boulangerie du Palais. I find it and there is no one else inside, so I quickly get my croissant. A quick picture of my purchase and then I perform my taste test. Excellent, but it isn’t quite as crusty on the outside as Saint-Paul’s.

The last bakery is quite a distance away, so I decide to walk through the almost deserted Vieux Lyon and savor the atmosphere.

I see the Duclef bakery (which I had stopped at with Nick and Ivan last week) and think about adding another candidate to the contest so I go in. They tell me they do not make croissants. Since I am there, I spy a financier with a dusting of orange zest, so I take a break and have a café allonge and the financier.

I realize the last bakery might be reached more easily if I first went to the top of the hill on the funicular. Heading to the funicular, the weather is starting to get much better and the trees look so lovely.

Once I get off the funicular, it is blue skies and beautiful fall weather. I walk around that area and visit the “Eiffel tower of Lyon”.

I am winding my way toward Boulangerie Henri Gay which has won the most recent prize as the best croissant of Lyon. I try to stop at the Jardin of Curiosities, but I am stopped by a construction crew digging up the only street that goes there. I take picture from a nearby viewpoint.

Onward. I make it to Henri Gay and ask for the famous croissant. I am so excited to try it that I just photograph it in the store and take a bite right there. Sorry, but it was a disappointment. Very very soft and just not as much flavor. At the end of this post, I will announce the winner among the six bakeries.

The day has turned out beautifully and I decide to walk the long way back to the 6th arrondissement for lunch at Saint-Potin. This translates to Holy Gossip which is funny because it sits in the shadow of Saint Pothin church.

This place is happening. The manager Michael tells me that it is even busier at night when it turns into a tapas bar. I order the plat du jour.

Afterwards I go visit the namesake church. From the outside it resembles our Supreme Court.

Inside it is stunning. It is in the neoclassical style and looks like a Greek temple. It has a Latin cross form, and its facade has a Doric portico, topped by a triangular pediment. There are friezes and beautiful stained glass windows.

After three croissants, short ribs and polenta, I think it is prudent of me to walk the 45 minutes to the Museum of Contemporary Art. Off I go and I feel like I am in movie. The day is glorious and all along the route I see so many beautiful sites.

I am nearly at the museum when I see lots of security cameras and gates and I am wondering what is going on, when I look at the top of the nearest building.

Interpol! I am strolling by the world’s largest international police organization.

Interpol has every country in the world as a member. I knew the headquarters were in Lyon, but I didn’t expect to be walking by it. I love spy things. I wonder if they are hiring?

I’ll look into that hiring thing when I get home. Now I am finally at the museum.

When they say Contemporary Art, they really do not mean Modern Art. This is very far out with mostly installation art, videos, and some things that I really do not understand. Here are some of the things I see.

The Back of Hollywood. Artist Ruscha evokes the other side of Hollywood, bathed in an exaggeratedly red sunset. This is supposedly exploring the idea of a cinema or a car windshield , the prism of which the city is generally perceived through.

Artist Milinović is supposedly depicting suspended bodies which are collapsing through modernist urban housing.

Artist Ndzube creates a dreamlike world in which workers advance in frozen procession.

Stock market crash

I have walked a lot today. I notice there is a bus stop outside of Interpol (people who work at Interpol take the bus? Isn’t that a breach of security?) so I hop on and get off close to my apartment. What a fantastic day I’ve had. Just when I don’t think it can get any better, look what the bus lets me off in front of.

The only English mass in Lyon is in La Chapelle de L’Hotel-Dieu. I’ve been to 8 masses while in France, but none in English so I head there for an evening mass at 6 pm. It is a lovely chapel inside what was once a hospital established in 1440 by the Duke of Burgundy.

I get there about 5:45 pm. There is quite a crowd and musicians are practicing on the side of the altar. 6pm comes and goes and the mass has not started. I have never been to a mass that doesn’t start on time, but maybe in France this happens. I wait some more. At 6:15 pm one of the musicians announces that the priest is running late, but will be coming to do the mass. Ok this is unusual. The musicians asks the congregation to practice the hymns for the evening. We do that. Still no priest. I have a dinner reservation and I have come about 40 minutes from home for this mass. At 6:40 I give up. I really don’t know if the priest ever came.

Today I will try to go to 9 am mass at Saint Joseph where I went when I got to Lyon. I check the website to be sure there is a 9 am mass. There is. I walk the 6 blocks there. I find on the door a piece of paper saying the 9 am mass is cancelled.I’m starting to wonder. Third times the charm though. I pivot and go to Saint Pothin which I mentioned above. It is a gorgeous mass and a beautiful church.

To treat myself for my persistence, I get a kouign amann at my local bakery. It is a very good thing that I haven’t had this earlier in the trip. It is probably the best pastry I’ve had in Paris or Lyon. I would have had one of these every day if I had known.

Today I have two things on my agenda. I have a reservation for lunch at Le Kitchen and tonight I am going to a candlelight concert.

Le Kitchen is in the student areas of two of Lyon’s universities (Lumière and Jean Moulin). It is a Michelin bib restaurant. One of its owners was born in Stockholm and the interior is a mixture of Sandinavian and Art Deco design. The menu has you pick from 2 choices for each course. It turns out that both of the starter courses involve mushrooms, so the chef tells me he will make something just for me.

The main course is a mixture of three meats (chicken, pork and veal) wrapped in cabbage.

Such a delicious lunch! Afterwards I go back into the center of town. Many years ago when I hiked the Tour de Mont Blanc I bought Swiss Francs because that is one of three countries I would be hiking into during the trip. I never used the currency and kept it in an envelope in a drawer with lots of other foreign currencies. I looked it up once and found out my bills had been replaced in Switzerland and I would have to exchange them at a Swiss bank. Impulsively, I brought the currency with me thinking I might do a day trip to Geneva. I did not go to Geneva, but in Lyon I noticed a sign on a building near the Opera House for “Banque de Genèva”. Perfect. I’ll go there. It is quite a process to get access to this building. I ring the buzzer and then a security guard comes down. He lets me into an elevator with an access card and I go to the top floor. There I am met by two women in business suits. There are no other customers around and this is starting to not look like a bank. I show them my envelope filled with Swiss francs and to their credit they do not laugh. They explain in perfect English that despite the name, this is indeed not a bank. This is a Swiss private asset management operation. However, they tell me if I go just past the Opera House there is a Global Exchange office that will change these into Euros despite the fact that they are outdated Swiss currency. Guess what? I do that. Found money and a good story!

I have to get home to get ready for the candlelight concert. The music is Vivaldi and it is being held at the Chapelle de la Trinité. This is a historic monument in the heart of the Presqu’île district. It is Baroque architecture built by the Jesuits in 1617.

I have the good fortune to go into the concert alongside a French businesswoman named Natasha. We have both splurged on the first row for this concert and we are seated next to each other. We have a delightful conversation while we wait for the concert to begin. The concert is magical. The venue is breathtaking and the music so perfectly suited for the chapel.

This is an encore piece they did after finishing the Vivaldi performance

I have not had dinner so after the concert I go back to Café des Négociants for a salad and a glass of wine.

I am not quite done for the day as I have an idea to walk a few bridges down the river and get a shot of the Palace of Justice at night. I know it is late but I am on a mission to do this. I am so glad I did. Below is the shot. Now I walk home.

It is time to reveal the winner of the best croissant of Lyon. Drum roll. It is Boulangerie Saint-Paul. It is the clear choice. I’ll show you the picture again.

In honor of its winning, I go back to Boulangerie Saint-Paul this morning. No more croissants for me. This time I get a Pain au Raisin. I think the raisins are soaked in a liquor. It is so good I am wondering if I should have had a contest for these instead of croissants!

I sit outside and watch the world pass by. I notice croissants cooling in an upstairs window.

Next time I look they are gone.

I want to go back towards the funicular, as I envision a shot of the funicular rising above the street in the old town. I find the street that works and here is the shot.

My dinner tonight is to return to Brasserie Roseaux in my neighborhood. I’ve taken many of my visitors there, but tonight I will try it alone. I get the same waiter, Elie. It is every bit as special as the other times I’ve been. I tell Elie that I am leaving Lyon soon and he whispers to me that he will really miss me. I will miss him and this fantastic neighborhood restaurant.

Today I will get the train back to Paris. Just before I leave, I hear someone call my name on the street. It is Elie! What a nice person to see as I leave Lyon.

I Uber to Gare Part-Dieu and find my TGV platform. I see some beautiful countryside on my ride.

I have the good fortunate to sit across from Sapheer, a student from Lille. We talk all the way to Paris. He is a finance major at the university in Lille. We exchange information before he gives me a hand with my luggage in Paris.

In my travels I can actually feel my brain and heart expanding as I meet new people, enjoy a new city with visitors and learn new things. It is truly one of the best things I do for myself each year. I also find the mix of visitors (some from other Shirleyfests), new local people and alone time works well for me. When I am alone, many days I turn off my cell service so I can just be present with what presents itself. I don’t really want to check emails or news or stock tickers or messages. I also like to see if I can find things without google maps. Doing that challenges my memory and brain and I often discover things that wouldn’t have been on a google map route from point A to point B.

It is goodbye to Lyon for now. What a fantastic two months I have had in France. I’ve seen so much and learned so much about living in France. One thing that really comes through is that people in France savor their lives. It is a joyful economy. Food, flowers, time with family and friends, music, parks, gardens, museums and all of life are appreciated in the moment. Things get done properly and in timely fashion, but efficiency for efficiency sake is not a consideration. I want to keep that attitude firmly in mind.

Thanks for following along.

Lyon Post 3: Friends, Food, Film Festival

The day after saying goodbye to Jim and Vince, I have the United Nations of friends arrive: Elena from Paris, Nick from London and Ivan from Lisbon. They all arrive at different times and via different transport, but of course the first thing we do is have a nice lunch.

This is Ayla, a Lebanese restaurant a short walk from my apartment. The restaurant is run by husband and wife Najem and Corinne.

The food is fresh and inventive and packed with flavor. Najem explains everything in great detail and is so accommodating when we decide to switch to a different table. Ottolenghi watch out!

After lunch, Ivan is intent on swimming, so we all go over to the Centre Nautique Tony Bertrand. Built on the occasion of Lyon’s candidacy for the 1968 Olympics, this public pool, built along side the Rhône river, is huge and gorgeous. It only costs 8 euros for admission and they are strict about bathing costumes. Ivan had to buy a regulation suit from a machine.

Elena and I enjoy walking along the river and meeting the owners of a nearby restaurant, Jules and Tim, who try valiantly to convince us to join a wine festival dinner they are hosting that night.

Swimming accomplished, we walk back to my neighborhood in the sun.

After changing into our dinner clothes, we start the evening with a wine and cheese party at my apartment.

Dinner tonight is at Brasserie Roseaux. You may remember when I was last there, I was envious of the table with the steak tartare. Well, I am able to get over that now.

Elie, our great server, does the honors tableside.

Some of us even have room for dessert.

The next morning, it is time for breakfast at my place. I provide the coffee, but Elena goes out early and selects one of everything in the pastry department.

No time like the present to have entry number 3 in the best croissant of Lyon contest. This one is from Copain. This bakery is in my building and I smell bread baking every morning when I wake up.

Crispy on the outside, soft and buttery on the inside. Copain may take the lead in the contest.

The nearby Parc Tete d’or is calling to us on this sunny day so we head off to explore.

The zoo, the botanical garden, miles of trails…..this park is a treasure for Lyon. Ivan is heading to swim again, so Nick and I watch out my window for Elena to come walk with us to lunch. Because I am on the street, we have a system where I just leave the window open and whoever is coming shouts up to us. I am sure the neighbors love this.

It’s a gorgeous day so we walk into Croix-Rousse so I can take them to Nafas, my Syrian refugee restuarnt for lunch. Over the river and through the winding streets we go.

We arrive and the family is happy to see that I have brought more people to their restaurant. There are no outside tables, but they find two blue tables and chairs and within minutes we are ordering.

We are entertained during lunch by watching three girls about four years old set up a make-shift hospital on a bench outside. They take turns being the doctor, nurse and patient. I’ve never seen kids that age act so fairly with each other!

After lunch we make our way to Les Bateaux Lyonnais boat launch. Ivan jumps out of uber last minute and joins us. It’s a stunningly beautiful day and we happily cruise the Saône River.

We are very thirsty after being in the water. Aperol Spritz anyone?

Tonight’s dinner ends up being delicious, just not at the restaurant we reserved. After a long uber ride to the top of Croix-Rousse, we find out the restaurant wants to seat us outside in the chilly night air at tables that look like they have never been used for dining. No thanks. I do get a good shot of the Ferris wheel before pivoting to Le Rive Gauche, a great fun restaurant back on my block.

After a lazy Sunday morning, we meet for lunch on a boathouse before splitting into two groups.

Nick and I have tickets for the Lyon Film Festival and Elena and Ivan choose to give up their tickets to go to the Beaux Art museum. We are seeing the Stanley Kubrick movie, Barry Lyndon. This is an epic 3 hour long historical drama made in 1975 starring a very young Ryan O’Neal.

It’s an adaption of the 1844 novel “The luck of Barry Lyndon”. Barry Lyndon won four Oscars at the 48th Academy Awards and in a 2022 poll of directors and film critics, Barry Lyndon won 12th in the directors’ poll and 45th in the critics’ poll. I have to be honest with you. I never heard of the movie. I just want to go because it is a Stanley Kubrick film and it was part of the film festival. Others are big fans of the movie, which we find out when Nick offers our extra tickets to a French couple standing in a long line hoping to get last minute tickets. Their thanks are genuine and profuse.

The theatre is filled. No one gets any refreshments. Not a popcorn bag in sight. This is an intense movie going crowd! Geraldine, an extremely nice staff member we had met the day before when we got the tickets, talks for 15 minutes before the movie starts. People seemed to enjoy her comments. I couldn’t tell you since it was rapid-fire French.

We emerge three hours later and need time to process all that we have seen. The movie presents like a novel capturing many chapters in Barry Lyndon’s life. Ryan O’Neal does a surprisingly good job.

We make our way over to Café Terroir where Elena and Ivan meet us. Café Terroir is a unique French traditional gastronomical Michelin restaurant offering a selection of local products found in all four corners of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. We are told Cold Play ate there last year. Now people can talk about the four of us eating there.

It’s our last dinner in Lyon together so of course we start with a bottle of bubbles. Things proceed from there! I believe there was one bottle (or two?) of a delicious French red too. It was a fantastic meal.

We decide to walk along the river home. It’s so beautiful out.

After breakfast Monday morning, we take the funicular up to Basilica Fourvieux. No matter how many times I see it, it still impresses me.

There is a restaurant next to the Basilica called Bulles with panoramic views of Lyon. We head there for a delicious lunch.

Elena sadly must leave us to catch her train back to Paris. I hope to see her again very soon. She is a wonderful new friend.

The three of us decide to visit the nearby Roman ruins and walk down the hill.

We can’t seem to make it down the hill without dessert.

With that, Ivan and Nick head off to fly back to Lisbon.

A wonderful visit with great friends!

Tuesday, I must make do again on my own. I decide to try the Michelin restaurant Flair for lunch. Chef Motonori, born in Japan, expatriated first to Lyon to cook alongside famous chef Christian Tetedoie before becoming the chef of Flair.

Like most restaurants in Lyon, Flair offers a three course lunch with 2 choices for each course. The lunch is 27 euros. This just amazes me that restaurants of this caliber can do this, but this is very typical of my meals in Lyon.

I add a 2 euro coffee and leave after paying my 29 euros.

I’m off to the Musée des Confluences. This is a science and anthropology musem opened in 2014. It is positioned at the confluence of the Saône and Rhoen Rivers. It is said to resemble a floating crystal cloud of stainless steel and glass.

This is a striking building. It’s quite busy with many children. On one floor there is a special exhibit: Zombis!

I think about going, but the line is long and zombies just are not at the top of my list.

The floor above is the permanent collection. There are four major exhibits: Origins, Species, Societies and Eternities. The first deals with the Big Bang theory of the universe. The second explores the link between humans and animals. The third is about how societies build communities and the last deals with the Meaning of Life. I went to all the exhibits, but I am sure it surprises no one that I like the last one the best.

In the Meaning of Life section there were 10 videos of 1 to 2 minutes long, discussing the topic from all angles: medical, philosophy, ethical, science and others. I watched and enjoyed all of them. This is one that is two minutes long if you are interested.

I went up on the roof of the building to get a shot of the confluence and also to clear my head. Going to this museum is like getting a PhD in one afternoon.

When I leave, I decide to metro up the river to check out two vintage shops I have read about.

Later I decide I need a “light” bite so I go on my block to 900 degrees, a casual Italian restaurant.

Tomorrow I am meeting a new Lyonnaise couple, courtesy of a friend’s introduction. I also still have three candidates to sample for the croissant contest and tickets in a few days to a candlelight concert. Stay tuned and thanks for following along!

Lyon Post 2: Visitors!

A new week begins with the arrival of friends from Connecticut/Lisbon. This is the third time Jim and Vince have visited me on a Shirleyfest. On each of their last visits to Shirleyfest, they made sure to arrange for a wonderful birthday celebration for me. This time is no different. My friends have selected Circle, a Michelin bib gourmand restaurant where the menu is only revealed when each course arrives. Each course is lovingly delivered, explained and paired with outstanding wines by either the owner/maître d’hôtel Agathe or the talented chef Bastian.

A muse bouche #1 : lavage. Fried corn with chipolte chili sauce and spice crumble

Amuse bouche #2 Takayuki. Potato, bacon cream, reblochon cheese

Batbout, soft French cheese with taggiasca olive oil

Fresh crab on a toasted lentil taco with lemon balm and guacachile

Cod on a bed of crispy rice with creamy broccoli purée. The second photo. Shows the dish when the yuzu kosho hollandaise sauce is poured over. It looks like a yummy marshmallow!

Trout prepared like a caillette from Drôme Valley, carrot beurre blanc and parsley and nasturtium oil

Artichoke with béarnaise emulation, capers, rocket and red currants

Pork Belly with chili and peanuts, a leek and daikon salad and caramel
juice

Finally we have dessert! Orange blossom almond ice cream, creamy date and agastache.

Photo credit Jim. He prefers to be behind the camera and not in front of it.

What a wonderful evening! It is now midnight and after one more hug, I call my uber to whisk me home.

I don’t want you to think we only ate today. When Jim and Vince arrived, I was a little early to meet them at the monument Gadagne. Just outside the building is the famous L’horloge Charvet. This clock was built in 1852 and contains Marionettes Harlequin, Polichinelle, Guignol and Gnafron. I had just enough time to capture the quarter hour show.

This site has been in use since the 1st century B.C. It has had many occupants through the Middle Ages and beyond. A wealthy banker family, the Guadagnis of Florence, occupied it during the renaissance era. Finally in the 20th century the Ville de Lyon bought the land and building and it now houses two museums: The Lyon History Museum (Le musée d’histoire de Lyon)and the Puppetry Museum (Musée des arts de la marionette). The experience is unusual in that it is mostly interactive and thematic, as opposed to chronological. We see many school children with their teachers really enjoying the experience. The puppet side of the building was extremely colorful!

The next day while Jim and Vince climb up to Croix-Rousse, I set out to see what is going on with the annual Lumière Festival which is held every October in Lyon. It is named in honor of the Lumière brothers, who invented the cinematographer motion picture system in 1895. Hollywood may be well known, but Lyon is considered the birthplace of cinema.

I arrive to find a huge crowd. Some are buying tickets, some buying merchandise and some are there to see the first movie of the festival. The festival screens 170 movies in one week.

While Michael Mann is receiving the 2025 Lumière Award (Clint Eastwood won the first award of the festival nearly 20 years ago), Sean Penn is in town this year as a Guest of Honor and will present his film Into the Wild and do Q&A with the audience.

I wasn’t there but this is from the newspaper the next day.

I’ve been to a couple of film festivals and at those festivals, new films, both mainstream, indies and documentaries are presented. Lyon’s festival was created as an homage to classic films and so most of the screenings are older, heritage films.

After enjoying the buzz of the festival tent, I decided to to go to the Musée Lumière.

The museum is in an art deco castle where the Lumière family lived.

It is fun to see the historical journey of the invention of cinematography, as well as the progress of the family over time.

I am going to the symphony tonight, but I want to go to mass at the historic 1325 Basilique Saint-Bonaventure before going home to get ready.

The stained glass windows in the church are beautiful and vivid. In 1944, the Germans blew up the bridges near the church and shattered the original stained glass windows. Between 1945 and 1965 the windows were restored and appear resolutely modern in their colors and style.

The mass is beautiful and once again very well attended. The music is particularly beautiful. Interestingly, I later learn that this huge basilique will be the site of a candlelight concert this month with the music of……Taylor Swift!

Vince, Jim and I have tickets for the symphony concert at the Auditorium-Orchestre National. The program is Grieg, Diamond and Beethoven. It is a beautiful program. I am captivated by the conductor, Jennifer Gilbert. Not only is she conducting, she plays the first violin for the program ( a 1781 Guadagnini violin!). There aren’t that many women conductors in the world and this is the first time I have seen a conductor also play an instrument in the performance. You know the expression “women have to work twice as hard as men?” I think I just saw a “classical” example of that.

After the concert, we walk about 20 minutes and have a drink at my apartment.

Then we head to Brassiere Roseaux on my street. It is a lovely restaurant and at a little before nine when we arrive it is packed. We have a great table and a wonderful dinner.

I really like this restaurant on my street and I guarantee you will see more food from here in a future post. I observed a steak tartare dish at someone’s table that I have my eyes on.

Today is Beaujolais Day!

I am going to meet Jim and Vince to head north to the Beaujolais wine region. First though, I have two things to do. I am beginning nominations for the best croissant of Lyon and I need to spread the tastings out over days.

I start today in my neighborhood.

Having gotten the first nomination out of the way, the next thing I want to do is head to the market at the river. This is the same market I went to early last week only to find it closed. Today is it bustling and everything looks fantastic.

I now wind my way over to our meeting place for the Beaujolais outing. We have a driver/guide named Almondine and along with five other visitors from all over the world, we head north. First stop is a hilltop tasting overlooking the valley. We learn that there are only two grapes in Beaujolais: Chardonnay for the white wine and Gamay for the rosé and red wine. There are very specific rules for this region. One is that the grapes must be picked by hand. There are 12 appellations with only the very southern part of the region called simply Beaujolais. Then there is a region to the north called Beaujolais-Villages and finally there are 10 regions that are considered “cru” and they are called by their village name. There is no mention of Beaujolais on their wine label.

Off we go to a restored medieval village called Oingt. All the buildings are made of “golden stones”, a limestone with high amounts of iron in the stone. This village is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Today the population is small with mostly artists living here.

We visit the church and stroll the pretty streets. Now we head to a family-owned winery called Domaine de Fond-Vieille. This winery has been in the family for hundreds of years and grows both Chardonnay and Gamey grapes. The owner ( and his dog) gives us a tour of the vines.

We go inside to the crushing, storing, aging and bottling facility and then have a nice tasting of four of the family’s wines.

This is the delightful Mareijnr from the Netherlands. I enjoyed spending time with her and talking about solo travel. I hope to see her again either during this trip or somewhere else in the world.

We drive back to lovely Lyon having had a most enjoyable day!

Another day, another nomination for best croissant. This time I try Eric Keyser which is a bakery started in Paris and famous for its baguettes.

Delicious but not as buttery and flakey as Maison Deschamp

I head to my regular coffee place to finish the croissant with a café allongé.

Today my friends Larry and Steve will be in town. I met them when they attended my workshop at Rancho La Puerta. They have been in France and England doing genealogy research. Now their Viking river boat is docked here for a couple of days. We walk together to Brasserie Georges. Started in 1836, this is the oldest brasserie in Lyon and one of the largest in Europe. It has a gorgeous art deco style . Ernest Hemingway, Jules Verne and Edith Piaf have all eaten here.

Steve suggests we start with foie gras and I think that is a terrific idea.

Grilled duck foie gras with chutney of apricots

We follow that with moules et frites and of course French wine!

One of the funniest things about this restaurant is that people go here to celebrate their birthday because at the appropriate time the lights are dimmed in the whole restaurant and the waiter runs to the table with a flaming cake. It happened at least 6 times during our meal. Here’s one of the times.

We have a wonderful time together and we agree to meet later for a special dessert.

The special dessert is Lyon’s famous Praline Brioche. I mentioned this in my previous post. It is the creation of Auguste Pralus and while many bakeries mimic the creation, the place you must buy it is at the eponymous patisserie, Pralus. The store is known for its special wrapping of the brioche like a present and its colorful striped bag. Fortunately Pralus is located on my street so I get in the line to buy it. While waiting, I film the two men churning these out (presumedly for tomorrow since the shop is about to close)

I am getting worried because it is late in the day and the pile of brioche’s are dwindling. The woman three places ahead of me buys five! Then the next man buys three. Fortunately, the young girl just ahead of me takes only one so I get mine and head for the metro.

I am standing on the busy metro with my AirPods in when Laura calls me. I tell her what I’m doing and she asks how I will cut it when I meet my friends. Without thinking I say, “I have a knife in my purse”. The circle of people around me on the crowded metro backs away! When I realize what I’ve said, I show the famous bag and say,”no no, it’s for the brioche”. Everyone starts laughing.

I meet Larry and Steve and we look around the 800 year old former hospital, hospice and maternity ward that has become the five star Hotel Grand Dieu and high end boutique shopping experience.

Before diving into the brioche, we walk over to Basilique Saint Boneventure to see the stained glass windows before it closes.

Finally we end up at a nice coffee house and we dive into the brioche. It does not disappoint. In fact, the next morning when Larry was on a walking tour, his craving overtook him and …..

The next day, I decide to find some of the many murals that Lyon is known for. There are over a 100 frescos that cover the walls in Lyon and they retrace its history.

The biggest fresco in Europe is Lyon’s La Fresque des Canuts (the silk weavers’ wall). It is a stunning troupe-l’oeil mural. It was painted on a blank wall with no windows. The realism is staggering. One of the scenes is a storefront honoring the silk workers. The mural is refreshed every so often and the latest redo was in 2013.

After studying this mural for a while, I walk toward the river to see Fresque des Lyonnaise (Famous faces of Lyon).

Here is the list of who is depicted in the mural

I decide I can walk to one more of the murals and I choose a walk along the river to La Bibliothèque de la Cité (The City Library). This depicts an immense library with hundreds of writers in different genres.

This is my favorite part because a real mailbox is located on the building next to the painted mailman.

This has taken a good part of the day and I’ve gotten many steps. That is good thing because tonight Jim, Vince and I are going to a different Bouchon restaurant.

I meet them at Bouchon des Filles. This bouchon was started 14 years ago when Isabelle and Laura, two former waitresses in the world of Bouchons Lyonnais, met at the “Café des Fédérations”. I wrote about that bouchon in my last post. They had the desire to perpetuate the tradition of Lyon mothers, and to open their “Girls” Bouchon with a more current and less caloric cuisine.

You be the judge.

I did not take photos of the cheese course or the dessert course. The dinner was delicious and perhaps a little less caloric than Café des Fédérations.

Good thing I had a long walk back to my apartment!

Annecy Day Trip

I’ve been wanting to do a day trip to Annecy, France for weeks. Nicknamed the “Pearl of the French Alps” due to its location between its huge lake and the nearby mountains. It is also called “Venice of the Alps”, because of the many canals and the Thiou river, which pass through the old part of the town. I just call it beautiful.

I set my alarm for 6 am and quickly get ready and take the metro to the Lyon Part Dieu train station.

Despite the early hour, people are streaming into the station. A piano player tries to soothe the commuters with his tunes.

The train takes two hours and passes by many lakes and mountains. It’s a very enjoyable journey.

When I arrive, I decide to walk through the old town and see the canals first.

As I always do on Shirleyfest day trips, I have made a reservation for lunch at a Michelin restaurant.

I choose the special menu of the day.

A plate of toasted bread with butter churned with the herb lovage

Carbonara made with celery instead of pasta

Plums with ice cream mixed with the herb tagette

The waiter was so nice and explained that the restaurant is committed to only using locally sourced ingredients and that all the herbs are from the chef’s garden. I leave very happy.

Now it’s time to spend time at the lake.

It is simply stunning. I have to find a way to return to Annecy. I must now make my way to the train. On the way, I stop for coffee at Adrenaline Roasters. My friend Charlotte in Lyon told me how good the coffee is there. I have a little time to discuss coffee with Sebastian before reluctantly heading home.

Jim and Vince must leave today. We have one more traditional lunch at Comptoir du Boeuf.

I say goodbye to Jim and Vince as they fly off to Portugal. I know they will come to another Shirleyfest and I will visit them in Portugal.

It is a beautiful sunny day and I have a mission to get flowers and walk in the sunshine. As I cross the bridge I see “The weight of oneself” statue on the river Saône in front of the courthouse.

It is such a beautiful statue with the sunny backdrop. At first glance, the giant marble figure almost 3 metres high appears to be a savior. But the man he holds in his arms is none other than himself. This antihero symbolises the issues of responsibility debated daily at the nearby courthouse, inviting us to reflect as well.

But onward to flowers. First stop is Place de la République.

Then I see a small stand with an elderly lady making bouquets. Her name is Juliette.

Juliette lives 50 km away on a river and comes into Lyon periodically to sell her wildflowers

This is the pretty bouquet she made for me. She stopped every few seconds to ask if I liked the colors or did I want to smell the flowers.

It is time to head home. I have to pass by the Halle de Paul Bocuse so I cut through and wouldn’t you know it…this tart citron just jumped out and insisted I buy it.

A Dutchman, an Englishman, a French woman and an American traveler (moi!) convene in Lyon tomorrow. Watch this space to see how much fun they have.

Thanks for coming along on my journey.

Lyon: Arrival Week

I’ve been living in Lyon for one week. It is hard to know where to start. Shall I tell you how beautiful, serene and livable Lyon feels? Or maybe I should tell you how it’s the first Shirleyfest city where the history and geography so boldly define the city? Or shall I talk about how in my first week, because I have an entire month and I’m not rushed, I’ve had long conversations with a multitude of interesting local people about their lives, dreams and challenges?

Let me start in the beginning.

I take the TGV to Lyon from Paris and arrive in less than 2 hours. My apartment is in the 6th arrondissement, near Lyon’s version of Central Park. The park is huge and is called Parc de la Tête d’Or. My apartment looks out on a pretty tree-lined street.

I am very happy with this apartment, with its stone walls, curving staircase and top of the line appliances. The owner has left me a bouquet of flowers to welcome me.

There is a bakery on the first floor of my building. I wake up to the smell of bread baking every morning.

As soon as I drop off my bags, I walk back to the transportation office at the train station to ask about getting a monthly metro/bus/tram/funicular pass. There is a huge line of people outside with two staff members controlling access to the inside agents. I approach one staff member and using google translate, I tell her why I am here. For some reason they usher me right in. They issue my transportation pass right on the spot.

I cannot stress too much how getting this step done on the first day is important. Having easy access to all parts of the city, without waiting for Ubers, or getting into traffic jams with taxis makes my life so easy.

Since I now have my super cool pass, I take a tram back to my apartment to get ready for dinner. I have a reservation at Café des Fédérations, one of the oldest bouchons in Lyon. It is a beautiful evening so I walk to the restaurant.

A bouchon is a type of restaurant found in Lyon that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, coq-au-vin, “salad lyonnaise”, roasted meats and many other more unusual dishes (that are parts of the animal that I usually avoid). Compared to other forms of French cooking, the dishes are quite hearty. There are approximately twenty officially certified traditional bouchons in Lyon.

It is so many courses that I lost track. Here are a few of them.

The first course is a poached egg in a red wine sauce.

Braised pork cheek with mashed potastoes

I am so full that I decide to walk home and the city is so beautiful at night.

The next day, as is my usual way, I have booked a walking tour. We meet at the Lyon Cathedral, Saint-Jean Baptiste.

This tour is being led by Paul and is mostly of Vieux Lyon, the old town.Vieux Lyon sits between Fourvière hill and the River Saône. Its Renaissance-era streets and famous traboule passageways are captivating. Lyon has been inhabited since prehistoric times and was one of the most important cities of the Roman Empire. It has always been a market town, thanks to the two rivers, the Saône and the Rhône which converge just south of the city center.

Paul explains the 30 foot tall astronomical clock in the Cathedral installed originally in 1383.

Lyon is famous for these secret passageways known as “traboules”. They are shortcuts linking streets through buildings. Lyon has over 200 in Vieux Lyon.

Inside these traboules are often circular staircases.

The Palais de justice is beautiful and significant as this is where Klaus Barbie was sentenced to life imprisonment for his war crimes during WWII.

Paul’s route passes through a huge farmer’s market on the banks of the Rhône .

When the tour ends, I walk back to the farmer’s market along the Rhône.

Tonight I’m heading to Söma, a Michelin bib restaurant in the 5th arrondissement. I have to walk across two bridges to get there but it is another beautiful evening.

It is tiny with seven tables. Camilla, my waitress/sommelier helps me chose interesting French wines to pair with each course.

Duckling and those are grapes, not olives.

I have the good fortune to sit next to Keith and Glenn from Toronto. Since they are well-traveled foodies, we find common ground and talk throughout the delicious dinner. We exchange information and I have a feeling I will see them again.

Sunday I go to mass at my nearby parish church, Saint-Joseph des Brotteaux.

It is packed, as have been all the masses I’ve attended in France. Our priest in Menlo Park told me this summer that France is experiencing exponential growth in attendance in almost all of its Catholic Churches. I am impressed with how the children at mass are so well dressed…very chic.

After mass, I walk to Les Halle de Lyon Paul Bocuse.

This is the temple of Lyonnaise gastronomy. Sixty shopkeepers and as many restaurants under one roof present the finest produce, cheese, charcuterie, seafood, and regional specialities that Lyon has to offer. It was created in 1859 and a century later renamed for the multi-starred chef and local hero Paul Bocuse.

This is the famous praline brioche of Lyon. Auguste Pragues, a lyonnaise pastry chef was so taken by a nearby rose garden that he decided to dye pralines pink and it is a signature offering of every fine patisserie in Lyon.

It is a beautiful day and after dropping off all my goodies from the market, I walk the two blocks to Parc de la Tête d’Or.

There is a botanical garden as well as a zoo in the park.

I’ve got to get a move on because I am meeting Chantal today. She is with Greeters International. I wrote to them and asked to be paired with one of the Lyon greeters and I was happy to hear back that Chantal had graciously accepted. We have a wonderful time roaming, not only all over Old Town, but we go up the funicular to Fourvière hill, where the Basilica is located.

The Basilica of Notre-Dame of Fourvière overlooks the whole city. You reach it by either climbing a steep hill or by funicular. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was built by what might be the first “crowdfunding campaign”. The people of Lyon prayed to the Virgin Mary to be saved from the plague and they were. The Virgin is also credited with saving Lyon from Prussian invasion.

Down the hill a bit from the Basilica is the Ancient Theatre of Fourvière. It was constructed in 15BC. It is impressive in how intact most of the theatre remains.

It is starting to get dark when we finally stop for a glass of wine.

I have learned so much about Lyon, but also about Chantal, who grew up in Lyon and has been a high school English teacher for many years.

Monday I have coffee at my local coffeehouse.

I want to find a botanical watercolor artist that I have read about. Fortunately I find his shop.

Vincent is delightful. I am lucky to be in his shop on a day when he is there. We discuss his work and he invites me to come see his workshop in a charming village in Provence.

Now I will go up the hill to the bohemian Croix-Rousse area to meet Bernard who is giving me a tour of this fascinating area. Lyon has been the center of the silk weaving trade for centuries and this is the area where the silk workers lived. The area is perched on a hill with panoramic views over Lyon’s rooftops. It’s a mix of gentrified areas and street graffiti.

For dinner I want to find the restaurant Nafas. It is run by Syrian refugees and even though it is tiny and quite low key, it has made it onto the list of the top 24 restaurants in Lyon. I arrive and meet Nawal, and wife and husband Nawar and Ghasan. I go outside and I am delighted to sit next to Sarah and Aaron, two locals in their twenties having a meal. Nawal asks for Sarah’s help in translating for me and after I order, Sarah asks if I want to sit with them and talk during our meal. Of course I do. We talk about food, Lyon, Paris, careers and, finding happiness through a deliberate life….it is just a wonderful time.

As you know, I always go to a movie in my host city. Tonight I go to Cinema Luminaire. I see One Battle After Another which is in original language and subtitled in French. Three hours actually pass without me noticing.

I know it is full moon tonight, so after the movie I walk to the river to see if I can capture the beautiful moon.

Today, I have an idea to find the best coffee in Lyon. It is known as Mokxa. I start walking and walking and walking. I cross back over the two rivers and go up so many staircases.

Finally I reach the top and turn left at the Ferris wheel.

Is it worth climbing 20 stories? Yes the coffee is great. Even better is my conversation with Charlotte, who is working there today. She is delightful and when I find out she is from Quebec City, I show her my blog post from when I was there. More conversation ensues along the lines of yesterday’s delightful meeting with Sarah and Aaron. I cannot tell you how fortunate I am to have the time to get to talk to people like this. It makes the trip memorable.

Tonight I am trying Les Mauvaises Herbes, a vegetarian restaurant. It is packed! I see why after my first taste of the yellow curry velouté.

Grilled cabbages, potatoes, roasted chestnuts and fresh herbs.

This morning I get up very early and take my rolling cart to the outdoor produce market on the Rhône known as Marché alimentaire Victor Augagneur. In most European towns, various outdoor markets are open on different days. I had double checked that this one was open. Guess what? It wasn’t. Maybe because it is October, but in any event, I find myself at 7:30 in the morning along the river, having traveled 30 minutes and in need of more coffee. It is fun to see the people biking to work along the river.

After finding a nearby patisserie for an espresso, I recalibrate and realize the famous cheese shop , Fromagerie les Trois Jean is only a 20 minute walk more into the 7th arrondissement. I haven’t been there yet so this is a good opportunity.

It is a terrific cheese shop and I end up buying many cheeses.

Iliana helps me choose the best French cow, sheep and goat cheeses. With those cheeses, they also sell wine that pairs well, so of course I had to buy various bottles of wine. I enjoyed talking to Iliana who let me include her picture in this post.

Once back home, I stop at the flower shop on my block and get my flowers from the shopkeeper Marie who arranges them for me.

I’ve been trying to make time to get to the Fine Arts Museum of Lyon (Musée des beaux arts de Lyon). Off I go. It is the largest museum in France outside of Paris. It is housed in a former Benedictine Convent from the 17th century. Its collection ranges from ancient Egyptian antiquities to Modern Art and even includes a fully restored beautiful chapel.

The Egyptian art, the chapel, the Degas and the Monet are all wonderful, but my favorite room is the one that contains Le Poeme de L’âme (The Poem of the Soul). These are 18 painting by Louis Janmot inspired by a poem written by the artist. The series tells of a soul’s life on earth, incarcerated in a young man, accompanied by his female double. His companion disappears and he spends the rest of his life alone, as did the artist.

The story told as you work your way through the four sides of the room is mesmerizing. I don’t want to leave, but the museum is closing.

That’s a wrap for week one. I have good friends joining me tomorrow. Stay tuned for more adventures! Thanks for following along.

Paris: The Final Days

We’ll always have Paris.” ~ Humphrey Bogart, Casablanca

“Paris is always a good idea.” ~ Audrey Hepburn, Sabrina

“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.” ~ Oscar Wilde

“There are only two places in the world where we can live happy, at home, and in Paris.” ~ Ernest Hemingway

“The chief danger about Paris is that it is such a strong stimulant.” ~ T. S. Eliot

“Paris is not a city; it’s a world.” ~ King Francis

“Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never be elegant.” ~ Honoré de Balzac

My Paris time has come to end and now I will move on to Lyon. The photos above represent just one reason I will miss Paris so much. They are from a dinner with my friends at the culinary experience known as Atica. The food, as you can see, is amazing, but the experience is unlike any other restaurant. There are only 8 tables in a large space that, every few months, Chef Ramzi Saade decides on a culture to feature. The tables are in the middle of the room and on all four large walls are projected the most beautiful images of the place chosen. In our case it was Corsica. High resolution images and videos of the sea, the mountains, the forests and the villages of Corsica project throughout the 7 course dinner. Soft sounds of the sea and birdsong from the forest are so subtle that you don’t realize until later that you never heard any conversation from the other 7 tables. It is magical.

To live in Paris for over a month is such a different experience than to come for a few days or even a week. It is also different to have come back to Paris, having been here for shorter visits many times in the past. When a person comes for the first time, or for a short period, naturally they visit all the important sites and eat at the restaurants they have read about or their friends who have also come for short visits tell them they really must try. This visit I do very little of that. I wander the various arrondissements,

I meet local friends,

I have my neighborhood hangouts,

I go to the movies,

And to the many parks.

While even Parisians regularly go to the Louvre (although usually at night or off hours), they also love the less well known museums and I do too.

Some days I’m all over town. Other days I sit in the same café all day and people watch, read and write.

My last week here has been lovely. I’ve actually experienced three seasons during my month. It was summer when I arrived, then there were days of spring with chilly rain and now it is fall.

My birthday was last week and I had many celebrations. My new friend Jill takes me to the restaurant Pristine for a great dinner.

I have a wonderful lunch at Le Chardenoux in my neighborhood.

I have elegant drinks at Le Duc de Morny Library at Le Reserve Hotel.

In between all that birthday eating, I also was so happy to go to the John Singer Sargent Exhibition at the D’Orsay Museé. He is one of my favorite painters and while he is considered one of America’s most important painters, he is still largely unknown in France until now. This month, the D’Orsay organized a huge monographic exhibition of his early works and his ties to Paris. It was lovely.

Aside from enjoying yet another birthday in a foreign country, I’ve been sampling loads of restaurants, art museums, neighborhoods and taken some interesting day trips. Let me give you a sampling of my week.

More Food:

I hear of a restaurant in the 5th arrondissement, Les Papilles, where there is no menu. The chef each days makes four courses and you get what he makes. Today he makes vichyssoise, braised veal stew, and a Sainte-Maure de Touraine cheese course. That stripe of red is the spice I mentioned in my previous post: Piment d’espelette ( I am too full to find out what he made for dessert!) Afterwards, I take my friend Louis’ suggestion and stroll down the enchanting Rue Moufftard. Turns out I find dessert after all.

Art:

I have the opportunity to do a night time visit to the Louvre with friends who are members. It is not crowded at all and there is no waiting to get in. We decide to focus on the Napoleon III Apartments. The Louvre was a palace before it was a museum. These apartments show the splendor of palace living around 1861.

Afterwards we admire the beautifully lit grounds as we walk to another outdoor art installation nearby.

Another day I take myself to the Carnavalet Museum in the Marais. This museum is dedicated to the history of Paris. It is housed in two 16th century mansions and contains furnished rooms from different periods of Paris history and Paris life. I can’t believe I have never been here as it is now one of my favorite museums.

One room had all the historical signage used to identify what was inside the shops.

I am also fortunate to see the Paul Troubetzkoy sculpture exhibit that opened September 30th. He is an iconic Italian sculptor that uses Impressionism in sculpture. He has sculpted many many famous people including the master sculptor himself: Rodin.

Of course when the weather turned beautiful again, I turn to just walking and walking and sitting in cafes.

Neigborhoods:

I spend time in the Bastille Market which goes for at least six blocks and where many chefs shop for their produce.

A big line forms for this crepe making stand in the Bastille Market

Of course I get one. Met a fun woman from Seoul, Sora, at my table also eating a crepe.

I also sit in the sun in the Tuileries.

Stroll across the bridge to get that picture of the Eiffel Tower

Nearby is the US Embassy and I usually try to take a look at our embassy in each city I visit.

Did some shopping on my street, Rue Charonne.

A different day. but I stop for yet another crepe at this cafe in my neighborhood.

I go from Boho shopping to luxury window shopping when I head over to the Champs Elysee and Rue Montaigne.

Of course you need a bar inside the store to have a drink while you are shopping for furniture

Gucci is still Gucci even if it shows up backwards

And then there is the shrine to luxury shopping: Dior.

I am early for my ticketed spot to see the Dior Exhibition so I am offered to go for coffee in their flagship store next door. Ok. Sounds good.

I ask to use their “secret” bathroom. Very posh!

Now I’m at the Dior Exhibition. It is perfectly orchestrated. Room after room about the life and clothes of Christian Dior.

Day Trips:

Fontainebleau

One day I take the train 45 minutes south and see the beautiful Chateau Fontainebleau. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is the only chateau to have been inhabited by all the monarchs from the 12th to the 19th century. Napoleon was the great restorer of Fontainebleau and ironically this is where he abdicated in 1814. I see the room where he signed the abdication papers.

I tour the gardens behind the chateau once I finish touring the chateau.

Having been to both Versailles and Fontainebleau, I much prefer Fontainebleau. It is easy to get to and quite uncrowded. Versailles is wall to wall people and you can hardly see the furnishings.

Moret Veneux-les-Sablons

This is a quaint village not too far from Fontainebleau. It is where the painter Sisley did much of his work. It has a beautiful riverfront park and ancient church. You can train here from Paris. It is quite peaceful with a town square to sit and have a drink.

Provins

Everyone I ask about a potential day trip mentions Provins. It is about an hour and 15 minutes on the train from Paris. It is an intact medieval village. The buildings date from the 12th century. I arrive late morning and walk about 10 minutes from the train station into the center of town. I see up the hill this beautiful dome.

I start walking and come first to the castle. Caesar’s Tower it is called. I pay my 5 euros and start exploring the interior of the castle.

I walk the ramparts and then come to the church called The Saint Quiriace Collegiate Church.

The interior is lovely. Joan of Arc attended mass here in 1429 with King Charles VII. The exterior of the church was never finished.

I climb back down the hill and I’m famished. I have made a reservation at Trattoria Val and I have my one and only Italian meal in France.

Tonight I have drinks with Benoit and Michele, who I met the first week I was here, at Au Cadran Voltaire in my neighborhood.

Afterwards, I walk to my favorite wine bar, Le Pure Cafe, and talk to Louisa, Antoine and Orem. I have a nice meal before walking the few blocks home.

So that my friends is some of how I spent my last week in Paris. Thanks for following along on the journey. I hope you will stay with me as I continue on to Lyon.

I love getting comments and messages on my posts!

Paris Week 3: Day Trips, Hidden Passageways and Parks

The expression that a picture is worth a thousand words always rings true to me. Let me present you a mostly pictorial description of my week 3 in Paris.

Monday: Chartres

I arrive in Chartres and because it is Monday the tourist center is closed, so no bathrooms or WiFi (Chartres gets no 5G signal). No problem. I get a coffee and croissant for 3 euros at the bar next to the cathedral and use their facilities and WiFi.

Chartres Cathedral constructed between 1194 and 1220 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and called a high point of French Gothic art, a masterpiece.

The quantity and quality of the stained glass windows are one of most distinctive features of Chartres Cathedral. There are 167 stained glass windows. Almost all of those are originals, far more than any other medieval cathedral in the world.

The ornamental stone screen with statues telling the life of Christ is breathtaking.

This labyrinth from the early 1200s is a famous feature of the cathedral. It is one of the only ones in a Gothic cathedral that was not removed when church leaders determined them to be a distraction. I have a very good audio guide which explains that they symbolized the long winding path toward salvation and unlike a maze there was only a single path that could be followed. But the path takes one in and out and back in again. Like life!

When I go on a day trip on Shirleyfest I always search ahead to see if there is a Michelin recommended restaurant in town. I’m lucky to get a table at Racines. I chose the daily special which starts with a cauliflower soup with hazelnuts, then roasted rabbit with stuffed peppers and eggplant followed by a trio of deserts (one being excellent chocolate mousse)

Chartres has more to offer than just its famous cathedral. It is a beautiful fall day so I take a stroll along the Eure River, stop by several of the museums and admire the half-timbered houses of the old town. Then I walk back to the train station and head back to Paris.

Tuesday: Hidden Passageways

It is a bit rainy so today I want to find as many of the covered passages of Paris that I can. These were built in the early 1800s. There were almost 200 of these at their peak, but many were demolished during Haussmann’s renovation of Paris. Only 25 survive and all but one is on the Right Bank.

I start at Porte Saint Denis, built in 1674 it is the first of four triumphal arches built in Paris (the last was the Arc de Triomphe built in 1836). I start winding my way through the 2nd arrondissement.

Each covered passage is different with unique shops. It is quite a logistical task to organize my hunt with an efficient route. I find about a dozen of these before I decide I have to eat lunch.

I stop at La Valentin in Passage Jouffroy in the 9th. Of course I go for the croque monsieur.

I realize I am fairly near the famous kitchen shop E. Dehillerin. This is where Julia Childs shopped when she was in Paris. Say no more! I am on my way.

The store is jam packed with everything imaginable. Each item has a 6 digit code and you have to go to this book in the store and look up the code to find the price.

Nearby is the best spice shop in Paris. I love spices. You might remember me saying in my last post that the spice Piment d’espelette is hard to find in the US. It’s a variety of chili pepper that is cultivated in the French commune of Espelette in the Basque region. I bought two bottle here.

I head home because tonight I’m going out to the suburbs to have dinner with Elena and her husband Sylvain at the restaurant Eugène Eugène.

They live near Puteaux, a pretty tree lined town. It actually reminds me a lot of Menlo Park. I take the metro and a tram and I arrive early. I walk through the downtown as I want to bring them some nice chocolates. It’s their anniversary and they asked me to join them in the celebration. I find a nice shop and make my purchase. As I turn to go the shop owner says “Attendez”! I turn around and she is holding out a lovely chocolate for me to have. It is delicious!

We eat and laugh and talk for four hours. We walk back to the tram together at midnight. Fireworks are going off. A really fun day!

Wednesday: Montmartre

Years ago on my first trip to Paris, I climbed up the steep staircase to see the beautiful Sacré-Coeue Basilica. I remember it being jammed with people. Today I plan to ease into Montmartre by starting above the Basilica and leisurely getting acquainted with this neighbor that has so much more to see than just the famous Basilica.

I start on Rue Junot, a winding street where poets and artists lived in the past. Edith Piaf rented a room on this street.

I see the Moulin de la Galette, built in 1622, which the owners used to grind the grain for the flour for their tarts.

Who knew the area had vineyards? It is maintained by the parks department and every year the wine produced is sold with the proceeds going to local charities.

I noticed this bright colored jeep coming around the corner. Then he noticed me. Oolala

Finally I am downhill to the Sacré-Coeur. Majestic. It was built in 1875 to be a spiritual balm to France when it was partially occupied by German troops.

As I stand at the downhill staircase, I meet Jill, from Melbourne. We take each other pictures and talk about people we both might know in Melbourne. It’s so much fun that we head off for a coffee together.

After coffee we go our separate ways. I want to check out the vintage stores on the side streets. We agree to meet again to have dinner together on Monday.

The shops are interesting. This area is the fabric district where designers come to shop for fabric for their collections. One last peek at the Basilica and I am down.

Tonight I eat at Orso, a neighborhood French bistro. I meet Steven, the owner who explains the menu to me. When he leaves and I’ve forgotten most of it, I just use my handy google translate. Viola!

A walk home after a beautiful day.

Thursday: Strike day in France

Oddly demonstrators in France publish way ahead of time when they are going to strike. So I knew that today was the day. This is suppose to be bigger than the one we had here on September 10. I know I can’t plan anything that takes trains or metros as they won’t be running. So I set off down my street, Rue Charonne, to see what I can find.

What I find is complete quiet in my neighborhood. No ubers, cabs, buses. It is so peaceful. I walk further and do a little shopping at the boutiques that are open.

This patisserie is considered one of Paris’ best and it’s on my street. I decide I might eat my meals backwards today. I’ll start with a pastry.

I get to the Bastille and this is where it is all happening. It is rowdy, with music and a big police presence.

I don’t want to get embroiled in this crowded mess so I walk over the Seine to the famous Berthillon ice cream shop—-the original one.

Loving this beautiful weather. I’m ignoring all these demonstrators on the bridge.

Finally ready for my main course. Pumpkin and leek velouté, jambon croquettes and wine. This is at L’Avant Comptoir du Marché. It is the newest and largest of Chef Yves Camdeborde’s establishments. Packed with people enjoying the weather and the food.

The Saint-Germain market is in the same block so I stop to shop for some things for dinner later at my apartment. I have to get up really early tomorrow to catch the train to Giverny.

Friday: Giverny

I have wanted to go to Monet’s home and gardens for the longest time. I am finally going to get there. Monet lived and painted at Giverny for 43 years. He meticulously constructed his gardens to be an inspiration for his paintings.

I am out the door at 6 am. Walking to the train. No one is one the street.

I take the metro to the train station. Then the train to Vernon-Giverny.

When I arrive there is a little street train boarding people to take them to Monet’s home and garden. Fortunately I’ve done my homework and know to not take that , but instead take the bus around the corner. It is much faster and nicer.

There is no limit to the number of beautiful photos I could post of this place. It is incredible. I also take a tour of his home. He designed the house for his own taste and kept adapting it to his personal and professional life.

After a bite in the tree-shaded cafe in the village, I reverse my steps and make it back to Paris. Tonight I try a wine bar in the 2nd called Aux Deux Amis.

A very lively place with good wine and small plates.

Saturday: Versailles Musical Fountains

Not every thing always goes as smooth as my trip to Giverny went yesterday. Today’s supposedly simple outing was less smooth. This is the last Saturday for me to be able to see the fountains at Versailles sprouting to the rhythm of baroque music. I buy my ticket in advance and I watch the YouTube video of the performance in anticipation. I check the weather. Nice, no rain in the forecast. I decide to wear a dress—after all I’m going to a palace. I go outside and I feel a few sprinkles. No problem. I’ll just grab my lightweight short rain jacket with a hood. I don’t need my longer raincoat or an umbrella. I train out to Versaille and when I come out of the station…it is pouring. No Ubers or taxis available. I jump on the bus thinking that’s better than walking. It goes the opposite way. I get off, cross the street. Try again for taxis or uber. Nope. Get back on the bus gong the right way. Walk the 15 minutes from the bus stop to the gardens. I’m pretty soaked.

Now I’m in the garden, fountains are not spewing and music is not playing. I get a hot chocolate and the rain tapers off. Finally the music comes on at a roar and the fountains do their dancing. I enjoy it for sure, but I would have enjoyed it more with a dry outfit.

A little hard to hear the beautiful music but it was playing.

One nice thing that happened on this excursion is that I was crossing over to take the train and my hood was barely keeping me dry. A nice man walks up to me and motioned that I should share his umbrella. We walked for about 10 minutes under his umbrella in silence before I asked him if he is a local.”Oh no, I work at Netflix in LA”, he says.

Gotta laugh!

I go home at the end of the day and decide to stay in with some nice French cheeses, baguette and French wine.

Sunday: Brunch, Church, More Monets and a Park

I’ve been seeing the name Holybelly pop up a lot as a great breakfast spot. I go at 9am and I am quickly seated. What a surprise. It is a fun place run by Australians with a great menu and delicious coffee.

When I leave the line is around the block.

I am near Saint Ambrose church and I know there is an 11:00 am mass so I head over there.

While I know the order of the mass, the homily is of course in French. I tried something this Sunday that worked pretty well. I put google translate on and as I sat there, pushed the microphone and the priests words were translated and printed on the screen in front of me. I am really impressed with the attendance at mass. These are locals for the most part and the church is packed.

After mass I head out to the 16th arrondissement. I walked through the Bois de Boulogne to the Musee Marmottan Monet.

This museum houses the world’s biggest collection of works by Monet. It is in a magnificent townhouse with preserved European decor. Monet’s son, Michael donated his father’s works to the museum.

This painting is called Impression, Sunrise. Monet painted it from his hotel room in Le Havre.This work is what inspired critics to start using the word “Impressionism” to define the group formed by Monet and his friends.

After reluctantly leaving the museum (they were closing), I decided to check out Jardin Des Plantes. This is a beautiful park with a zoo, museum, botanical garden and cafes. What a treasure to have this right in the middle of the city.

I cross back over the Seine and think what an amazing week this has been in Paris.

Paris Week 2: Lovely locals, amazing art

Monday: I take the metro out to Cafe Kleber to meet Elena, a friend of Nick and Ivan’s. In our text to set up the meeting, she says, “ I may come with my little darling”. “Daughter”, I say? “Sausage dog”, she replies. They arrive via e-bike with Rita, her cute dog, in the front in a custom made carrier. We have coffee and get to know each other, all the while Elena instructing the men at the table next to us to send their smoke in the opposite direction. Elena works at Insead, a prestigious global business school that is part of the grandé école, which is similar to the Ivy League in the US and Oxbridge in the UK. Elena is wonderful and after coffee and conversation we decide we are going to spend much more time together while I am in Paris. She rides off with Rita.

I wander over to the Trocadéro just across the street. Named in honor of the Battle of Trocadéro in 1823, it is now most famously known as the ideal place to take pictures of the Eiffel Tower without being at the Eiffel Tower. I snap a few myself before walking across the Seine to Le Bon Marché, one of the world’s first department store.

Le Bon Marché is now owned by the luxury brand LVMH. I browse the store, but what I am really interested in is the Food Hall occupying the entire floor of one of the buildings. It is similar to Harrod’s Food Hall and just as crazy, with people stocking up on food to take on the plane and also enjoying the restaurants or buying things to eat at home.

After I try a few of the food items myself, I see that I’m not too far from the 13th century Church of Saint-Sulpice, so I walk there. Along the way I stop in at Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, as well an interesting shop called Popelini that sells cream puffs of all variety.

I enjoy the splendor of the third largest church in Paris. It is the church that baptized the Marquis de Sade, where Victor Hugo got married and where the funeral mass for Jacques Chirac, the former President of France took place.

What’s a few more steps when I’ve been wanting to see Rue Cler. It is touted as one of the best market streets in Paris. I try to see that, and it does have a nice cheese shop, but honestly I like my neighborhood in the 11th much better.

Back in my neighborhood, I opt for Louie Louie, another Laura great find. It’s Neopolitan style pizza and owned by a family from Naples. I sit at the bar and talk to the bartender who is named…Louie (he quickly points out he is not an owner).

Tuesday: Elena and I are meeting at the Musée d’ Art Moderne de Paris in the 16th. I love modern art and this museum is excellent. There is a mural by Raoul Duffy installed in an oval room that is breathtaking. It is called The Spirit of Electricity. He researched everything related to electricity: technical and historical works, biographies of scientists, correspondence with scientists of the time to update his knowledge. The mural includes 108 scientists from Antiquity to the present day.

The museum also has a sculpture by one of my favorite French artists, Louise Bourgeois.

We decide to have lunch on the patio at the restaurant Bambino after seeing the rest of the museum. Our table has a view of the Eiffel Tower of course.

We ate so healthy at lunch that Elena takes me to her favorite patisserie, Cyril Lignac, for a treat. Incredible.

Elena bikes off and I make a brief stop at the Musee de la Mode de la Ville (Fashion Museum) before walking down the Avenue des Champs-Élysées to the Petit Palais.

There I find more beautiful art, including an antique book sculpture.

I’m meeting more new friends tonight so I must head home. First I stop at a local patisserie to buy a hostess gift for my new friends to be. I’m going to the home of Benoit and Michelle. They are the parents of Mathias who I met a few months ago when I was on a walking tour in London. He will be there as well. It is just a short walk from my apartment. They live on a cute quiet street and as I approach they call to me from the their balcony.

Up I go and we have the best time. Michele works for the non-profit associated with Patagonia and Benoit works in strategy for French national transportation. They are curious about me and I them and we get along very well. We enjoy champagne to toast Mathias’ graduation from college a month ago.

Wednesday: Elena and I were going to meet today but she is concerned about the demonstrations that are called for all over the city so she asks to postpone our meeting. Of course I agree. It gives me the opportunity to go to Canal Saint-Martin. I jump on the Metro and get off at Place de la Republique. There is a bakery there that I must go to near the Canal.

I start walking from the metro stop and see I have a text from Elena. “If you go out don’t go anywhere near Place de la Republique as that is the heart of the demonstrations.” Oops. I’m already here and I don’t see much going on. I love the shops in the area as I walk towards the bakery, Du Pain Et Des Idees. It is in a shop from the 1800’s with a gorgeous ceiling.

I arrive and it is amazing. I choose two things: The Tarte Fine Aux Figues and the Boeuf Fume Chèvre Frais Piment d’Esplette. One sweet and one savory. I love the spice Piment d’Esplette and it is hard to find in the US.

These are so so good. Still warm. I get a cafe allongé to have with the pastries and I am in heaven. I walk back to the metro at Place de la Republique and I can see more of the demonstrators’ action. But to be fair, these are French food-loving people, so I also see two men pushing a cart to make crepes for the demonstrators.

I head to the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene (also called la Madeleine). It was planned by Louis XV as the focal point to the new Place Louis XV, the present Place de la Concorde. It has an exterior design that looks like a Greek temple. Inside it is magnificent. There is a dome that depicts the History of Christianity. As I am looking around I see daily mass is about to start so I stay for mass and it is lovely.

After church I stop by the Ritz hotel (trés chic) for a coffee. Less chic but more tasty is the special sandwich I have at Le Petit Vendôme.

I have a special dinner reservation tonight at a new restaurant in the 20th called Dandelion. It is the creation of two famous chefs that left their big name places to collaborate on this new venture. I walk there in the rain and find tidy white walls, opaline suspension lamps and a buffed cement floor. A sophisticated menu is presented by very friendly staff. The sommelier helps me choose a wine as I contemplate my choices. I choose a starter of corn and crab in a harissa sauce. It is amazing.

Before the next course a couple with their college age son sits next to me. The husband gets up and takes the menu to the window squinting mightily. I’ve been there. He’s forgotten his readers. He seems frustrated as he goes to sit back down. I hold up my readers (3.0!) and offer them to him. He is so happy! I tell him I have ordered so he can take them to his table. He couldn’t thank me enough.

Here comes my main course. It is trout with stracciatella and charred cabbage in a tomato butter broth. Again…amazing!!!

I walk home with my umbrella very happy.

Thursday: I am meeting another Parisian today. He is Louis who used to live in Palo Alto. Our daughters, Laura and Ines, were born 10 days apart. I haven’t seen Louis in over 15 years. We meet in the Marais and have a lovely lunch. It is like we saw each other yesterday. I forgot to take a picture of us together so here is a picture of our two girls the year they were born. Obviously the one with the Louis XIV collar is French.

After leaving Louis, I go to Place des Vosages to view some art galleries.

Then I head home, as tonight I am going the Paris Philharmonic. The Paris Philharmonic is in the Greater Paris Metropolis, founded a decade ago by the French Parliament. The project to build up this far eastern area of Paris stalled for a while, but was revitalized with the coming of the Olympics and has brought development, vitality and housing to this area. The Paris Philharmonic was designed by architect Jean Nouvel and is a 2,400 seat concert hall. 1.5 million people attend the Philharmonic annually. Compare that to Davis Symphony Hall in San Francisco with a 2,700 seat capacity and an annual attendance of 300,000. Parisians love the arts!

I leave home with enough time before the performance for a bite at Café de las Musique.

I’m siting at a communal table when two ladies join. They are from Vienna and they fly to wherever the conductor we are seeing tonight presents. They are in awe of him. He is pretty amazing actually. Klaus Mäkelä, from Finland. Twenty nine years old. At twenty-one he conducted the Swedish Radio Symphony Orchestra and by twenty four he was the chief conductor of the Oslo Symphony. He is the director of the Orchestre de Paris. In 2027 he will become the music director of the Chicago Symphony. I ask these ladies if they will fly to Chicago to see him, “But of Course”!

It is a beautiful building and I find that I have a front row seat overlooking the percussion group as well as a clear view of Klaus conducting. I am so lucky!

The program is wonderful. The featured piece is “An American in Paris” by George Gershwin. I tell everyone how nice it is that this big organization has welcomed me to Paris with this choice.

I enjoy myself so much. I take the metro home and it is after midnight.

Friday: I have to get up early as I have secured a spot on the tour of the Paris Opera House (Palais Garnier). Virginia is our guide and she is funny and knowledgeable. She tells us the main auditorium is closed for some repairs and that is too bad. But…as we start up the beautiful staircase a man comes and whispers in her ear. She smiles and said she has permission to take us in. So glad, as it is beautiful.

It opened in 1875 and it is huge. 450 dancers can be on stage at once. Virginia shows us where ladies had to sit because they all wore large hats and no one wanted them to sit and block their views.

Now I must get across town to the Neuilly-sur-Seine area as I am meeting Elena at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. But first, I want to get a crepe at the well regarded Cafe Breizh. The crepe is square with a pat of butter and I devour it.

The Fondation Louis Vuitton is in an extraordinary building designed by Frank Gehry. It opened in 2014 as an art center and is sponsored by LVMH. It cost 800 million euros to build, an overrun of 700 million euros.

We take a tour of the building and then we are invited to do an immersive VR experience. We are game so we put the glasses on and find ourselves all over the building, on the roof, leaning over the edges and in general inhabiting this amazing a structure.

Tonight I will try the restaurant Camille. I walk there about 30 minutes and I’m glad I reserved ahead because it’s packed. The waiters are very sweet and explain a few of the choices. I go with the sea bass cooked in an olive and tomato sauce accompanied by a cold glass of Chablis.

Saturday: I have read about the best boeuf bourguignon being at Chez Réne. I have been wanting to have this dish for two weeks. Today is the day. I walk there to get exercise as it is across the Seine. I am seated at a nice table and I notice every person in the busy restaurant is French. This is a good sign. People are ordering so many things: Beef tartare, sardines, onion soup, frisée salads. But I want what I came for so I stick to my plan. The very professional waiter first brings me a little crock of a cheese dip and crackers.

I say I want the boeuf bourguignon and he says then you must have a glass of red wine. Well ok if you insist. It comes to a side table and the waiter scoops a lot of it into a bowl and then brings me the bowl and the rest of the crock. Oh my!

I pass on dessert. C’est tout! I meet the man having lunch on my right. He is French and has just gotten off a plane from Brazil. This is where he comes first. I see why.

I leave quite satisfied and stroll through this lovely neighborhood. I know from my research that the best baguettes in Paris are sold nearby as well as a well regarded cheese shop. I visit both and make purchases thinking I will eat in tonight.

As I cross the river, I decide to pay a visit to La Samaritain. This is another luxury department store located right on the Seine and you guessed it—-it is also owned by LVMH. The one smart thing I do is go to the perfume department and have then spray some fragrances I like on business card size paper. I keep those in my purse as they come in handy sometimes on a crowded Metro ride where personal hygiene is not uniform.

It is starting to rain so I head home. At 6:13 I realize there is a 6:30 mass at Church of Saint-Germain de Charonne. It is a mile away but if Iget out the door immediately I will make it. I do! The church bells are ringing as I run up the steps. It is a beautiful small mass.

Afterwards I stop in a bookstore on my way home and then a wine shop. After all, I have that cheese waiting for me and it needs some good wine.

Sunday: It is a rainy day so it is perfect for the museums I still want to see. I start with the Picasso museum. The audio guide is very helpful. The museum is three floors and has an enormous collection. It is not crowded at all which I am surprised at given the weather.

I know that between the Picasso and my next museum is supposedly a fantastic falafel place. It is called L’As Du Fallafel . I go by and there is a long line to eat in the crowded little place. But they have a take away window and the All Saints store across the street has a little covered patio and a bench. So I order to go at the outside window. It is delicious.

My next museum is the European Phtography Museum. They are having an exhibit of Marie-Laure de Decker. She is one of my favorites as she photographed in dangerous situations, but from a human level. The room of her Vietnam photos is particularly captivating. She has a series of portraits from Chad that I love as well. It is all just so compelling.

I am all museumed out so I head home as I am having a coffee with Mathias shortly.

We meet at Au Cadron Voltaire, a local cafe.

We sit outside at a little table. I really enjoy getting the perspective over a coffee of new friends in my host country and we have such a wide ranging conversation. I am really going to miss this terrace culture when I leave. Every block in Paris is full of cafes with outdoor tables. It’s Paris’ version of a pub, but outdoors. People are just having a coffee, drinking a glass of wine and some are eating. I do not understand why we don’t have this in San Francisco. In SF there are a few tables out in a few neighborhoods, but by and large those are restaurants and you don’t sit and have a coffee. We have just as a good a climate as Paris. It puzzles me.

Mathias is off to his parent’s home in Lille tomorrow so I hope to see him when he returns. He starts a new job in the UK in October and he will be a huge success.

Tomorrow I am taking my first day trip…to Chartres. Stay tuned!

Paris: Week 1

Bonjour mes amis! I leave for Paris on Air France on September 1 for Shirleyfest #15 and arrive Tuesday September 2nd.

I uber quickly to my new home in the 11th arrondissement. It is a vibrant, residential neighborhood filled with with Parisians taking their children to school, running for the bus, strolling to the cafés. I like my apartment very much and the neighbors are really friendly.

Now I must start walking to avoid jet lag! I immediately find my “first place in the morning” cafe, “On Partage.” I walk into this lovely coffeehouse on my block and Marion greets me warmly. The coffee is wonderful and all the people working there make me feel right at home. I wisely hold off on the pastries and order a healthy option.

After a coffee, I walk for miles getting to renew my love of this beautiful city. I stroll through three arrondissements on the right bank before crossing the Seine and exploring the left bank. I am almost home when I come a cross Le Pure Cafe, which beckons me for a glass of wine and some nourishment.

France and Poland are playing basketball on the tv behind the bar. I meet Antoine, Anita and Sebastian and now I have my “last place at night” place. After dinner, many miles on my feet and 30+ hours since I left home, I finally turn in for my first night in Paris.

Wednesday: First thing first. I have to buy my monthly metro card. It is the one thing that makes traipsing all over the city a breeze. Charonne is my station on the 9 line so I go there and I am lucky to get a patient attendant to make my card. Voila!

I know I want to buy an annual membership to the D’Orsay Museum and the L’Orangerie. I set off for the museum ticket office.

I like having an annual membership because then I can go every day for an hour and actually enjoy the museums. Also I like providing support for the arts in my host city. The water lilies at the L’Orangerie never disappoint.

At the D’Orsay, I head for Van Gough’s Starry Night and say hello before eating at the museum’s cafe under the famous clock.

If you get the right vantage point, you can catch a glimpse of Sacré Coeur through the clock. After the museums, I wander the left bank, browsing the lovely shops and after a while stop at Gérard Mulot, a famous patisserie for a pain aux raisin and café allongé ( basically an Americano).

It is difficult to not indulge in even more of their beautiful wares, but I reluctantly leave.

I head home just before a rain shower that lasts all of 5 minutes before blue skies arrive and out I go again.

This time I go to the 2nd where I check out the area known as Montorgueil. It is an off-the-beaten path pedestrian area in the heart of Paris.

I spy many historic homes, cheese shops and brasserie-bars. Then I see it. Stohrer’s!

It is the oldest patisserie in Paris, founded in 1730 by King Louis XV’s pastry chef, Nicolas Stohrer. Nicolas invented rum baba, the Chiboust cream tart and the puit d’amour. This last one I learned from the shopkeeper was the pastry the king would send to his mistress as a signal he wanted to rendezvous with her. I have my own love affair with this beautiful pastry and now I’m off for home.

Thursday: Today Laura arrives for a quick visit. She is like me and wants to start walking as soon as she arrives so we head off down Rue Voltaire. We stop in at Paperboy for coffee and admire their sandwiches, but it is too early for that! We walk to Marché des Enfants Rouge. This oldest covered market in Paris dates back to the 17th century and gets it name from a nearby orphanage founded in 1534. The children were dressed in red, a color symbolizing Christian charity, hence the name.

We shop there and then visit 134 RDT, which won the award for the best croissant in Paris and which happens to be across the street from Jacques Genin, the chef turned famous chocolatier. It is climate-controlled and it is like entering a goldsmith’s shop.

We find some lovely home stores before completing our walk back home. We stop for lunch at a local café called Belle Equipe and meet hilarious waiter Gregory.

Tonight we head to OOBATZ for dinner. It is one of the most talked about new restaurants in Paris and it is pizza! Laura had this on her radar and got in the queue for a reservations minutes after our dates opened up. It was delicious, minimilist decor, great food and attentive service.

Friday (Laura’s second and last day): We start to do a walking tour and then thought a better use of our time would be shopping.

We head to the left bank and enter the world of French beauty products known as Aroma Zone. Just to demonstrate the popularity of this store, in France the brand sells a hyaluronic acid serum every 10 seconds. Exhausted from shopping we get baguettes of jamon and fromage and sit in the Luxembourg Gardens for a picnic.

Crossing back over to the right bank, we do more shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple which houses the competitor to La Labo perfume, Perfumer H, conceived by Lyn Harris,a British perfumer trained in Grasse. We also stop in Laïze-Sainte-Avoye, a Taiwanese beautiful tea/coffee house for tea and delicious lemon cake.

We visit a wine shop and secure a natural wine which we take home for happy hour while we get ready for dinner. Dinner tonight is at Mezetiere in the Marais and it is delicious.

Afterwards we take a walk through this gorgeous neighborhood.

There is still time to jump on the metro and take it out to view the sparkling Eiffel Tower.

Saturday:Laura has been here less than 48 hours and now she is flying back to New York. I will miss her energy and her systematic way of finding the coolest places in a city she barely knows.

After I wave goodbye, I head for a hike along Paris’ inspiration for New York’s Highline, the Coulée Verte. It is a beautiful fall day and I do the entire length. There are ivy covered arches and elegant rooftops as I walk through the breezy path.

I then join my San Francisco friend, Patrick, at the St Regis for a coffee and a little browsing on I’Île Saint- Louis.

Patrick is staying at our friend Bob’s gorgeous apartment on the Seine and that evening I am delighted to attend a cocktail party there. It is a terrific party with such fun guests. While sipping champagne, eating pâté and French cheeses and gazing at the river views, I start to wonder how I can possibly live in Paris full time. A memorable evening!

Sunday: There is an open air market, Rue Ponchlet, near the Arc de Triumph that I’m looking forward to seeing. It is near an English speaking Catholic Church and I have the idea that I might go to mass there. My timing is off for that, so I go directly to the market. It is rowdy in a good way and people are buying up the produce and flowers excitedly.

I buy my provisions and go to Parc Monceau for lunch at the carousel.

Afterwards I walk to the famous Père-Lachaise cemetery. I have studied a map and I am proud to say that in this enormous place I found Jim Morrison’s grave easily.

I then explore the rest of the less famous graves, like Proust’s.

Later I set out for Notre Dame. I have an idea to at least get in to hear vespers and hopefully mass. I am amazed that while the line to view the newly renovated cathedral is long, there is no one online for vespers.

I go right in and I have a seat in the front row. It is beautiful eveningsong and prayers and the church looks spectacular. I ask if I can stay in my seat for the mass which follows and I am told “but of course”. The mass is presided over by a bishop and at least 20 priests. I can’t take pictures during mass, of course, so I patiently wait to do this afterwards. Of course the mass is in French, but I can follow pretty well. It is breathtaking to be there and experience Notre Dame in this fashion.

I walk the 40 minutes home in a lovely trance. Of course I stop at Le Pure Cafe, my last place at night bar, for a glass of Chablis and I toast my first week in Paris!

Tomorrow morning, I am excited to meet Elena, a friend of Nick and Ivan’s who lives in Paris. Stay tuned.

Une Poire Sucrée

And in English…a sweet pear! I think you’ll find my Shirleyfest 2025 just that!

This year I’ll be taking on two cities in two months.

Paris is well…PARIS. Known as the City of Lights it is one of Europe’s most enduring cities. From the Eiffel Tower to the Arc de Triomphe to the newly reopened Notre Dame, the landmarks abound. Couple that with exquisite food and artistic treasures housed in numerous excellent museums, you can see why I’ve decided to spend a Shirleyfest month roaming the streets of this iconic city. While I’ve been to Paris several times, it has been a while since my last visit. Here’s a snap of Laura and me on an earlier visit. So now I will return and give a Shirleyfest whirl to Paris!

Lyon you may be less familiar with. It’s France’s third largest city and is a city of culture, history and business.

It’s located at the crossroads of Europe and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lyon is known as the capital of French gastronomy and is internationally recognised for its cultural events such as the Festival of Lights and its Contemporary Art Biennale. I think it will impress me like Bologna did in 2022. You can hopefully look forward to many pictures of me enjoying the bouchons of Lyon. What are bouchons? They are places that serve traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, coq-au-vin, “salade lyonnaise”, or roast pork. Compared to other forms of French cooking, the dishes are quite hearty. Apparently there are approximately twenty officially certified traditional bouchons in Lyon, but a larger number of establishments describe themselves using the term. I’ll let you know!

As always, if you have any travel tips for me or if you know anyone living in either of these two citues, please leave me a comment here on this site or contact me directly at shirleyfesttime@gmail.com.

Last Lisbon Post: 36 Hours in Aveiro/Coimbra and Goodbye Lisbon

I have 72 hours left in Lisbon. I decide to mimic the New York Times and do a “36 hours in…..” trip. But where? Good friends Nick and Ivan to the rescue. They suggest lunch in Aveiro and then head to Coimbra. Why not! In the morning there is a Alfa Pendular train (fast train) from Lisbon to Aveiro going 220km/hr and so it only takes 2 hours.

Aveiro, on the west coast, is known as the Venice of Portugal, because it is set on a lagoon. Not gondolas, but barcos moliceiros, that long ago were used to transport salt and seaweed from the nearby sandbanks, now ferry people up and down the river.

I get up very early and am at the Oriente train station as the sun comes up.

Here comes the train.

In no time, I arrive at the Aveiro train station, the original 1864 portion of which has been lovingly restored. The tiles (azulejos) depict traditional regional scenes and I am lucky to arrive as the sun shows them off beautifully.

I hop in an uber and head for the Museum of Averio, which was created in 1458 and is housed in the old Convent of Jesus of the Dominican Order. Joanna, the daughter of King Afonso entered this house in 1472. No one else is there and I stroll at leisure though the exhibits. I am struck by a baroque chapel which has been painstakingly preserved.

The tiles which are the hallmark of Portugal are also on display.

Afterwards, I head to the huge city park known as the Parque Infante D. Pedro. It is so peaceful amidst the urban bustle of the city.

Now to see those Portuguese gondoliers! I head for the lagoon and I am not disappointed. The boats are gliding down the river.

I need to glide down the adjoining streets to my Michelin restaurant, Salpoente. The restaurant is in a building created from two former salt warehouses and it is elegant and tranquil. I am so impressed with the quality of the decor and the professionalism of the servers. With their assistance, I decide on a starter of diced salmon and strawberries with dollops of burrata. It comes as a ring of lusciousness in a most unusual dish, with an avocado mousse in the center.

I pair my meal with a nice glass of red from the Douro Valley and await my next course.

I want to stay and sample many more things, but my train to Coimbra awaits. Again it is the fast train so it only takes 25 minutes. The train rolls quickly along with the clouds.

I arrive and after an 8 minute uber ride, we pull up to the beautiful Quinta das Lágrimas. #quintadaslagrimas https://www.quintadaslagrimas.pt/en/

The lobby is busy, but the staff is so agreeable. I am offered a lovely glass of juice and the General Manager, Pedro, asks my name and assures me they will be with me quickly. I am soon ushered to a desk where Tânia begins the check in process. I had reserved a garden suite and I am delighted to learn that I have been upgraded to the Pedro and Inês suite. Tânia takes me to my room and tells me the story of Pedro and Inês.

When he was heir to the throne, Pedro fell in love with Inês de Castro, lady-in-waiting to his wife Constanza. His father, King Afonso IV, banished Inês from the court, but when his wife died, Pedro immediately sent for her. They lived together for ten years and she bore him four children and they secretly married. The king grew alarmed at the power Inês had over the young Prince Pedro and in 1355 Inês was murdered by a group of Portuguese noblemen. Pedro swore that his beloved Inês would one day become his queen. When Pedro ascended to the throne in 1357, he inflicted vengeance on those who had murdered his wife and took the corpse of Inês from its tomb to do it honor, hereby beginning the curious tale of the “queen after death”. He proceeded to dress her corpse in royal robes, sat her upright on the throne and, as king, had the power to force all the courtiers and nobles present to pay homage to her crowned corpse and kiss her decomposing hand. Pedro arranged that after his death they would be together in magnificent 14th-century tombs in Alcobaça, with the inscription “Until the end of the world”. Pedro had planned it so that their first sight upon opening their eyes on Judgement Day would be of each other.

I excitedly get my first glimpse at this romantic suite. Oh wow, it is superb!

A bottle of Portuguese liquor and the local famous pastries, Pastéis de Tentugal, have been left as treats.

I’ll enjoy the treats later as now I will do a walk about the lower part of Coimbra. Coimbra is the former capital of Portugal. While the capital was moved to Lisbon in the 13th century, today Coimbra remains a beautiful and important city and is beyond a doubt worth a visit. If Averio is the Venice of Portugal, Coimbra is the Cambridge/Oxford of Portugal because of its famous university. I cross over the bridge spanning the Mondego River and find myself strolling down the stone walkways.

It is a gorgeous evening and I hear fado music playing in one of the local coffee houses. In Coimbra, unlike Lisbon, fado is sung by men and instead of melancholy music it is more poetic. I stop for a while and listen.

Back at the hotel, I get ready for dinner. I will be eating in the hotel’s Gastropub. The food is amazing and when I ask for the wine list, I see their best white wine is called Pedro e Inês. Meant to be!

The next morning a beautiful breakfast buffet is set up and the grounds are such an inviting place to enjoy breakfast. I particularly like this one local bread called Escarpiada.

To save time, since I only have today, I uber to the university which is at the highest point in Coimbra. Founded in 1290, today the university is divided into eight different faculties (Letters, Law, Medicine, Sciences & Technology, Pharmacy, Economics, Psychology & Education Sciences and Sports Sciences & Physical Education), comprising about 25,000 students. It is the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese speaking world. Apart from attracting many European and international students, the university is visited by many for its monuments and history. Its historical buildings were classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2013.

I start at the Nuevo Church, check out the Chem Building, and visit the old Church.

I then head straight to the National Museum Machado de Castro when it opens.

It is pretty amazing. In the basement is th ancient Roman cryptoporticus from 400 A.D. Basically, it is a subterranean gallery and it is exquisite.

Tearing myself away from the underground, I wander though the rest of the museum. The highlight for me is the 1534 French terracotta sculptures representing the Last Supper. Simply amazing.

Afterwards I stroll though campus. Groups of students in black capes are singing in groups. Two students were particularly charming!

I visit several other historic sites before I reluctantly leave the city and walk back across the footbridge to my lovely hotel.

After checkout, I decide to have lunch in the garden before my train. A three course beautiful meal with all the wine you would like, vegetables and fruits fresh from the hotel garden, along with the freshest seafood is all delicious (and costs 26 euros).

I am so surprised when the waiter brings me a bag and says “A gift from the hotel”. Inside is the hotel’s gorgeous cookbook.

Let me just say this hotel has got my vote for top hotel experience in quite some time! It does usually come down to people and the Quinta Das Lágrimas has an excellent staff. As my readers know, I have done full interviews with Hotel General Managers and Chief Concierges. While I didn’t get to do that here, I spent a fair amount of time talking with Pedro Ribeira, the General Manager and Tânia Sabino, a rising star in this hotel group. I wish every hotel I stayed at had the dedication, professionalism and warmth of these two wonderful people. They were kind enough to let me take a photo of them before I left.

I take the fast train back to Lisbon and the next day I am sad realizing it is my last day in Lisbon for a while. I visit my old haunts and snap some pictures.

I meet Catarina near the Saint Magdalena Church and we enjoy breakfast together. I will miss this new friend very much.

I attend one last mass in Lisbon and surprisingly the priest calls all the September birthdays up to the altar and does a special blessing for us. So sweet!

I get home to finish packing and when Ivan returns from Barcelona he comes over for pizza, wine and conversation. I will miss Ivan and Nick greatly. I can’t wait to see them again somewhere in the world.

After Ivan leaves, I am finishing my packing when I look at my shoes which I have worn on quite a few walks about Lisbon. This is what I see!

I have actually worn out a new pair of New Balance shoes! After throwing them in the garbage, I look at my health app on my phone and see that during my time in LisbonI have walked 1,152,000 steps and climbed 1,200 floors. Walked over a million steps and climbed the equivalent of scaling all 10 of the tallest buildings in the world. I need a rest!

The next morning, I wave goodbye to my apartment. I will miss my lovely home of two months. I uber to the airport as the sun comes up.

As I fly out of Lisbon, I see the Vasco de Gamma bridge and it twinkles as it says “See you again soon Shirley”.

Thanks for spending time with me in Lisbon. I’ll let you know what my next adventure will be!

Lisbon post 7: Celebrations, Cinema and Cemitérios

[I love to hear from my readers. Recently, WordPress has had some difficulty with the comment section appearing below the post. They just informed me that if you click on the post title to read the post in a “single post” view, the comment section will load at the bottom of the post and you will be able to leave a comment at the end of the post without signing in. I tried it and it works. Yeah! Back to seeing comments!]

The secret to youth? If your birthday is celebrated away from home, you get the party, but not the added year! It’s just like travel calories. They stay on foreign soil when you leave the country. So I have been able to avoid 14 years of aging in my 14 Shirleyfests and left thousands of calories in 14 different cities. Try it!

My sister MJ arrives on Wednesday. She has made it to 12 of the 14 Shirleyfests which makes me very happy. After a long flight, I know just what she needs…..a long walk…uphill. Off we go, stopping for lunch at Taberna da Rua das Flores for some very fresh seafood.

A few more hills and miles and I let her rest before we head out to Mercearia da Século for a delicious dinner. Fernanda is there, but her husband Paulo is in Italy helping immigrants get settled in their new country. Her daughter fills in and we have a delightful dinner followed by, of course, gelato on the walk home.

But why go to bed before I show MJ my little wine bar. The guys are as usual quite welcoming and so ends the first day of MJ’s visit to Shirleyfest.

Thursday, after coffee at Copenhagen Coffee Labs, we take the train to Cacais. Little did we know the adventures that would await us. While touring the art galleries in Cacais, we come across the Saltão Gallery where we talk to a man wrapping art for shipping. Glancing at a coffee table book nearby, we suddenly realize from the picture on the cover that he is the artist, Néliio Saltão! He is delightful! I love his art and I love his joyous nature. Before long he is pouring us the classic Portuguese drink Ginja! #neliosaltaoart

Just then we get a text from my friend Catarina who we had hoped to meet for lunch. She has reserved for us at Furnas do Guincho a little way out of the town center. We Uber there and arrive at this stunning restaurant right on the water.

Many courses, many desserts and many hours later we think we will return to Cacais and train back to Lisbon.

But Catarina asks if we had seen the Boca do Inferno. We have not. Off we go walking along the ocean. First we come to a hidden enclave of little shops called Casa da Gaia.

Afterwards, we walk further and we arrive at “the mouth of hell”, which is a breathtaking natural wonder. The dramatic coastal cliffs, sculpted by the power of the Atlantic Ocean, create a mesmerizing spectacle of waves crashing against the rocks. This rugged beauty, combined with the deep chasm and the powerful sound of the sea, gives us a sense of awe and reverence for nature’s raw power. The view from Boca do Inferno is spectacular. The endless expanse of the ocean, the interplay of light on the water, and the sheer cliffs are just magnificent.

We stay awhile and then reluctantly leave and walk to Cacais where we say goodbye to Catarina and train back to Lisbon.

Friday we walk all over beautiful Lisbon.

For lunch, I am bound and determined to take MJ to O Velho Eurico. Careful readers will note that if I do that, it will be my third lunch there in 10 days. We show up and the chef smiles broadly. “You really like my food, don’t you”? he says. Yes, I do and we proceed to show him how much by ordering many courses. Several of the staff have gotten to know me and stop by to say hello.

Later that day we explore the area above Belém known as Restelo. It is a neighborhood filled with embassies and beautiful big homes.

We head from there to the Museum of Contemporary Art, followed by dinner at Este Oeste.

Of course I have to show MJ the monuments of Belém lit up at night. It is a beautiful evening.

At 8:50pm we realize that the famous Pastéis de Belém is closing at 9pm and we are all the way over by the water. Not to be deterred, we race to the store to find them just about to close. It’s only 8:58 pm we say! Ok, they let us in and we get those warm pastries and are as happy as if we had gotten gold bullion instead of golden pastries.

Saturday we explored the Rato neighborhood because we have scored a lunch reservation at the award winning Forno d’Oro. This place consistently is awarded the Pizza Versace Napolitana Award, which is essentially a Michelin star for pizzerias. I must admit I come into the place biased, because the other award winning pizza restaurant is of course my favorite, Tony’s, in North Beach in San Francisco. This restaurant is beautiful and sparkling.

The most impressive feature though is the golden mosaic oven which is burning brightly.

We decide to make this our big meal of the day and go for a delicious pizza and a pasta and of course a nice bottle of rosè.

You think we could resist dessert, but we can’t.

To walk off this wonderful lunch, we stroll down Avenida da Liberdade and visit the high end fashion shops. When that wears us out, we stop for tea at the beautiful 138 Liberdade Hotel.

We are very good that evening and go to my neighborhood vegetarian restaurant Senhor Uva where my friends kindly fit us in without a reservation.

Sunday I go back to Church of Saint Mary Magdalena for mass and afterwards we wander about the lower part of Lisbon, stopping for lunch at my favorite rooftop, Hotel Chiado.

That evening involves a stroll though the Principe Real area followed by dinner at Decadente.

I love the location of this restaurant with the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara in front of it. We enjoy being serenaded there before the walk down the hill home.

Monday is my birthday. What a day! First breakfast at The Folks where we are given flowers to celebrate.

Then a stroll along the river at Parque das Nações so MJ can see the Vasco da Gama bridge.

On impulse we ride the overhead tram before getting lunch at Time Out market and buying flowers from one of the 8 historic flower vendors at Mercado da Ribeira.

A bit of a rest at home before the serious partying starts. We start with rosé on Nick and Ivan’s balcony.

Then we Uber across the “Golden Gate Bridge”.

We walk into Casa Reîa and it is unbelievable. Right on the sand, beautiful furnishings and lighting and the sun just starting to set.

Champagne, oysters, whole local fish and Wagu steak all make for a festive evening.

Then we get to the birthday cake which Ivan has made and brought to the restaurant. It’s a sky high apple cake.

Speaking of sky, when we finish, we take the ferry back to Lisbon and look at the night sky from the ferry. Magical.

But still not done….we run into my friends who run Senhor Uva on the way home and even though they are closing, they decide to let us in and another bottle of champagne appears and two more plates of dessert, with candles! My favorite part is Adrian decides to DJ and gets me to tell him my favorite songs. It truly was the best birthday!

MJ must leave the next day. Each trip I go to the cinema in my host city to compare and contrast. With my partner-in-crime departing, today is the day. I take the Metro quite a few stops away and emerge to a rainy Lisbon.

This is the first day it has rained since I came. Google maps says this cinema is close by, but I walk all around a huge shopping complex and only find it because I see a giant IMAX sign in the sky.

I go for a Pierce Brosnan movie that here is called Jogo Assassino, which translates to “Killer Game”. In the states, this movie is called Fast Charlie. Tickets are $7 which is a new low among my 14 Shirleyfests. Concessions are also inexpensive, but like every other cinema I have sampled, the sizes of popcorn are huge.The main thing I notice is the preview commercials. In Kyoto I was surprised that the only two kinds of preview commercials were for cosmetic surgery and a video about how they will criminally prosecute you if you video tape the movie. Here its all car commercials…BMWs, Audis, Mercedes.

The movie was entertaining, but hardly Oscar material. When I emerge I see I am in an enormous in-door shopping arcade called Columbo. One wing is all shoes, one wing is Spanish designers, one wing is every kind of restaurant imaginable and so on.

I look it up later and learn there are 50 restaurants, 300 shop and it is the biggest shopping mall of the Iberian Peninsula.

The highlight of the day though is that Ivan cooked dinner for me at his place. Delicious “Black pork” with a mustard sauce, potatoes and spinach.

There are two famous cemeteries that I have yet to visit in Lisbon. First is the British Cemetery. It is very close to my apartment and has an Anglican Church, St. George, on the property. After strolling around the graves (the most famous is Henry Fielding who wrote the novel Tom Jones), I try to enter the church.

It is locked, so I am about to give up when a lady with a cane is slowly coming up the long driveway. She says she is here to open the church, but she is late because “some fool has blocked the driveway.” She is the priest! Her name is Fran and she is from New York originally, but has lived in Lisbon many years. She had a big job in corporate America before switching gears and turning to the the Anglican priesthood. She lets me into the sacristy and proceeds to get her robes and vestments on, all the while telling me about the church, the cemetary, her life and her favorite things to do in Lisbon. I really enjoy talking to her.

I had such luck with this cemetery that I walk off to find the Prazeres cemetary. It is considered one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. It is the resting place for many famous personalities, including Prime Ministers and Presidents of Portugal. Poets, novelists and the “Queen of Fado” are all buried here. It is exclusively made up of mausoleums. It reminds me quite a bit of Recoleta Cemetary in Buenos Aires where Evita Peron is buried.

I end the evening at my favorite rooftop bar, Hotel Chiado. A light dinner and I head home.

Tomorrow I leave early as I’m taking the fast train, Alfa Pendular. I am excited because it reaches speeds of 220 km/hr. Stay tuned for one last post from Portugal about 36 hours in Averio and Coimbra. You won’t want to miss it as Coimbra is one of Portugal’s most beautiful cities.

Thanks for reading!

Post 6: Visitors, Viewpoints and Viaducts

I love sharing things with you on my blog and sometimes my escapades don’t leave me with much time for writing. I’m about to embark on several days of escapades with my sister, who right now is in a cab coming from the airport to visit me. Let me try to catch you up on the highlights of this past week before it all melds into this week’s new adventures.

Monday:

I find a great new coffeehouse nearby called Albi.

It is run by an Australian/Brazilian couple named Fernanda and Julian.

It’s only been open two months, but is clearly the place to be.

Waiting for a table, I meet Martijn, CEO of Bnberry, a cool company that works with Airbnb,VRBO and other lodging partners on specific aspects of their business model. He’s Dutch, but he set up the company here in Lisbon 6 years ago. Because tables are scarce, we end up sitting together for about an hour chatting. I’m sure I will see him again this trip.

Another highlight of Monday is dinner at Nick and Ivan’s place. Gorgeous food, conversation and views and I get to meet Jane, Nick’s sister visiting from London.

Tuesday:

Catarina by some miracle gets us a lunch reservations at O Velho Eurico. This old restaurant is a place of pilgrimage, with the lines and sold out reservations for weeks to prove it. The chef is young cook Zé Paulo Rocha, part of a new generation of Lisbon’s rising chefs, who have worked to move the dining scene forward, marrying traditional items with a hint of modernity. I get there early and learn Catarina will be delayed. Fortunately Ze Paulo is putting out the staff meal on an outside table. I get to talk with him and he tells me about the dishes.

The crowd grows outside and all are eager to eat at this remarkable place.

It’s on the way to São Jorge Castle and it appears on an unassuming corner as if by providence, a cozy pit stop to replenish your energy to finish the climb up. I get my table and start ordering to cover for Catarina’s delay. She whizzes in, turning heads, and whatever on the menu I have not ordered she orders. It is a feast!

I need to finish this feast, because I’m taking my new friends Susanna and Annemarie on a long tour of every Miradouro in Lisbon led by Ricardo Santos. You probably read on one of my earlier blogs that I did this myself a few weeks ago. I enjoyed it so much I decide to to share it with my friends and ask a professional guide to lead us to see if I missed anything doing it on my own. Fasten your seat belts! Here we go

We start with Miradouro Santa Catarina

Next Elevador de Bica

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcantar

A stop at the church of São Rocco

Covento do Carmo

Elevador de Santa Justa

Miradouro do Chao do Loureiro

Miradouro das Portas do Sol

Miradouro de Santa Luzia

Miradouro da Graça

Miradouro da Sephora do Monte

What a day! I look at my watch and it says 30,478 steps and 52 floors.

Wednesday:

I am taking a train to Évora. Évora is an old Roman trading town and there still stands an impressive Roman ruin, one of the best preserved on the Iberian peninsula. Arriving at the Évora train station, I walk about 15 – 20 minutes into the city centre. All points of interest are within a 10 minute walk of each other, which makes getting around on foot the optimal choice for navigating the tiny alleyways and streets. One thing of note though, Évora is the hottest city in Portugal temperature wise. It is in the Alentejo region of Portugal, also known for fantastic wines.

You can climb to the roof of the cathedral, which I do. It is beautiful and windy.

To the surprise of no one, prior to leaving home, I snag a lunch reservation at the Michelin restaurant Dom Joaquin in Évora. I am fortunate to sit next to Raquel and Sam, a Portuguese couple on holiday. They are so kind and share tastes of their lunch choices with me. We are three foodies having a great lunch “together”.

After lunch I must see the Chapel of the Bones. It is known as Capela dos Ossos and the walls are covered and decorated with human skulls and bones. It was built to convey the message of temporariness and fragility of human life. It was built by Franciscan Friars and it is estimated there are 5,000 corpses that were exhumed to cover the walls. The bones which came from ordinary people who were buried in Évora’s medieval cemeteries are arranged in a variety of patterns. Above the entrance is a sign saying “We bones are here, for yours we wait.” I know! So creepy! Glad I didn’t see this before lunch.

I must say I thought about those bones the entire way back on the train.

Thursday:

Back to Coffehouse Albi for some more writing and my friends come into tonight from Vienna so I am getting organized for their visit. I met Arno in the Naschmarkt in Vienna on my birthday in 2017. I was shopping and Arno helped me talk to the shopkeeper. We hit it off so well and the following year I stayed with him and his family in the Dolomites prior to Shirleyfest Amsterdam. Their family joined me at Shirleyfest Bologna in 2022. Their girls were only 5 and 7 when I met them and now they are teenagers!

In the Dolomites the year after Shirleyfest Vienna

Friday:

We meet at A Brasileira to fuel the children.

Next we tour around many of the important Lisbon spots. Suddenly lo and behold we are passing O Velho Eurico. Do I dare? Yes I must. I go talk to the chef and tell him we are 5 people without reservation. He says, “you must love my food, as you are back so soon.” “Well yes I do….any chance of fitting us in?” “Stay here”, he says “ and we will definitely try”. Score we are in! Or rather out. We have a nice table under the trees and once again we order the whole menu.

In the afternoon, the girls whiz off to my fancy nail place to get their first professional manicures.

A little break before we meet back up at the Food Temple and eat delicious vegetarian food out on the steps. It is truly a gorgeous evening and so much fun to be sitting here sharing a meal with my friends.

Saturday:

I’ve organized a tour of Belém for everyone. What a surprise when our tour guide just cuts the enormous line at Pastéis de Belém and comes out with the beautiful tarts for everyone.

Everyone enjoys the tour and after lunch at the cultural center, we tram back to Lisbon central.

We meet later at my apartment for drinks. And then we head to Decadente for a multi-course meal.

Later we adults hit the rooftop bar at Hotel Chiado.

At midnight, I’m catching the Metro home very happy with our lovely day.

Sunday:

I go to mass at Church of our Lady of the Loreto of the Italians, a church built at the outer perimeter of Lisbon in 1676.

We only have time for one more activity with my Viennese friends so we pick riding the tram ride around the city.

Afterwards, off go my wonderful friends on a flight back to Vienna. I hope to see them on next year’s Shirleyfest or maybe even a visit from them to California next summer

Monday:

My friend Linda arrives. I met Linda in Shirleyfest Melbourne and what luck that she is touring around Portugal while I am here. We meet for coffee and plan out our day. We walk through Time Out market where I examine the Aperol spritz options for later. We end up at Taberna da Rua da Flora for a seafood lunch. It was so so good!

Linda has the good idea of a boat ride on the Tagus River. It is such a warm day that this is the ideal activity.

Later, we have dinner at Tasca de Esquina, a highly rated restaurant with a celebrity chef, near my apartment.

The restaurant is beautiful and the food perfectly prepared, yet even with those two things I cannot recommend this restaurant for 3 reasons. The servers were apparently having some internal tiff and in every action their unhappiness was obvious. The tables are fairly close together and I’m afraid this restaurant must have been featured in an American magazine or food blog recently, because all the other tables were populated with Americans and unfortunately for us….very loud speaking Americans. Finally when our bill came there were many items on it we had not ordered. We of course pointed this out and they took off those items, but I’ve eaten out at dozens of restaurants in Lisbon and this is the first time this happen to me. Too many great restaurants to consider going here again.

After dinner, Linda ubers off and I stop by Pinot Bar for a nightcap and a look at the beautiful moon before heading home to bed.

Tuesday:

I like to try things I do at home in my host city. Today I am getting a facial. It’s a lovely treatment room and many many steps and I am so happy with my facial. It was a 90 minute complete professional facial and guess what….it was 60 euros. Unbelievable!

Since I’ve skipped both breakfast and lunch and I spy Versailles, a famous pastry and gelato shop near my spa, I decide gelato is the perfect lunch.

Later I take myself and my new facial out to Belém as I am going to a concert at the Centro Cultural de Belem. At this late hour, Belém is magic. All the tour buses are gone and the place is serene.

I meet Ivan and Nick for a rooftop dinner first at Este Oeste.

The concert is Mahler’s 8th symphony. This is a large scale work with a huge choir and a huge orchestra. It is in two parts and the theme of the piece is being saved through the power of love. It is said that this symphony expresses confidence of the eternal human spirit. As an optimist, I’m a fan of this! It is so enjoyable.

Afterwards in the night we walk along the water and see the Belém monuments lit up by the moon, stopping for tea at a hotel on the water. We uber home very happy.

And that is wrap for another week of Shirleyfest. As usual I appreciate you coming along on my journey. Stay tuned!!

September Surprises: Good…and Bad

The first month in my new city it is like I am dating the city. I am getting to know it and see how I relate to it and it to me. Then, magically, as the second month begins, I am no longer dating…I am falling in love with my city. Every time! Lisbon is so easy to love.

I return from the Douro Valley on September 2 ready to get started on my second glorious month in Lisbon. If you read my last post, you know it was a wonderful trip with a minor footnote that the second day in the Douro, I was stung by a bee. No biggie..right? No biggie unless you are one of the people who develop the rare complication called Bee Serum Sickness. Yup. I am that rare person. Before you read on—don’t be alarmed. I’m pretty much back to normal now. But let’s get the bad out of the way quickly so we can get to the good.

Whenever I go on a Shirleyfest, I always find out from locals where is the best private clinic and hospital. I learned that lesson many Shirleyfests ago in Melbourne when I picked out of a phone book a very respectable sounding hospital called Royal Melbourne Hospital. Unfortunately, they misdiagnosed a broken pelvis that I had suffered in a fall. Turns out that was not the best hospital in Melbourne, despite the name. So now I always check before I leave home. Here in Lisbon it was unanimous among my friends: Cuf Tejo is the best place to go.

Fortunately, my good friend Ivan accompanies me, because it is quite a system to get seen by a doctor. He speaks perfect Portuguese and it all works out. Sorta….I am properly diagnosed and given a prescription for various pills which Ivan helps me get at the pharmacy. Unfortunately, my case is so severe that the pills are not sufficient. Back I go to the hospital 3 days later. I’m so proud of myself that I am working the system alone, until my doctor becomes quite concerned and insists that I go to another floor and be seen by a specialist…immediately.

I did less good with solo navigation on that, but ultimately it works out and 11 new pills are prescribed. I go back to the same pharmacist who remembers me and fills everything.

That’s the end of the September Surprises: Bad

Now September Surprises: Good

Not to be deterred by a rare illness, I decide to forge ahead and discover new hidden gems in Lisbon this week. I find many!

Wednesday: I walk through Estrela Park to stroll the neighborhood known as Lapa. Pastel colored buildings, chic design stores and abandoned embassies all gather together.

At the end of the road to the river stands the Museum National de Arte Antiga (The National Museum of Ancient Art). Founded in 1884, with 40,000 items spanning a vast collection, it is one of the most visited museums in Portugal. It is housed in a stunning building that was the former residence of the Marquis of Pombal. I decide to have lunch in their beautiful restaurant that has a patio overlooking the river and their Golden Gate Bridge.

Then I start roaming. Paintings, ceramics, gold and silver are all carefully displayed.

I stand and watch reconstruction being done on one painting for a long time.

I ask one of the guards what is her favorite work in the museum. “Oh, Inferno”, she says quickly. I find the painting and I must say, it wouldn’t be my favorite, but it was compelling!

Since I am out, I decide to try a trick I read about in the New York Times. All the tourist want to ride the 28E tram which makes a big circle around Lisbon. NYT mentioned that the 12E does the same thing and practically no one knows this and so it is very uncrowded. Let’s see.

Here is the big line to get on the Tram 28E.

Turns out the the venerable New York Times is right. The 12E is empty. I love my ride on the 12E.

Enough running around for now, I see that my favorite place Dear Breakfast is still open, so I head there for an iced coffee and fruit bowl. Ahhhh.

Thursday: There is a pastry shop called Casa San Miguel that calls itself “National Gastronic Archeology”. It is in the Alfama district and it is basically a living museum of Portuguese pastries.

All the regional pastries of Portugal are on display in a jewel box of a display case. I head over early in the morning as I know it gets crowded as people wake up. I talk with the owner who explains some of the different ways the Portuguese regions make their pastries. Everything here is made in-house from carefully guarded recipes.

I start with a coffee and the Travesseiro pastry from Sintra.

I have no willpower and leave with a box of three other pastries: The Pastel borallo (chickpeas, lemon and cinnamon), Pastel nata Lisboa (their own recipe—less sweet than other places) and the Bolinho de Tamara (date ball).

I need to walk! I decide to walk to Belém along the water. It is a very very long walk. I love the views along the way. (I can’t go entirely along the water but I do mostly).

Now I want to go to the Contemporary Art Museum in Belém. It is called MAC/CCB.

This museum does one of the best jobs I have ever seen of conveying what was going in history at the time the art was being created. It is remarkable that after a long time in the museum, I feel I have taken a crash course in both history and art! A lot of my favorite artists are on display and I learn of artists I didn’t know before.

Tonight I have a reservation at Mercairia do Sécola. This tiny restaurant is run by Paulo and Fernanda, husband and wife, devoted to the rustic comfort food of Portugal.

My friend, Catarina, joins me. We start with the traditional dried tuna with salad, orange, almond and toasted bread with tomatoes. Paulo pours a green wine that goes perfectly with the dish.

Next, Catarina chooses the marinated rabbit, cabbage and chestnuts and bacon and sweet potatoes.

I pick the octopus in olive oil with sweet potatoes and greens. Paulo chooses for us a red wine from the Douro.

We are not greedy and split one dessert.

Catarina says this as close to her grandmother’s food as she has ever had in Portugal.

Friday: Friday morning I am not well so it is the day I have to back to the hospital, which I have described above. The good news is that once I finish all that, Ivan and I head to the Atlantic Ocean. We drive to Praia Grande (Big Beach). It is a glorious day and there is a surfing contest going on.

Ivan has reserved at Bar do Fundo and we enjoy fish caught nearby and grilled and then fillet to perfection.

Saturday: Today I head across the river to meet a new friend, Karin. The ferry boat leaves form Belém and is an 8 minute beautiful ride across the water.

Karin works at the Dutch embassy and lives with her family in Costa do Caparica. This is a beautiful seaside town. Another new friend, Annemarie, visiting from Holland, joins us and for a while, Daniel, Karin’s son stays with us. We go for coffee at the neighborhood kiosk before strolling on the beach.

Then Karin suggests a forest hike to another beach. Off we go trudging through the forest, until we come to another beautiful beach.

Of course there is a darling restaurant just waiting for us to have a nice salad.

It is amazing that three people who did not know each other at all can have so much in common and so much to talk about. I take the 4:00 pm boat back to my side of the river with Annemarie and we agree to meet up later in the week.

Tonight I have no dinner reservation, so I decide to walk up to this pretty street near my apartment and see what happens. I am standing outside the Michelin restaurant Tapisco when the maître d’ notices me. I ask if there is any possibility for me to eat there without a reservation tonight. “But of course,” he says, “you must.” The night turns into a party as I am seated first next to Sam from London, a self-professed foodie and we dissect all the dishes and ingredients together. We order some delicious items.

Then on my right comes John and Patrick, a wonderful father and son from the US. John is keen to start something like Shirleyfest with his wife in the next year, so of course we talk for a long time about the philosophy of that. Patrick is off to race Formula race cars in the morning in another part of Portugal and he shows us videos of his racing which terrifies and thrills me. As I pay my bill, the manager, Bruno, tells me that since I live nearby, I must come back often and try all the things I didn’t get to tonight. Ok…I will!

And please do not judge me for stopping at the artisanal gelato shop afterwards. It was a long walk back home.

Sunday: I want to go to the English mass at The Church of the Madalena, a historic church originally constructed in 1164. First though, I decide to walk to the rooftop Lumi for coffee. It is difficult to figure out how to get access, but I do and then I see a man who is also confused so I help him. When I get there, the staff says the place is now closed, except if you are staying at the hotel associated with the restaurant. My good luck, my new friend, Jeff, that I helped with the elevator, is staying there! He asks me to join him and we have coffee and a great conversation before I take off for mass. The views from Lumi are wonderful.

I am so glad I went to this mass. It is September 8, the birthday of the Virgin Mary, so the priest gives everyone a candle and then we go up and place them in front of her.

The church is packed with regulars and they have a full and robust musical group of parishioners, which is just wonderful. Afterwards, I want to try out this lunch spot I read about called Chapitô a mesa. It is super cool with wonderful views.

I talk to the manager, Felipe, who after I finish takes me up to a panoramic restaurant they also operate that is open for dinner. He invites me to come back some night to enjoy their dinner and magnificent view. I will. I stroll though my neighborhood park where a little Sunday market is happening.

Nick is back from London today, so we agree to meet at our local wine bar, Pinot Bar de Vinho. I get to hear about his interesting, cultural experiences in London in the past week. I love the friendly staff at Pinot Bar, Jens and David. We enjoy some light courses and call it a day.

So my week back from the Douro was filled with hidden gems waiting for me to uncover them. I think there are plenty more September treasures to be found. I hope you follow along with me as I excavate for them.

Post 4: Dear Douro Valley, thank you!

On Friday, I head to the Douro Valley with friends Nick and Ivan. It is the first trip there for all of us and we have booked the Vintage House Hotel in Pinhão, thanks to a recommendation from my Montreal Shirleyfest friends, Bennet and Bonnie.

Living near Sonoma and Napa wine regions, I’ve always wanted to see the Douro Valley wine region. It is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world.

Our car trip from Lisbon takes us first to the little town of Coimbra.

Coimbra is the Cambridge of Portugal — the home of its most venerable university. The university’s highlight is King João’s Library, one of Europe’s best surviving Baroque libraries, displaying 40,000 books in 18th-century splendor.

The doorkeeper locks the door at every opportunity to keep the humidity out of this 300-year-old temple of thought. The interior is all wood. Even the “marble” on the arches is painted wood, since real marble would add to the humidity. The resident bats — who live in the building, but not the library itself — are well cared for and appreciated. They eat insects, providing a chemical-free way of protecting the books.

Before visiting the library we have a wonderful lunch in the courtyard of Sapientia Hotel and have our first pours of wine from the region.

After lunch, we get our allotted 15 minutes with a small number of people in the library. It is beyond impressive. After that, we visit the palace.

And now we hit the road to Pinhão.

We reach our hotel in Pinhão around 7:30 pm and enjoy dinner on the patio. The air is delightful. It reminds me of Hawaii with the palm trees and the water.

Of course the Douro River is the eye popping beautiful feature of this region. The Douro River carved deep valleys out of the land and then wine growers transformed the mountains into soil and walls and planted vines. Terraces were built to expose the vines to the rays of the sun which give the grapes the warmth that the wine craves. People think of Douro Valley for wonderful ports, which is true, but the region also has amazing whites, reds and rosés.

The next morning we enjoy a boat cruise on the Douro River.

We enjoy it so much, we plan to take the train into Peso da Regua and then take another boat trip upstream back to our hotel. We have a cute local train ride to Peso da Regua.

Before checking out boat options, we find that we are steps away, after alighting the train, from a beautiful restaurant called Castas E Pratos.

We enjoy lunch, then walk to get boat tickets. To our surprise, no boats are running because a helicopter has crashed into the Douro River. It is a tragedy, as 5 firefighters returning from an assignment were killed in the crash. Portugal has declared a day of mourning. The river at that point is quarantined for retrieval purposes. An extremely sad and shocking turn of events.

We return via train to our hotel.

An outing at the pool is relaxing until I get stung by a “vicious” bee. Actually the hotel was quite nice with ice and medical cream immediately supplied.

It did not deter us heading out at night to Casa Do Arco for an amazing dinner. Our taxi drives up and up and up and soon we are overlooking the whole valley.

The husband and wife team of Ana and Marco present us with an amazing well-paced dinner, paired with exquisite wines from the region. There are only 4 tables in this restaurant. We feel so lucky to be there.

The next day we are up for hiking and decide to hike up to Quinto do Seixo (home to Sandemans, a well known winery).

We reach our destination and find we are the only people there.

We have an outdoor tasting and enjoy the private attention.

Later we have lunch on their patio before returning to the hotel.

At the hotel we are able to arrange a second boat trip. The weather is fine as we enjoy two more hours on the water.

After the boat trip, I decide to take advantage of the hotel’s offer of a port tasting at Quinta da Roêda (Croft Port).

The story of this winery is quite convoluted, as it begins in York, England in 1588. They now consider themselves the most distinguished of all Port houses since they are the oldest firm still active today. As I take a seat on the patio, I find myself with Andreas educating me on the various vintage and aged ports as well as their newest offer…port tonic.

Apparently millennials are not drinking much port wine, but do like cocktails, so Croft has recently come out with this product combining tonic and pink port. They give me a can to take home. I’ll try it and let you know how it is. Meanwhile I enjoy the traditional tasting.

Returning to the hotel, we decide to walk to our dinner at Quinto da Rosa Vinho (Cozinha da Clara). It is a gorgeous evening and the walk whets our appetites.

It is a modern looking restaurant with a beautiful terrace over the river. A delicious meal ensues.

We order 3 different desserts to have on the terrace.

We walk home happily in the dark.

Monday after breakfast we drive to a lookout point and I am so glad we do. I will let the photos from there speak for how amazing the views are.

Our return to Lisbon is punctuated by a visit to the marvelous town of Óbidos.

Óbidos is a charming medieval village. The quaint village dates back to Portugal’s Celtic period, and was later taken over by the Romans in the 1st century AD. The Moors took it over in the 8th century, and finally Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, conquered it in 1149. King Dinis and Queen Isabel spent their honeymoon in Óbidos in 1282, and the king ended up giving her the entire town as a wedding gift. The walls surrounding the village today were built in the 1300s, and although they were partly damaged in an earthquake in 1755, they were completely restored in the early 20th century. Óbidos was actually an important port at one time, but the river silted up in the 16th century construction of monuments, such as the landmark aqueduct. Now it sits as a pretty little village welcoming many happy visitors. We walked the ramparts which is not for the faint of heart!

With one last coffee and gelato we wave goodbye to Óbidos and head back to lovely Lisbon. I highly recommend a visit to the Douro Valley. I really like where we stayed. My room had a patio overlooking the river and because it was on the ground floor you could just walk out onto the promenade and stroll along the river. I thought the Douro Valley would be similar to other wine regions I have visited. It is not. It is much more about the geography and the history and the river than the actual wineries, even though they are beautiful with amazing wines. Do yourself a favor and head there at the next opportunity.

Once again thanks for reading along!

Lisbon: Post 3…….Serendipity

I’ve been back from Oslo for a week and the word that most describes this week is “serendipity”. The thing I like most about spending weeks on end in one city is that serendipity can happen because you have time to let it happen.

I go out early for my morning walk and today I decide to walk to Monsanto Park. It’s about 4 miles round trip and there seems to be plenty of hiking trails. I follow Google maps and I do manage to get there, but it was not the route I expect. I follow some historic streets for a while.

Then I find myself at a busy highway with gas stations. After a while I return to a path and I am able to hike in the beautiful park.

I am almost back to my apartment, when I stop to look at the window of something I’ve noticed numerous times, called “The Social Club.” Gosh..a social club..how can I join that?

I am peering at the toy cars in the window, when a man walks out. “May I speak English”, I ask him. Yes, please, he says with a smile. “What is this place?”, I ask.

From that one question ensues the most delightful conversation with Gary Strashoon, the owner. Turns out he is lovingly restoring this old building to make it into a cool speakeasy bar.

He owns a farm outside of Lisbon and grows lavender which he sells to florists.

Such serendipity meeting Gary. He tells me his own serendipity story about having someone like me admiring his toy cars in the window with a little boy in hand. Gary graciously allows the little boy to pick out a toy to keep and then finds out the dad is the well known graffiti artist Bisco Smith. Bisco Smith then agrees to do the art work on the interior of the bar. Gary and I talk for quite a while about his plans and I am sure I will meet up with him and his dog, Doggo, again during my stay.

Serendipity today and also serendipity on the my first day back from Oslo. I meet up with Susanna, who Nick and Ivan have introduced me to. She has a great idea of meeting out at Parque das Noções. I haven’t been there this trip and it is a beautiful day.

The Vasco da Gama bridge glitters in the sunlight. It spans the Tagus River. It is the second longest bridge in Europe, after the Crimean Bridge, and the longest one in the EU. It was built to alleviate the congestion on Lisbon’s Golden Gate Bridge (25 of April Bridge). There is a newish hotel right on the waterfront and for 10 euros you can take the lift 35 floors up to the top, which we do. Wonderful views.

After a lunch along the waterway, we go to the Tile museum ( Museu Nacional do Azulejo). This museum is one of the most important of Portugal’s museums because it only contains Azulejo (tile), an artistic expression that differentiates Portuguese culture, and also because of the uniqueness of the building in which the Museum is set, former Madre de Deus Convent, founded in 1509 by Queen D. Leonor. Its collections allow a journey through the history of tile, from 15th century until the present days.

Going here is a beautiful way to appreciate something unique to Portugal. Such a delightful day with my new friend Susanna.

But wait. There is more. I get home about 7:30pm and decide to just go a few doors up to the sushi restaurant on my block. It is too late for me to start preparing dinner at home. There are only two ladies in the restaurant and I am put at a table by myself next to them.

The waitress vetos my idea of Japanese beer and insist I try their sake……many sake tastings later…I am undecided. One of the ladies, Flavia, tells me her favorite and she, her wife Iona, and I start to talk. They are fascinating, formerly from Brazil, and working remotely out of Lisbon. They are curious about Shirleyfest so I fill them in. By then a man from Germany, Tom, has arrived as well as two Brazilian ladies, Vivian and Ana. They hear us talking and say “we would like to join your conversation”. A lovely multi-country conversation happens spontaneously. Serendipity.

Other fun things this past week.

One day I decide to try to see most of the famous miroudores (overlooks) of Lisbon in one day. I start with the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte because it is the highest viewpoint in the city. It provides the widest views of Lisbon, with the Tagus to the west. It’s also less crowded , as the climb up Calle Senhora do Monteor the Damasceno Monteirosteps is really tough! I had to climb straight up for 30 minutes.

When I get there I see that most of the people looking out have come up via tuk-tuk.

It got easier after that. Next I walk to Miradouro das Porto do Sol, followed by Miradouro Santa Luzia and Miradouro Graça.

After all that walking, I stop for lunch at Union, an empanada restaurant. I enjoy a Portuguese beer (or two?). I also meet a lovely family from Paris and the father is quite encouraging on where I might rent for a Shirleyfest in Paris.

After lunch some more walking and shopping as I want to get coffee at the famous A Brazileira Coffee House and also stop by the “Pink Street.”

Before meeting my friend for dinner I stop at the last Miradouro on my list Miradouro de Santa Catarina. It is just getting dark so I grab a glass of wine and watch the sun start to set.

That night, Catarina and I try out Decadente, a Portuguese restaurant that bills itself as “unique modern Portuguese eatery – youthful, decadent & democratic – led by our fire and smoke heritage and inspired by our mercantile history.” The waiter also tells me that they strive for zero waste: all ingredients are completely used either in the dish or for making broths and sauces. We have a great dinner followed by joining the crowd at their rooftop bar to see the moon rise over Miradouro San Pedro de Alcantara.

The next day I do a walking tour of Belém with Claudia. Near the mouth of the River Tagus, Belém is the site of maritime legends, the birthplace of the pastel de nata (custard tart) and home of some of Portugal’s most important museums and galleries. It was from here in the 15th century that explorer Vasco da Gama set sail for India, returning with treasures that ultimately helped establish Portugal as a global power.

I want to do this walking tour today because from Belém it is about a 25 minute walk along the water to Darwin Cafe where I am meeting friends from California that have moved to Portugal. My walk near sunset is perfect.

We enjoy a lovely dinner and I learn a lot about their 4 year retirement to Portugal.

The next day I take the train to Sintra. Sintra is one of the wealthiest municipalities in both Portugal and the Iberian Peninsula as a whole. It is home to one of the largest foreign expatriate communities along the Portuguese Riviera, and consistently ranks as one of the best places to live in Portugal. But to me, Sintra is famous for its castles. When I was here last with Laura we visited the Peña Palace which was the ultimate in 19th century romanticism style architecture. I skipped seeing it again and instead strolled through town.

The town is quite popular at the moment and super crowded. I make my way to a restaurant recommended by Catarina called Incomum. I have the traditional black pork dish and a salad. Lovely.

On the train ride home, I realize I can get off the train midway and go to the National Palace at Queluz. It is simply beautiful with enormous gardens. For those of you who love horses, the Portuguese School of Equestrian Art remains headquartered in the palace gardens. In order to foster the study of this art and the regular training of riders, it is here that Portugal established the only national library dedicated exclusively to Equestrian Art.

Back home, I am looking forward it dinner at Casa Nepalesa, an Indian restaurant. First tho, I manage to get my nails done at a salon Susanna had found for me. Very posh. They bring you hot Brazialian bread and coffee while you relax.

Last night Catarina and I try Food Temple. It is a vegan restaurant in the Mouraria district.Mouraria literally means “Moorish quarter.” It was where the Moors who weren’t slaughtered when King Afonso Henriques conquered the city in 1147 were allowed to live — until 1497, when they and the Jewish people were expelled from Portugal.
It is also the birthplace for Fado, Lisbon’s soulful musical genre, as it was where the legendary singer Maria Severa lived in the 1800s. There are over 50 nationalities that live in its jumble of streets directly below the walls of the castle. I make my way through that jumble to find people sitting on the steps with delicious food in front of them.

We order the tasting menu and four hours later we are still eating!

And that brings us back to today, where I met the owner of the Social Club this morning. Midday, my friend Nick has returned from Scotland and we have a wonderful lunch at Kefi and then go by to see my friends at Pinot Wine Bar. This evening, I head way up to the northern part of Lisbon to attend an 80s dance party. I walked through the campus of the University of Lisbon on a beautiful evening.

Planes are flying so low overhead from the nearby airport I feel I must duck.

The dance party is put on by InterNations and it really is international. I meet people from Ecuador, Switzerland, Kazakhstan, Spain, Portugal, Canada….but not one single American. It is such fun.

And now I’m off to the Duoro Valley for three days. Thanks for reading along. Let me know if you have any questions for me.

Lisbon: Post 2: The Oslo Escape

I decide on Friday to take a trip to Oslo on Saturday. TAP Airlines flies to Oslo nonstop and I quickly book tickets. Next I research the best places to stay and am able to book my first choice: Hotel Continental. A 4 hour flight later, on a very early Saturday morning, finds me in Oslo before noon.

I jump on the express train at Oslo airport, which takes me right to my hotel’s door.

I’m a member of the hotel’s loyalty program (Leader’s Club) so I get an early check in to a wonderful room overlooking the National Theatre.

The weather is beautiful and a welcome relief from the heat wave in Portugal.When I land in a new city I always just start walking. I find myself in front of the Noble Peace Prize Center which has an English tour starting in 5 minutes.There are 5 Noble Prizes given out every year (Chemistry, Physics, Economics, Medicine and Peace), but only the Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo per the terms of Arthur Noble’s will. There have been 111 recipients of the Noble Peace Prize (19 of them women). It is awarded on December 10 each year at a ceremony at Oslo’s City Hall. A tribute to each recipient’s life and work is then created at the Noble Peace Prize Center. Last year the Peace Prize went to Narges Mohammadi for her fight against the oppression of woman in Iran.

I continue walking and I enjoy seeing my first Norwegian city. It is an incredible Scandinavian city, bursting at the seams with many green spaces, gorgeous museums and sophisticated restaurants. The waterfront is so beautiful and is overlooked by the Akershus Fortress.

My path takes me through a well kept cemetery and I come upon the grave of Oslo’s most famous artist, Edmund Munch.

I notice that despite the trim figures of all the people I pass, there is a bakery every few feet on my walk, with the most enticing baked goods.

I get a coffee ( well, and one small baked good) and sit for a while in St. Hanshaugen Park, watching people go about their Saturday.

As I loop back toward my hotel I come across a Pro-Palestein demonstration, but it is a very peaceful situation. So peaceful that a famous Oslo chef decides to send his chef’s out to make free food for everyone.

A little more walking before returning to my hotel to get ready to go out to dinner. It turns out the reservation I made is at a place doing 7 courses. Fortunately they are small!

I walk back to my hotel very happy that I have come to Oslo.

Sunday morning I have booked a walking tour, as I always do in a new city. Our guide is Michelle and she works as a hotel receptionist during the week. We meet at the Tiger statue which is the symbol of Oslo (who knew?).

One stop is Oslo’s Old Town which has the monument called “The Glove”.

The monument commemorates the king’s efforts to rebuild the city after a devastating fire in 1624. According to legend, King Christian IV pointed to this spot and declared that the new city would be built here. The monument serves as a reminder of the city’s rebirth and the king’s influence on its development. I also see the Oslo stock exchange “Borsen” and tour the Akershus Fortress, which was built around 1290.

Oslo has been the object of a tug of war between Denmark and Sweden for many years and only been an independent country since 1905. It was occupied by Nazi Germany during World War II, who made their headquarters at their Akershus Fortress.

After the tour ends, I go to City Hall to see the room where the Noble Prize is handed out each year. It is fun to imagine President Obama and Dr. Martin Luther King crossing that stage.

I also see a number of other rooms in city hall. One big meeting room has this mural filling one wall. Probably not something that would be chosen in most American city halls.

My next stop is the Vigeland Sculpture Park. I take a tram out to an enormous park (Oslo’s version of Central Park) that is filled with over 200 sculptures of Gustav Vigeland. It is the largest sculpture park by just one man. He was prolific! And controversial. All of his sculptures are unclothed and some would say shocking. Some of his most famous are “Man under attack from genii spirits”, “Angry boy”, the “Monolith”, the “Fountain” and “Entwined”. The park is filled with families enjoying the beautiful day while strolling about this unique scenery.

I stop for a beer in a local pub and continue my walk. Around 4pm, I know there is a mass in English at St Hallvards so I go there to attend. Beautifully, there are at least 10 very young alter servers. I spoke to the priest afterwards and he says they sometimes have double that amount of young alter servers.

I head home and get ready for my dinner at the Michelin bib restaurant Smalhans. This dinner is 6 courses and it is wonderful! Smalhans only uses foraged local ingredients and you can taste the freshness in the food. My server was Dominica and we chatted a bit about the Oslo food scene which is quite sophisticated.

My dessert was brought to me by the chef Mads Ekrheim. Apparently Dominica told him I was a bit of a foodie and he came out to chat with me. I really appreciate that.

Monday morning I decide to take the train south to a small city at the start of some of Oslo’s islands. The central train station is fairly busy, but very organized and easy to follow.

I went to Fredrikstad and got off off the train. I was a bit unsure how to proceed, so I walked to the river where I talk to the ferryman. He suggest I take the ferry across the river to the Old Town, Gamlebyen, and I take him up on it . The ferry is free. After visiting the the historic Gamlebyen, I take another ferry up the river. I had imagined I would then take a boat to one of the islands. I had my eye on getting to their Ytre Hvaler Nasjonal Park. Sadly, the boats for some reason are not running. So I console myself that I had two free ferry rides on the water on such a beautiful day and saw the best preserved fortress town in Northern Europe. I take the train back to Oslo.

When I return, I make my way to the Royal Palace in time to see the marching of the guards.The Palace is the official residence of the Norwegian monarchy.

Now it is time for dinner at Brassierie Frances. My friend from home, Jon, is Norwegian and he had recommended the place. I had such a good time. The food is wonderful, but the patrons even better. On my left is Roar, a banker and Egin, a lobbyist and on my right is Harald, a governmental attaché, and his wife, Margret, who are celebrating their 35th wedding anniversary. I learned so much about life in Oslo from chatting with these nice people. It is a festive evening.

A beautiful night walk home.

Tuesday my flight doesn’t leave until 6pm so I get a late check out and walk to the coffee house of Tim Wendelboe. It is a long walk, but I want to visit this coffee shop because he has won top barista in the world many years in a row. His coffee is considered exceptional, due to its source and its roasting. Getting there I pass through a neighborhood I really like called Grünerløkka. I pass a place called Mathallen with so any interesting shops.

I am taken with this one called Pies and Cupcakes ..and doughnuts. My essential food groups!

I take a bridge over the river Akerselva to get to Tim Wendelboe’s place. It is quite picturesque on the water.

Tim Wendelboe is very good looking and people visit it as if it is the holy grail of coffee. It is quite photogenic.

I ordered the cappuccino al fredo which I read is served in a martini glass. Yup. It is. And it is delicious.

I walk next to the main library, called the Drammen Bibliotek. I have heard that the libraries are the center of life in Oslo, but I couldn’t believe my eyes. It was 5 floors of books, but so much more. An area where babies are being played with among the books, a wine bar, a cafe, people working on computers and talking and eating and really enjoying being in the library. Wow!

The Oslo Opera House is next door. It is a beautiful building and unique as you are able to walk up to the roof on the outside and view Oslo from the top. I did that.

My last adventure is the National Museum. They have a special exhibit of Rothko and he is one of my favorite artists. They are exhibiting 250 of his works on paper which is mind-blowing.

Also there are two rooms of Munch works including two of his most famous paintings, The Scream and the Madonna.

This museum has only been opened a few years and I think it is world-class. I wish I could come here everyday and see a different exhibit.

Perhaps the most interesting and disturbing pieces of art is in the lobby. The art work started out because of a pile of rotting reindeer heads were dumped outside a court. The Norwegian government had ordered a mass cull of herds owned by Norway’s indigenous Sámi people, and Máret Ánne Sara wanted judges hearing a case against the demand, brought by her herder brother, to experience the grisly consequences. The tapestry of 400 reindeer skulls done by Sara has the flesh and tissue boiled and scrubbed off and the bone polished to a shine. It hangs like a huge flag. When you get closer you can see the bullet holes in each of the reindeer heads. It is quite an important art piece in the Sámi community and the museum wants to make a statement of its importance.

I look at my watch and it is time to take the express train back to the airport. This trip whet my appetite to come back to Norway and see other parts of the country.

One last beer and I am headed back to beautiful Lisbon.

I hope you enjoyed visiting Oslo with me!

LISBON: WEEK 1

Certain things about this Shirleyfest are different than prior Shirleyfests. I’ve been in Lisbon just one week, but I’ve been gone from California for three weeks. I did a hiking trip in Scotland prior to arriving in Portugal. The hiking was amazing and made even better because Laura and Mallory joined me.

Therefore, I arrive in Lisbon fully on local time. That makes getting going in my new city really easy. However, I’ve never done a Shirleyfest starting in August. It is much warmer and much more crowded than my fall Shirleyfests. Nonetheless, Lisbon is stunning and I have a wonderful apartment in a great neighborhood.

I actually arrive from Inverness, Scotland well after midnight, so I book a room at the airport hotel for the first night. I don’t want to deal with getting into a new apartment at 2 am. I can see the airport hotel right in front of me when I exit the Lisbon airport and google maps says it is only a 5 minute walk, but for the life of me I cannot see how I can walk there.There are lanes and lanes of traffic in front of me.

However, I don’t dare get in the long cab line and tell the taxi driver to drive me 2 minutes. So I finally figure out I have to roll my roller bag thru multiple busy intersections crisscrossing left then right then over again. I am very happy to reach my lovely bed after that harrowing experience.

The next morning I arrive at my new home at 10:00 am and let myself in with a code. The building is delightful. It is right on a corner of a quiet street. The place is fairly new and it has beautiful furnishings and top of the line appliances (all Bosch: dishwasher, induction burners, oven, washer and dryer). And most importantly strong air conditioning. There is a large patio to sit and have wine and cheese (hopefully with my new friends).

I unpack quickly and head out to explore. Estrela Park is in my backyard so I start there and order a beer to sit and people watch (and dance).

Afterwards, I explore a bit before getting ready to walk to dinner at Café De São Bento. I always have a nice dinner reservation made for my first night on Shirleyfest. I had read good things about this restaurant. It is opposite the Portuguese parliament with a little red door on Rua de São Bento where I have to ring the doorbell and wait until someone lets me in. Once inside, I see the color red is a major player in the decoration, similar to their famous medium rare steak that’s been bringing locals back to this spot for the past 40 years. This is a great spot for people watching, since it’s a popular place for politicians to celebrate the deals they just sealed across the street. I enjoy a wonderful meal.

I discuss with David, the charming server, how best to cross the river to view Lisbon from the other side. Just as I am finishing, a young woman next to me, who had been chatting in Portuguese with everyone, follows up with me (in perfect English) about what David has told me. Her name is Catarina and she lives nearby and goes to school. We chat and she loves the idea of Shirleyfest. She offers some great Lisbon suggestions. One suggestion is that since it’s my first night here she will show me the famous Lisbon miradores ( lookout points). Off we go traipsing through nighttime Lisbon. We walk for hours and I see the most beautiful nighttime sights and sounds.

The next day I head out for a walking tour I have booked with a local PhD archeology student. The meeting point at 11am is near the famous 13th century Igreja de São Domingos, so since it is Sunday, I go early and attend mass there. I really love going to mass in foreign countries. Even though I cannot always follow the homily, the order of the mass remains the same and I just say in English what the other participants are saying in their native language. This is the oldest church in Lisbon and has a difficult and storied past. It was the site of the Inquisition, murdering thousands of Jewish citizens in 1506. It has also been destroyed by an earthquake and fire which locals say is punishment for the Inquisition. The ceiling of the church is red, memorializing the bloodshed of the event.

I meet Kate, my guide, and we traverse Lisbon, seeing many of the archeological sites in several neighborhoods.

Afterwards I head to the Lapa area for lunch at Le Boulangerie.

Sated, I walk up the enormous hill to my apartment. Tonight I have dinner at Senhor UVA, a vegetarian restaurant one block from my apartment. The street runs between two dining rooms and I sit at the bar and had a delicious meal and discussed travel with my server Adrian who is from Florianopolis, Brazil. He is making the case for a Shirleyfest there.

Monday I walk to the main Metro station and make an application for a monthly transport card. Fortunately I know to always bring extra passport photos on Shirleyfest, as sure enough one is needed to complete the application. Handing it over, I’m told to come back the next day to pick it up. Given how far I’ve walked, I decide another 30 minutes will bring me to the Gulbenkian Museum. Along the way I stop for a nice lunch along a lake in Eduardo Park. I was at the Gulbenkian 8 years ago and recall it fondly. It does not disappoint. My favorite is the Portrait of Sara by Frans Hals. His paintings always look so realistic.

Tonight I hit another neighborhood place….. Pinot Bar de Vinhos. I’m surprised to learn it is owned by the same people that own Senhor Uva, where I ate the prior night. It is right on Estrela Park and a unique wine store. There is no wine by the glass menu. You just tell Jems, the server, what you feel like and he selects from the various bottles he has available. I end up with a Sicilian red from the Mt. Etna area and some very tasty small plates. I have a great conversation about the Japanese art islands with two people from my neighborhood who have also stopped by.

Tuesday I walk back to pick up my transit card. I’m surprised to find out it works not only on Lisbon buses, Metros, and trams, but the ferries, the trains to many nearby cities and even the elevadores ( funiculars). Not only is it a financial bargain, the ease of never having to go to a ticket machine or ticket agent is invaluable. So let me start using this valuable card!

First I take a bus to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique. Getting off, I see a lovely church called Saint Condestable and mass is beginning so I decide to head in. Gorgeous.

I stroll around the market wishing we could get these plump fresh anchovies in California.

A stop at Copenhagen Coffee Lab fuels me to take a tram to the ferry depot where I catch the ferry cross the river to Christ the King statue. The ferry ride is so calm ( and short—8 minutes). Christ the King statue is almost identical to Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio. I get off the ferry and see a shuttle that I’m guessing must go to the statue. I hop on and 15 minutes later I’m there, overlooking what suspiciously looks like San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Approaching the entrance I’m waved to a ticket line. I oblige, though I see many people bypassing the ticket line. I figure I want to support the economy so I buy a ticket. Later I realize that the only reason to buy a ticket is to go to the top of the statue. Ok, well I have the ticket so up I go. Amazing views and it is quite spiritual way up there.

After reversing courses, and returning via ferry I look at my pre- prepared personal Lisbon map and realize I m near Taberna de Rua das Flores. Famous for it fresh fresh seafood I head over not sure if I’ll get in. But I do! Fantastic octopus and beetroot salad and of course Portuguese wine. I decide to walk home but not before stopping for a drink at the rooftop bar of Hotel Chiado. I just love this rooftop bar. Great views, good wine list and friendly waiters. Ahhh. I have a little chat with Sofia, a student, who has the same birthday as me ( I’ll need to go back there on our day!).

Wednesday I decide to try my new transport card on the train and head to Cacais. I’m so glad I do as this is a stunning town. Think of it as Carmel with a fortress. I read the food blogs on the train and so I head straight for Malacopa for fresh fish tacos. Walking around afterwards is so delightful. The beach, the marble streets, and adorable shops. When I get to the fortress, I find that once you enter the courtyard it is an artist colony with many art galleries. What a great idea. I think I could easily live in this town. On the train back I sit next to a Brazilian woman who tells me she came for a visit to Cacais about 8 years ago and never went home! She lives in a bungalow where she walks to the beach each day.

I WhatsApp my new friend Caterina to see if she wants to meet me for Greek food tonight. There is a place recommended by Eater 38 only two blocks from my place. Luckily she agrees and we have a wonderful meal at Kefi Greek Bistro. Afterwards we stop by Pinot Bar for a night cap. What great day.

Thursday it is 96 degrees. I decide to go out to Factory FX. It’s a concept area with several streets of bars, restaurants and shops. Very hipster. I feel like I’m in Brooklyn. I have a nice salad and stroll around a bit before jumping on a tram and heading to the MAAT museum. It is the Museum of architecture, art and technology. It’s along the river and part of the museum is in an old power plant. The architecture is beautiful and the setting is stunning. The curation of the exhibits does leave me puzzled on several occasions. I do like this one exhibit on the various colors we find in the oceans. A small child is mesmerized by it as I sit there.

Friday it is still very very hot. I do a walk down Avenue Liberdade where old phone booths have been turned into kiosks. It is refreshing to stop for a cold drinks all along the wide boulevard. Next I brave the heat and do a self guided walking tour of Barrio Alto neighborhood, including a ride on the Elevador Bica.

Later I meet two new people that my friend Nick introduced me. Nicole and Tova meet me back at Pinot Bar. A bottle of bubble and wonderful conversation flows easily. These are extremely interesting people who I hope to see again in England or Norway ( their respective homes).

I finish writing this first trip report on a flight to Oslo. I decide spur of the moment to be very European and go to Oslo for the weekend. It will be much cooler there.

So this is my first week of this year’s Shirtleyfest. Adeus as they say in Portugal…..until my next report. Thanks for reading along.

Announcing Shirleyfest 2024!!!

LISBON

Laura and I visited Lisbon 9 years ago. It was the summer before she started grad school. We had rooftop drinks every night, ate delicious seafood and walked and walked. We had a blast and one week was just not enough. Yet I haven’t been back….until now.

My memory of Lisbon is that it is charming all at once — an endearing mix of now and then. Vintage trolleys shiver up and down its hills, bird-stained statues mark grand squares, taxis rattle and screech through cobbled lanes, and Art Nouveau cafés are filled equally with well-worn and well-dressed locals — nursing their coffees side-by-side. It’s a city of proud ironwork balconies, multicolored tiles, and mosaic sidewalks; of bougainvillea and red-tiled roofs with antique TV antennas; and of foodie haunts and designer boutiques.

I actually thought I’d try Sydney this year, but I kept hitting a brick wall in my search for the perfect apartment. Since this is my 14th Shirleyfest, I know now the universe is trying to tell me something when that happens. It was whispering. “Lisbon”.

Why not Lisbon? Absolutely no reason. It is one of the oldest cities in the world and the second-oldest European capital city (after Athens) predating other modern European capitals by centuries. It is mainland Europe’s westernmost capital city (second overall after Reykjavik) the only one along the Atlantic coast, the others (Reykjavik and Dublin) being on islands. So history and geography conspired to create Lisbon for my next Shirleyfest.

Once I got it in my head that this is where Shirleyfest must be, I had a simultaneous thought…stay longer. So my friends Nick and Ivan put me in touch with a relocation company they had used and lo and behold they had the perfect apartment. It’s in the area of Lisbon called CAMPO DE OURIQUE. I’m staying longer this year so look for lots more posts!

Here’s a few snaps of my new place:

So as always please pass along to me ideas, tips and any people that would make my stay interesting. I look forward to sharing my adventure with you.

The REAL Madrid……………….My interview with Borja Martin Guridi, Chief Concierge of the Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid

Imagine you arrive at the Madrid airport after a long overnight flight. An immaculately dressed driver from the Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid is waiting for you and settles you into the pristine black car.

An icy cold Coke Zero with lemon (your preferred drink after flying) is poured for you to sip as you make your short way to the hotel.

How did they know? One word…. “Borja.”

You are taken through the gorgeous, soothing lobby to your beautiful suite.

Excited about your days ahead, but wishing your daughter could be here to enjoy it with you, you spy on your coffee table a copy of on being mistaken, a book of poetry she published last year. Ahhh she is with you in spirit!

How did they know?…… “Borja.”

This imaginary story sounds so dreamy, but it could be your reality if you stay at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid and meet the Chief Concierge, Borja Martin Guridi.

My series of interviews with General Managers and Chief Concierges around the world have been enjoyed by many of my readers. I think that is because we all love knowing the behind the scenes activities of these beautiful places and knowing about the people that make everything work so smoothly. I know exactly who in Madrid I want to interview for this series…Borja Martin Guridi. In addition to his long tenure at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid, he is President of Spain’s chapter of Les Clefs d’Or. An extremely busy man, he nonetheless finds time to spend a morning with me in the hotel’s stunning Palm Court. Arranging our schedules to make this interview happen was in no small part due to the gracious and persistent efforts of Inma Casado, the Director of Communications. I am delighted that she was able to join us for a portion of the interview.

The Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid has 113 years of history and the opening ceremony in October 1910 was performed by King Alfonso XIII and his Queen Victoria Eugenia, granddaughter of the English Monarch Queen Victoria. The hotel is a luxury Belle Époque Palace located in the famous Golden Triangle of Art of Madrid. In the days prior to our interview, I would often find myself altering my route just to pass by this beautiful palace.

Borja has spent his entire career doing the miraculous, the ordinary, the heart-warming and the impossible work of ensuring each guest has no doubt that they made the right choice to stay at this luxurious special property. His youthful energy and enthusiasm in conveying his thoughts makes for such a fun morning. Let me share with you what I learned.

You’ve spent your whole career in one place. What makes you loyal to this property and to this city?

Madrid is my city, It is the best city and I am at the best hotel. I didn’t expect my first opportunity to be so compelling and perfect for me, but it was and it is. There is nowhere else I would rather be. My family loves being here and I love my work. That’s not to say that I don’t travel to other Mandarin Oriental properties to help train new staff or institute new programs or just to help. I do, and I enjoy that, but this is my home.

Tell me about your team.

We are a team of 35 at present. I have the concierge staff, both out front and doing research behind the scenes, the bellmen/porters and a group of 12 excellent drivers. Our drivers set us apart as they not only do airport chauffeuring, but can be at a guest’s disposal for excursions all over Madrid and further a field.

Tell me about changes in your years here. Tell me what you have noticed?

Guests are more savvy, because they have access to a wealth of information before they arrive. Many come with ideas of what they want to do. We meet them where they are and we try to guide them to the better choice of the possibilities. Of course some come with a blank slate and we paint a picture of activities that will be pleasing to them during their time in Madrid. We are also more savvy for the same reason. We become educated about our guests , their interests and background before they arrive, so we can be of the upmost service to them from the moment they arrive. In addition to our European guest, we now see a large contingent of Americans, Asians and South Americans who want to enjoy the luxury of our property. The nature of travel is such that many of our clients have travelled to luxury hotels all over the world. It keeps us constantly striving to meet their lofty expectations. And we do!

Also, guests have changed in that they increasingly want more connection with the staff. Years ago there was more of a distant relationship between guest and staff Now, the guests like to be close and personal in their requests and in their communications, which you rarely saw years ago. Also, the style of dress has become less formal and more smart casual over the years.

As you know, each year I live in a different city in the world for one month…Shirleyfest. Most guests are not in Madrid for a month like I am. If you could advise a guest how to allocate their limited time, what you recommend?

Five days would be ideal, but many guests only have three days or so to spend in Madrid. In that case, I find out where their interest lies. Is it culture, restaurants, wine, clothing designers, history? It is often a mix. Once I know the guest’s interests, we can suggest the best alternatives for them. For example if a guest is fashion minded, we get more specific…do they want to see only Spanish designers, do they want private showings? Maybe they have heard of our Vermouth culture and want to experience that. We will guide them to the places where the experience will be authentic and enjoyable… like for example Bodega La Ardosa where the Vermouth is “de grifo”, which means on tap. We go the extra mile to make their stay memorable.

And if you were staying in Madrid for one month, how would you spend your time?

Like you, I would stay right in the midst of Madrid. You are on Calle de Recoletos which is a very nice area. There are many neighborhoods within the confines of the city that I like and would maybe choose. Each gives you such a different vibe…..Salamanca to Chuecha to La Latina. I’d wander this city, eat at all our great restaurants, go to the major and minor museums, but also galleries and private collections. I’d visit Palacio de Liria which is wonderful, but few people know about it. The Duke still lives there. I’d simply walk the Gran Via and people watch. I’d stop for coffee…Madrid has excellent coffee. Go to some of our interesting bars. We have wonderful music in the city. If Real Madrid was playing I would try to go to a match and check out that neighborhood. Basically I would do what you are doing in my own city.

Any day trips you would take?

Toledo

Chinchon

Aranjuez

And if you were to do a Borjafest?

So many places! Maybe Kuala Lumper.

You are President of Spain’s Les Clefs d’Or. What exactly is Les Clef d’Or?

Les Clefs d’Or (translated as The Golden Keys) is a professional association of hotel concierges, with approximately 4000 members working in over 80 countries and 530 destinations, in literally every corner of the world.

These members are a globally connected, committed to professional development, and driven to setting new standards for guest service perfection. I often work with member concierges in far flung destinations where my guests are going next to pave the way for their next great experience.

With roots dating back to 1929, Les Clefs d’Or was officially founded in France in 1952 as a not-for-profit organization based on two pillars: Service and Friendship. Before earning the right to wear the golden keys, those who aspire to become a member must have years of experience as a hotel concierge, pass comprehensive testing and prove, beyond doubt, their ability to deliver highest quality of service.

In your position with the organization, you must know many excellent concierges doing high levels of service. What do those high level service concierges have in common?

Of course attention to detail and guest focus, and very hard working, passionate and always connected. Also most concierges now specialize. For example, here we have one individual who is an expert on wine, another knows all about theatre and opera, another museums. Specialization is very common among talented concierges. Excellent hotel concierges are the most reliable local experts and ambassadors of their chosen destinations.

What is a recent unusual request that you made happen?

All concierges have their historical interesting stories, but I like to talk about recent things. This past week, we had a group of guest that very much wanted to stay with us, but only if we could get them together in a box at a Real Madrid game. That is of course a very difficult task as those boxes are sold out a very long time in advance. I went to work. I made phone call after phone call and worked hours and hours and in the end I made it happen. The guests were very happy and of course we were very happy to have them here.

I recently arranged for a father a series of helicopter rides over the city with his daughter to celebrate her birthday. At various places that the helicopter hovered over, there were birthday greeting visible on the ground. That was quite well received!

What do you do when you encounter someone who is not happy? Perhaps for good reason or perhaps just their general mood.

The number one thing I do is Listen. I pause. I let them talk. I invite them for a coffee and just sit with them. After I feel I understand what is bothering them, I make a plan to surprise them. I ask myself “How can I turn this situation around?” That’s when I use MO WOW. The Mandarin Oriental wowing technique. Maybe they had a problem with their dinner reservation last night. I will find out where they are going tonight and call my contact there to have a unique and fun surprise from us after they sit down. Not just a glass of champagne… something very personal and surprising…MO WOW is a powerful tool and always brings a smile back to the guest’s face.

You do many interviews, is there anything you wish you would get asked but don’t?

I am very happy that you covered so much about what I do and this amazing property. We have a Spanish term”desconocimiento” which means “lack of knowledge. People don’t know what they don’t know. Our job can be a mystery or seem one dimensional to some people. I’m glad I got to enlighten you today. I look forward to welcoming your readers to the beautiful Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid.

I so enjoyed my morning interview! I am inspired by Borja’s suggestions. I take myself to Mune, a Lebanese restaurant that my new friend Biby recommend. Delicious.

Now I’ll plot out the rest of the day. While at Mune, I just decide to make it a Borja Day. Anything I haven’t done that he mentioned, I am going to do today!

Let’s begin.

First stop Liria Palace. I take the Metro and find the palace just off the Metro stop. I quickly buy a ticket and it seems I will be with a group of 5 others for this tour. It is a nice arrangement in that we all have headsets in our language and a guide walks with us and only points at the important objects at the right spot in the audio guide. The palace is a neoclassical palace and the resident of the Dukes of Alba. It was built in 1770 and destroyed during the Spanish Civil War. It was rebuilt and currently Carole Fitz-James Stuart , the 19th Duke of Alba lives here. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, but trust me the rooms and furnishings are magnificent. The art collection is remarkable also. My favorite, though, was the exhibition room where there is a first edition of Don Quixote, letters from Christopher Columbus throughout his journey to and from America and the 1430 Alba Bible.

From here I see on my CityMaps2Go (that I populated before I left home) the 1862 Dry Bar is about a mile walk. Off I go! No wine, no beer…just cocktails. Lucky for me it is Negroni week and I get Un Americano en Berlin version (because I WAS that during Shirleyfest 2013).

Delicious…. and I met the owner Alberto and lovely bartender Gabriella.

It’s a strong drink so one is plenty. I’m off to find a little coffee to keep going.

Acid Coffee in the Barrio de las Letha’s neighborhood has an unusual name but great coffee. It’s the only coffeehouse in Spain that works exclusively with Danish roaster La Cabra. The interior is a cross between a country house and a Danish apartment.

Everyone here is dressed beautifully. I sat looking out the window drinking a flat white (and yes one of those Danish style Hygge buns) and I saw a lady on a motorcycle….also dressed impeccably.

Refreshed, I’m heading out to see if I can tour the Real Madrid stadium since there is no game today. I walk through a beautiful neighborhood reminiscent of California.

I come to the striking stadium. Turns out the only tour available is a tour of the museum because there is construction. I pass, as I think the museum artifacts might be lost on me, but I did enjoy seeing the stadium.

Once again I consult my CityMaps2Go homework and see that El Doble is nearby.

Time for a beer and a snack. El Doble is considered one of the best breweries in Madrid. It is packed. It has a long bar with decorated tiles on the facade inside and out. People were downing the chips and seafood and enjoying a fun afternoon.

I Metro home to change as I am going to the symphony next. One person can almost always get a ticket, so I change quickly and get back in the elevator.

I take the Metro out to the National Music Auditorium. I am in luck. An orchestra seat at such a reasonable price I’m not going to say it. The program was great! Badalo, Modest Músorgski and Tchaikovsky.

I feel I have taken all of Borja suggestions seriously and I’ve had such a good time. I head back to my lovely neighborhood and finish the evening off with a late dinner at Mudra, my go-to place on my block.

I see why Borja is so good at what he does. If I can have such a wonderful day by just listening to a few of his suggestions, imagine the guest experience who has him for many days in a row to guide a wonderful Madrid experience.

That’s a wrap from Madrid. Thanks for following along!

Madrid: A Beatles’ Musical in 3 Acts: The last two acts

Act 2: Happy Birthday

“You say it’s your birthday”

Yup, once again.

Real fast tell me where you were on your last 13 birthdays and who you were with. Hard isn’t it? Used to be for me too. But……..since Shirleyfest I’ve spent my last 13 birthdays in 13 cities that I can easily rattle off. That alone makes the day special. What really makes it special is that in each city, visitors have arrived to celebrate with me (often along with local friends). This year Nick and Ivan will be my birthday visitors. I met them 10 years ago when they were living in Berlin, my Shirleyfest city that year.

It’s Friday and before Nick arrives from London today, I try the new place Osom for coffee. They ask if I’d share a table because it’s crowded. Of course I will. A man sits down and we both silently receive our orders, each assuming the other doesn’t speak our language. Finally I couldn’t hold out any more and I use my standard phrase, “May I speak English to you?” ( I find it much more polite than saying “ Do you speak English?). He smiles and say “Sure, I’m Brandon from San Jose, California, and where are you from?” Turns out he’s in charge of AI development at a Silicon Valley company, so I learn his take on why we need not worry about AI. ( I’m still worried).

I leave and stock up on provisions and flowers and soon Nick arrives.

After apertivo at my place, we walk to the garden of the Mandarin Oriental hotel for a delicious 7 course pre-birthday tasting menu.

It’s really a lively spot with the tables spaced nicely, greenery all around and really attentive waiters. We walk home admiring the moonlit buildings and at midnight it’s my birthday.

We head out to Natif Saturday morning, as I have to show Nick this gorgeous place. Fortunately, we get to talk to Juan Campbell, from Argentina, who owns the place with his Italian partner, Roberta.

He says their unique coffeehouse is where they “create a space inspired by nature, where the kitchen, pastry and specialty coffee coexist in a symbiotic way, respecting the land and its transcendence.” Juan sees Natif as a meeting place where “fires, alchemy and pleasure protect the time from vain materialism.” I mean you gotta love this poetic guy. And the food and coffee are wonderful.

Afterwards we go to the Botanical Gardens which I’ve been saving to go to until Nick arrived. Such fun just wandering about.

Ivan arrives from Lisbon. He’s a real kidder this one.

Now we head to El Paraguas. Ivan and Nick know how to celebrate. First comes the champagne with the Iberico ham and then lots of delicious food appears.

This is obviously a place to be seen and to see, so I spy on quite a lot of tables from my vantage point. A delicious cheesecake with a candle arrives at the end and I feel quite celebrated. ( little did I know what was to come).

Later we walk through the center of town to deliver Ivan to his meeting at the Teatro Real (Ivan is the new head of the Lisbon Opera house.) Jacinto of Delivinos has asked us to stop in at some point today, so we head there. We find they have a birthday celebration in mind.

A lemon ice cream cake prepared by a Marcello is brought out (another candle to blow out) and more wine. We meet Biby and Michele who have moved here a few years ago. A lively conversation/party evolves.

Later Nick and I go to my special restaurant Vinoteca Moratin.

After another delicious meal, Marcos brings another dessert with a candle.

I hope I didn’t age 3 years instead of one by blowing out 3 candles. Ivan finished his meeting and joins us for coffee. My birthday ends as we are walking home at midnight. We prophetically see the fallen stop sign. Time to stop before we fall down!

The next day we explore both the Prado and the Royal Collection museum and take a peak at a wedding going on at San Jerónimo.

A mid morning stop for cakes and coffee at the Mandarin Oriental is fun because Borja who I had interviewed earlier ( and who I am writing a separate post about) was there and greeted us warmly.

Then it’s a late lunch at Quintin. I have gotten to know Belin, the hostess, and she gives us a great table upstairs. More delicious food! The guys head out tonight and I’m left to bask in the memories of an amazing birthday weekend!

Act 3: “I get by with a little help from my friends”

When I think about spending a month in a new city, of course I think about all there will be to do: music, art, restaurants, neighborhoods…..

All of these things are exciting to experience and learn from, but honestly, Shirleyfest is mostly about people. The joy of these new experiences in a new city is greatly enhanced by the human connections I make. Every city this happens and every city I find myself overwhelmed by the kindness of people that have encouraged me and made my month vivid and uplifted.

Madrid has warmed my heart with all the people I’ve been fortunate enough to meet.

Sometimes it’s the people I meet working their jobs. Sometimes it’s people also enjoying a meal or an experience and they engage in conversation with me. There’s those people I’ve been put in touch with by friends back home who include me in their Madrid lives. There are the people that make such an effort to visit me. I also feel supported by all the people that reach out to me through reading my blog, sending emails and texts, excited by my adventures.

Thank you to all of you. I truly do get by with the help of my friends. I obviously don’t have pictures of all my personal interactions, but here’s a little photo gallery of a few of the people that have made Madrid Shirleyfest a special September.

Speaking of people, in some ways every Shirleyfest is just an anthropological view of the people. My primary observation is that the people in Madrid live their lives outside, all the time. No matter the time or day, people gather, eat, play, and converse outside. I find this fascinating since San Francisco and Madrid are almost the same latitude, yet I don’t see this outdoor all the time living in SF. I wish I did. My friend Biby told me that even on the rare occasion that it snows, people just push the snow aside, brush off the chairs and sit outside. It’s a way of life here. I really like it.

The other observation I make is what do people talk about. In Madrid people talked to me about learning new skills, wine, romantic relationships, cooking, kids, enjoying their friends, music, travel, school, starting a business, expanding a business, and food, food, food. The most interesting thing is what they didn’t talk about. Not one person talked to me about diets, losing weight, foods they were avoiding, needing to go to the gym more, what things cost, sports or what they were watching on Netflix, Hulu or Amazon Prime. Telling, don’t you think?

I’ll do my interview post with Borja Martin soon. Other than that, this is a wrap from Shirleyfest Madrid. I’m going to go downstairs to Delivinos and see my friends. I’ll have one more glass of Verdejo and a Spanish cheese plate that Marcello will make for me. Thanks for following along this trip.

See you on the other side of the pond.

Adiós

Madrid: A Beatles’ Musical in 3 Acts…..Day Tripper, Happy Birthday, You Get By With A Little Help From Your Friends

Act 1: “Day Tripper”

Day trips are an important part of each Shirleyfest. Usually my day trips are scattered throughout the month, but this time my visitors’ schedule meant they have all come in the last week. It is nice in a way to be able to compare and contrast them in a short time span. I have developed a really good system for day trips that I then tweak for each city. My methodology is so good that yesterday I was contemplating writing an article called “The art of perfect holiday day trips.” Then, just to keep me humble, I had an amateur goof that I’ll tell you about at the end of Act 1.

Segovia, Spain

The aqueduct in Segovia is one of the most spectacular legacies of the Roman Empire in Spain. It is made up of 166 arches spanning more than 10 miles. It transports water from La Acebeda to the Alcázar, defying the laws of gravity, since the only thing that keeps the structure standing is its balance of forces; no kind of mortar was used in its construction.

Wednesday night, I am out to dinner with my new friend Chris. Afterwards, we join an InterNations meet up in Retiro Park. So many people from so many countries drinking and listening to music at a bar in the middle of the park. I meet such interesting men and women! I tell you this because it was so much fun that I don’t walk back thru the park and reach my flat until after midnight. But…. I really want to see those Segovian aqueducts! I’m up early and catch the local train to the major train station at Chamartin. Quickly changing tracks, I take the 27 minute fast train to Segovia. I hop the waiting bus and 10 minutes later I’m standing in front of the aqueducts.

First, I sit at an outdoor cafe just to admire this magnificent structure before walking through the old city to the wonderful Gothic Cathedral built in 1532.

Then it’s on to the Alcazar. There is a deep moat with a drawbridge which provides access to this fortress, which became the royal residence in the 13th century,

The views along the way are magnificent.

My local Madrid friends Lola and Gonzalo have told me that in Segovia I must eat at Casa Duque and I must order suckling pig and the local gigantic beans.

In Segovia, suckling pigs whose quality and authenticity are guaranteed by the label “Cochinilla de Segovia” are raised on specific farms dedicated entirely to this animal alone. What makes dishes of suckling pig different are the diet fed to the pig’s mother, the suckling’s weight (around 10 pounds ) and its age, which cannot exceed three weeks. Another one of the jewels of Segovia gastronomy apparently is the Judión Granja bean, named after the town of La Granja in San Ildefonso. Called judión for its large size, this bean is surprisingly very tender. I make a reservation from the train and I’m happy I did. Casa Duque is the oldest restaurant in Segovia and very well regarded. The beans come with chorizo sausage and a small something I had to ask about ( pig’s ear!). I left that last bit, but the beans and sausage are delicious. Then comes the suckling pig. My my. Excellent.

Too full for dessert, I finish my wine and check out Plaza Mayor where a lively market is taking place.

I wander around the old Jewish city.

I reverse my steps and head back to Madrid.

Toledo, Spain

The night before my Toledo excursion, I go to my favorite neighborhood place, Delivinos and while intending to stay just a short while, I run into Lola and we started talking and then Gonzalo joins us and a few others…it’s late again, but I’ve already bought my 8:40 am ticket to Toledo for the next day. Oh well..lots of coffee in the morning and I’m off.

I take the fast train and I am in Toledo in 30 minutes. I hop on the bus to the city center and after a little more coffee, I head for the alcazar fortress.

Once used as a Roman palace in the 3rd century, it was restored under Alfonso VI and Alfonso X and renovated in 1535. During the Spanish Civil War, nationalist Colonel Jose Moscardo Ituarte held the building against overwhelming Spanish Republican forces in the Siege of the Alcazar.

Oddly, no one is here. I roam about taking pictures, pretending I am in the Spanish military and enjoying having it all to myself.

Afterwards I go to the magnificent Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo.

This Cathedral is a Roman Catholic church built in a Gothic style. The site where now the cathedral stands has a long history. There was originally a 6th-century Visigothic basilica, but during the Muslim invasion, it was turned into a mosque for over 300 years. I used an audio guide as there was so much to see. It took my breath away.

Before taking a walking tour of the old city I take myself to lunch at the Michelin La Cabalas. Expecting a nice lunch, I have one of my best meals in Spain. See for yourself.

My walking tour with Carlos is interesting. I am glad I went to the Alcazar and the Cathedral before lunch, as his tour is of the back streets and neighborhoods of Toledo.

Very interesting and enjoyable. The train home is quick and easy.

Alacalá De Henares, Spain

I have to admit I had never heard of Alaclá De Henares before Monday night. I was at Alimentacion Quiroga at the invitation of Martin and Concha. They live part time in Madrid and part time in Dover, England. I met them the prior week at the same place we are now sitting. We started talking then and I knew I wanted to see them again. This time I ask about their favorite day trips from Madrid. They both agree: Alaclá De Henares. Hmmmm…what? Yikes how did I not know the birthplace of Cervantes and the home of one of the oldest universities in the world. The University of Alcalá was founded in 1293 as a medieval university and rebounded as a modern university in 1975. It attracts many Spanish and international students – many of whom come on Erasmus or study abroad programs. The university is also famous for its annual Cervantes Prize, awarded for lifetime achievement of a writer in the Spanish language. I tour the birthplace of Cervantes which is now a lovely museum, climb the tower and visit other historical building.

I’m really intent on finding these caramelized nuts that this city is famous for. They are called garrapiñadas and you can buy them at the stores but apparently there’s nothing like buying them from the Convent of the Poor Clares of San Diego (Convento de las Clarisas de San Diego), the candied almonds’ birthplace. The Poor Clares have been making garrapiñadas since their Order was established in Alcalá de Henares around 1670 . You buy almonds there by ringing a bell. A nun is hidden behind a turning booth and after you put money in the booth, she returns roasted almonds. You never see the nun, communication is verbal only.

Having secured my garrapiñadas, I’m ready for lunch. Martin said the best place is El Casino so there I head. I score a balcony table at this busy place. The daily menu is 15 euros and consists of three courses plus a beer or wine. This is one of the nicest restaurants in town. How do they do it?! I’m happy to partake.

Afterwards another fast train ride home.

El Escaroil

When my new friend Monica left for England, she texted me to be sure to go to El Escaroil.

El Escorial is a vast building complex located in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, near Madrid. The building is the most important architectural monument of the Spanish Renaissance. Construction of El Escorial began in 1563 and ended in 1584. The project was conceived by King Philip II, who wanted a building to serve the multiple purposes of a burial place for his father, Holy Roman emperor Charles V; a Hieronymite monastery; and a palace. Several other people mentioned that I must see this place. Interestingly Martin and Concha thought it was not to be visited. I may have misunderstood, but I think they believed it was built on the backs of the less fortunate and therefore should be shunned. I decided I would have to decide for myself.

While every guide book says to take the bus to El Escaroil, I am not a fan of buses over trains ( see my post on Quebec City). It was really hard to get google to show me the way by train. And guidebooks warned that if you took the train you would have a long walk to the monastery. Hogwash! I easily took the local train a few blocks from my flat. When I arrive, it is a less than one mile walk through the Prince’s Palace park.

I arrive early and there is no line ( later I saw in the afternoon that the line was enormous). I buy a ticket and then ask if there is an English tour, as the only sign posted says tours in French and Spanish. The attendant looks at me and said “si” and hand writes a sign and tapes it to the window saying English tour in 15 minutes. I pay another 4 euros and wait. In 15 minutes, a big crowd gathers and the tour guide and the attendees start talking rapidly in Spanish. “Pardon” I say. “?Gita en Ingles”

The guide smiles and says, “oh you are the one”. She points to her colleague— “this is your English person”. Wait..it’s just me? Did they make up a tour for just me? Yes, I have a private guide for two hours all over this amazing monastery, church, school, gardens and library.

Her name is María. She says 90% of Spanish girls are given the name María as a first or middle name to honor the Virgin Mary. She is an excellent guide and tells me a lot of the nuances of why things were done the way they were. Honestly, it was fascinating. We see the king’s and queen’s apartments which have doors that open on either side of the huge basilica altar. They could go to mass without getting out of their beds. In the library, every book spine was covered with gold to indicate the wealth of the king.

After the tour, I walk into the little town and pick an outdoor cafe for a salad. Then it’s a lovely walk back thru the Prince’s Palace garden to the train station home.

We have come to the end of act 1 of the Shirleyfest Beatles Musical post. Act 2, coming right up. First though let me tell you about my Day Tripper goof. In Segovia yesterday, I was ready to catch my 6:30 pm train. I had an hour but I always leave a little buffer. I scoured the aqueduct area for a taxi, but none were to be found. The bus had let me off at the aqueduct that morning, so I thought I’ll just hop on the bus back. I put “Estación de tren de Segovia” into google maps and it said take the #8 bus and get off and walk 5 minutes. Totally doable. A little something in my head said, hmm it was the #11 bus when I came and there was no walking. So I look again and check the translation of “train station”……. same answer on google maps. Ok here comes the #8 bus. I hop on. Nice driver. I sit up front. We go a little while and I look up and the bus is going into the mountains. Woah! “Señor, ?Estación de tren Segovia?” He laughs. “ No no Wrong bus! You should have taken the #11.” He says all in Spanish. Yikes. He says “No te preocupes, te ayudaré. siéntate.” (I will help you. Sit down….I surmise) He starts looking carefully out the window. Another 10 minutes and I’m getting nervous. All of a sudden he pulls the bus over and says, “ look taxi— go”. I hop off the bus and run towards the taxi on the side of the road. “Hola” He opens the door and we speed off. I tell him the train station. I follow him on google maps and he is going nowhere near where google maps has the train station. Train station I say again in broken Spanish. “Si si.”10 more minutes. Suddenly we pull up outside the train station. I make my train. I really can’t let this go and I research when this train station opened. 2007. The one the google maps identified as the station was replaced in 2007! Thanks google maps.

Act 2 next post, “Happy Birthday”

Thanks for following along!

Friends, family and food…Madrid week 2

I sit in my coffee house, Las Columnas, across the street. Jose brings me a steaming Americano and Alfredo tells me he had a lazy weekend.

I look out the window and see business men having their coffee standing up outside so they can smoke and sip.

I am determined to write, when I get a call from Nick who is in Lisbon. We are making plans for my birthday weekend in Madrid. But I am getting ahead of myself. Let me fill you in since I posted last.

Tuesday I check out Los 33 for lunch, a neighborhood restaurant getting a lot of press. I sit by the open window and enjoy a beautiful salad.

Two different people, Monica and Felipe, have sat at the table next to me and each tells me their favorite spots in Madrid. We scan our contact data in with WhatsApp QR code and suddenly I have two new people from whom to learn about Madrid. It’s a gorgeous day and after lunch I walk to Plaza Mayor to meet Tony, a local who attends law school here.

I met Tony at Cambridge this summer when we were both enthralled with Professor Phelan’s Philosophy of the Mind class. On the last day of class I learned Tony lives in Madrid! A great contact. We sit in the square for several hours. I learn alot from Tony about Spanish politics, customs and, of course, food. I head out later passing street musicians on my way to Pez, a very inexpensive popular tortilla restaurant which I learned about from Monica.

After polishing off the tortilla from Carlos, I order croquettes as my savory dessert.

On the way home, I see this outdoor sculpture which makes me laugh. The first week I was here I passed this same site and there was just dry rocks. One day I saw men “watering” the rocks with hoses and picking out the bad looking rocks. Ok, sorta odd. Now I see that was just a step in creating this beautiful path.

On Tony’s advice, on Wednesday I head out to Parque Oeste. It’s a much bigger park than Retiro and has beautiful overlooks. After lunch at Parlacete de Rosales in the middle of the park I go to see the Temple of Debod, a 2nd century BC temple, a gift to Madrid from Egypt for help in saving the temple from flooding when the Aswan dam was built.

Then I make a long detour to a flower market to gather flowers for Laura’s arrival tomorrow. Tonight I continue with my fun of meeting people that have been refers to me. Patricia who introduced me to Chris, has also made an introduction to Marta. It’s a very warm evening and I walk into the Castellana neighborhood to meet her. Marta is a high energy, articulate corporate recruiter-turned stay at home mom to her 3 year old son and his soon to be born brother. The place is empty when we arrive, but by the time we talk for almost two hours we look around and the place is full. Marta texted me later that I now have a new friend in Spain and I truly feel that. I can’t stress enough how much this “putting lines in the water” has enhanced my Shirleyfests all over the world.

It’s hard to sleep tonight because I am excited that Laura’s plane gets in at 7:45 tomorrow morning.

I see her cab coming and run downstairs. Even though my coffee shop is not open yet, Jose makes me two Americanos to go and we take them up to my apartment. Laura has visited me on about half my Shirleyfests and Mallory has made it to two. I’m hoping to get them both as visitors for many more Shirleyfests. We head off to Golda for a healthy breakfast and then wander through Retiro park.

We have lunch at Los 33 thanks to Mallory’s instagram sleuthing. It’s a LONG lunch with so many courses ( we order everything because we can’t decide).

Later we walk through Malapansa and check out the vintage shops. On the way back we feel called to by a local beer hang out. Empty at the start and 2 beers later…….full of people. We end that night at my favorite neighborhood restaurant Mudra.

On Friday I know Laura will love the photography exhibit as she is quite an accomplished photographer herself. A rooftop view and then we are off to explore La Latina neighborhood.

As you know from earlier posts I’m in love with the tapas at Juana la Loca and luckily we get in. I see my new friend Isabella the owner there and she is excited to meet Laura.

Tonight we do the vermouth tasting at Taberna Elisa.

We walk home through the beautifully lit Madrid at night.

Still hungry after our small plates at the vermouth bar, we finish the night at Delivinos, my local wine shop, where Marcello makes us a delicious cheese plate.

Saturday we try Natif for breakfast. Felipe has told us about this place and it does not disappoint.

Laura knows about Fundación Juan March in my neighborhood so we head there to look at sculptures.

The shopping in my neighborhood of Salamanca is exceptional and after a few hours of that we must stop for refreshment.

Later that night we go to Baraccuda for delicious tacos. Laura must leave Sunday morning and I am sad to see her go. She is a great visitor to Shirleyfest.

As her Uber pulls away, it starts to rain. I decide to hit La Rasto, the big big big outdoor market that is open only on Sunday mornings. I thought with the rain I would be the only one there, but it is full of people.

After scoring a few choice purchases, I come back to San Manuel y San Benito for mass. I always go to one movie during my month to see how similar or different the experience is in a new city. I decide this rainy day would be a perfect day to see the movie Oppenheimer. I go to Yelmo Cines Ideal where movies are shown in their original language.

I ask for a small popcorn and a small drink and immediately see that one similarity is that “small” in any movie house is enormous.

Oh well, it’s a three hour movie. As far as I can tell, I am the only English speaker in the theatre. The movie is subtitled in Spanish. I really like the movie and from what I can understand from the comments around me, it is a hit with this crowd.

Coming home I get to watch the finish of La Vuelta, a 21 day premier road cycling race. It’s quite festive with flags and banners and loud! I love it. An American wins ( Sepp Kuss)!

Later, I go to ultra hip restaurant HER ( because it is on Calle Hermosilla). The food is great, but because it is new, the service has some kinks.

Monday I go near the river, the Manzanares neighborhood, where there is an art complex called Matadero Madrid. It’s a former slaughterhouse that now houses contemporary art.

I spend the day there and also enjoy shopping in a new neighborhood. Later that night I try a new wine bar called Gota. I really like it as it has turntables embedded in the bar. Music, tapas and wine…what’s not to like. I spend time talking to Maddie from Boston and Julian from Buenos Aires. I love the vibe of this place.

Tomorrow I am interviewing the Chief Concierge of the Mandarin Oriental Madrid. Stay tuned for that post and further updates on my visit to Toledo and my birthday weekend with visitors from Lisbon! Thanks for following along on my Madrid adventure.

Madrid…..It’s the little things

At this point in Shirleyfest, I usually find myself asking, “Why is this city so appealing?” It’s been a different answer every year. About 10:30 last night, I am sitting at Alimentacion Quiroga when it really hit me. It’s the little things that happen in Madrid. This is a cheese and wine shop from the 50s that is also a local hangout for a glass of wine and small plates, especially cheese tastings.

It is about a 25 minute walk from my apartment and it is a beautiful night.

I arrive and the place is alive with people. The manager, Leonardo, makes room for me at a community table up front. I know I want a glass of Trus, a Tempranillo wine from the Ribera region, but what shall I eat? Beside me a man sitting with two women gently moves his cheese tasting plate toward me and offers for me to try what they have chosen. He tells me his name is Robert and he owns a tequila bar in this neighborhood. It is such a small gesture, but given with a broad encouraging smile. It’s the little things. I realize that this type of joyful encouragement has happened day after day to me in Madrid. People here seem very happy and more than willing to share that happiness generously in small quiet ways.

So what have I been up to since I last posted? First of all, you need to know that I found my “first thing in the morning” and “last thing at night” places. As I have explained in prior year’s posts, these two touchstones are really important. My morning place in Madrid is happily directly across the street from my apartment. It’s called Las Columnas de Recoletos. I go there for my coffee and to say hello to Alfredo, Jose and Manuel, get the latest neighborhood news and any ideas for the day.

My goodnight place is Delivinos, on my corner and owned by Jacinto and his wife Magi who happen to also live in my building. I can stop in at the end of my day, have a drink and a snack and I feel like someone knows I’m home.

Thursday I was at the Prado Museum. The Prado is widely considered the world’s finest collection of European Art and one of the greatest art museums in the world. Having spent my career in mathematics, science and law, my left brain got a constant workout. My right brain not so much. One of the driving forces of Shirleyfest is to pump up my right brain. Madrid with its amazing art museums is the perfect prescription. Because I am here a month, I buy a membership to the major museums so I can visit in many small spurts.

I get a lot more out of the art if I spend 45 minutes there many times than all afternoon at once. Today I hung out with the Goya, Hieronymus Bosch and Ruben for a little while.

I stop for a snack of iberico ham on toast at Verso y Veta to sustain me until dinner. As I’m leaving, I study the various types of hams hanging for people to purchase and the man in charge stops me and offers to let me try all of them so I will know the difference. Yes, please!

I stop into the beautiful Parroquia de la Concepción de Nuestra Senora.

Later it’s dinner at Mudra with my favorite server Mayte.

Friday, I am over by the Royal Palace which is crowded with people in the square. In the corner though, there is an entrance to something new. It turns out it is the brand new Royal Collections Museum. I have heard this was to open in 2023 and here I am, one of the few people who knows it actually is open. No line, many smiling helpers to guide you in. It is a historical narrative running through fifteen centuries of the evolution of Spain as a nation. It’s all underground, beautiful curated and except for my general rule to not spend too long inside a museum , this is one where I could stay all day.

I see a lot and then the rumblings of my stomach make me leave. I know that there is a well regarded tapas restaurant called Juana la Loca nearby. I go there and it is very busy and smells amazing. Fortunately a table opens up quickly and I am soon diving in to my best tapas yet.

I notice a beautiful woman who is talking to everyone and I’m guessing she is a local.

Later I leave the restaurant and I see her on the street. We smile at each other in recognition. “ Are you associated with the restaurant?” , I ask, in what I think is a clever way of finding out her role. “ I’m the owner”, she says. We then talk on the street for quite a while about Madrid, Uruguay ( where she was born), Shirleyfest and politics. It was another warm interaction.

Speaking of warm, I really couldn’t pass up the warm chocolate and churros at San Giles.

Later I need to buy a toaster and my new friend Chris tells me I can buy one at Corte Inglés nearby. I put it into Google Maps and it’s a 40 minute walk. It reveals my personality to say that I said, “oh that is nearby.” But then I see the metro only takes 6 minutes. I have a metro card and I’ve already walked 22,000 steps today so I head to that metro station. When my card doesn’t work, the stationmaster says, “this is not a metro station, this is a Train Station”. oops. Ok I buy a train ticket and 6 minutes later, I emerge from underground and I am at the largest department store I ever been in. Where am I? It’s like I went to California’s East Bay suburbs. In the basement it’s like Harrod’s food hall and then floor after floor of everything you could imagine from Chanel to Creuset. Amazing! By the way, I later learn that there was in fact another location of this department store a 10 minute walk from my apartment. Oops again.

Saturday I go a little west to have brunch at Golda, in the Justica neighborhood. I meet Caterina and Vivian who go out of their way to make me feel at home.

Shopping later in the neighborhood, I am struck by how many eco-friendly stores are located there.

I pass by the Cathedral of Santa Barbara and stop in. On my way out I see this beautiful lady coming to mass.

Walking home I see an auto show and go in to take a few pictures for my car loving brother, John.

I spy Quintin for lunch and am able to get in thanks to the lovely Belin who can tell I’m starving. It’s a happening place. I am surprised when a man with a large dog ( named Google) asks for a table for two.

That night I want to see the photograph exhibit at Círculo de Bellas Artes. I approach and there is a really long line. I go up to ask how long the wait is for the exhibit. The man says there is no wait at all. Come right in . He tells me my 5 euro ticket to the exhibit is also good for me to go to the rooftop lounge when I am finished at the exhibit. Wow! “So what are the people in line for?”I ask. Oh they just want to go to the rooftop lounge. I have to stop myself from going back to the line and telling the people, “ the skip the line move here is to see the photography exhibit”……but I don’t. I would have created an insurrection.

The rooftop is so much fun. People were super friendly and I joined them and good conversation ensues.

I stop in at Divalino’s for my nightcap and Saturday is a wrap.

Sunday, I attend mass at Iglesia de San Manuel y San Benito a few blocks away.

Afterwards I walk to Retiro to attend a classical concert in the park.

I head across the park to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. I’m going to commit heresy and say I prefer this museum to the famous Prado. It has a wide variety of artists and a special exhibit that was breathtaking.

Time to try what I’ve heard a lot about since I came to Madrid…Vermut! I don’t think of Vermut ( Vermouth to us Yanks) as a cocktail by itself. Well it is here! I go to the 1907 Vermut bar Elisa for my first taste. I learn from bartender Laura that there’s a special vermut on tap. She and I have a great conversation and I learn so much about vermut ( and her!). Such an enjoyable experience.

Monday, I stroll through the vintage shops as my Laura is coming to visit this week and I know she’ll be interested.

I stop at the historic Bodega de la Ardosa established in 1892 for tapas. Then later at Misión Cafe for coffee and dessert.

I have a ticket for a guided tour of the Royal Palace. Thankfully I bought my ticket online which allows immediate entrance. Theresa gives us a terrific 2 hour tour of the main rooms of the Palace….we see about 30 rooms and there are 2,300 rooms in the palace. The current king of Spain, Felipe VI, and his family do not use this Palace except for State dinners and certain National events. They live in the Prince’s Pavillion on the grounds of the Zarzuela Palace on the outskirts of Madrid.

Which brings up back to the beginning…my enjoyable evening at Alimentation Quirgoa. These last 5 days have been such a treat of food, art and most of all meeting people and learning about life in Madrid. I’ll continue my explorations and update you again. Thanks for reading. It’s the little things.

Madrid es magnifica

There are a few sprinkles on Saturday as the taxi whisks me from the airport to my new home in the Salamanca area of Madrid. What a pleasant surprise when we pull up to an elegant building on a tree- lined street. I meet the first of 4 doormen I will soon come to know..…Alejandro. Through the lobby, I enter a charming courtyard and then quickly I am in my apartment being shown around by Rebecca. Very modern with two big bedrooms, 3 elegant bathrooms, a super kitchen ( including a washer/dryer and dishwasher) and a gorgeous living room with a balcony to the tree-lined street. Ahhh- it’s perfect!

A shower and change of clothes and then I’m off to a dinner reservation nearby at Baraccuda MX. I always make a nice dinner reservation ahead of time for my first night. That way I stay up and get on local time, plus there is nothing worse than getting to a strange city and trying to figure out where to go for dinner.

It’s only a 6 minute walk, but the rain has really started coming down so I’m a bit soaked when I arrive. No problem, though. I meet bartenders Alhan and Danny and hostess Daniella makes sure I get a nice seat at the bar. To make up for my sogginess, they send over little treats, including chips and very spicy jalapeño chili sauce. After a glass of Verdejo and a conversation with Alhan ( mostly about his girlfriend who has returned to Minnesota, but also his suggestions for some great bars in Madrid), I choose the Carracci Ibérico pastor tacos with tomatillo and chipotle sauce.

It’s a great start to Shirleyfest even though I did get drenched on that run back to the apartment.

The next day is Sunday and I want to check out Mercado San Miguel, a covered market originally built in 1916. Vendors are selling olives, tapas, gorgeous pastries and lots of different drinks.

I’m getting civic alerts every 15 minutes on my phone that Madrid is having a serious rainstorm, but to me it just seems like the storms we used to have in Indiana. Ignoring the alert that people should stay home, I’m in search of Casa Lucio in the La Latina district to see if I can get in for lunch. The restaurant has a storied past and a glamorous present. It was once home to a hundred year old restaurant where Lucio Blázquez began to work at age 12. Many years later the original owner sold the restaurant to Lucio. The King of Spain, movie stars, US presidents and just regular folks all love it. I love that despite no reservation I was able to score a seat at the bar. A plate of olives and one plump anchovy are brought to me as I study the menu. I already know I have to have the Spanish omelette with its three perfect ingredients: eggs, onions and new potatoes.

Next to me are a delightful couple, Elena and Andres from Zaragoza. Between google translate and broken Spanish and English we have a fun conversation.

After lunch, I explore the La Latina area thru lightening and thunder. Later that night, I have dinner in my neighborhood and as I’m walking home I see this:

A donut shop! Donuts were a food group when I was growing up and I can’t pass up this opportunity. I meet 23 year old Max (in his last year of university) who has started this shop and it’s taking off!

So that’s how the first 24 hours looks on this year’s Shirleyfest.

In the subsequent 3 days I manage to walk miles and miles, eat so much good food and laugh a great deal. Here are some of the highlights.

Monday

A walking tour with Enrique. Standard procedure for me is to book a walking tour early on. Enrique is quite informative and very funny. Some of the things I see on our tour:

Botin-the oldest continuous restaurant in the world

The tour is over and I’m starving. Suddenly I recall seeing that there is a Michelin restaurant next door to my apartment. Mudra. Again I get lucky and waltz right in. Here’s my ricotta stuffed pasta.

Later that evening I go for a short walk in the sunshine to the museum Reine Sofia

Guernica-doesn’t get any more famous then this

I leave the museum and head to a pool and rooftop bar called Oscars for a little dinner and drinks.

Tuesday

I stroll through Retiro park which is minutes from my apartment. Reminds me of Central Park.

After the park, I visit the Church of San Jerónimo de Real which is the remaining structure of the Hieronymite monastery that once stood beside the royal palace of Buen Retiro

Time for lunch! Is it pressing my luck to try the nearby Vinoteca Moratin! Nope. The owner Marcos Gil warmly greets me as if I’m an old friend. He gives me the window table and then proceeds to go over the menu in great detail. I leave it up to him and I’m glad I do.

An amuse-bouche of roasted new potatoes with smoked paprika

I am really impressed with this restaurant and Marcos and his small staff. Every table is taken but there is a calmness that makes dining here such a joy. After coffee Marcos and I take a picture together.

Now I do some shopping in this area known as Barrio de las Letras. I need to get home pretty soon as tonight I get to do one of my favorite things I do on Shirleyfest—-meet someone new that lives here. In all my Shirleyfests this has proven the most rewarding and enduring element. Not only do I get to understand what it is like to live in my host city, many of these new acquaintances become friends that I see after I leave.

My friend Patricia in California has kindly connected me with her friend Christopher, a Brit who has lived and worked in Madrid since 2012. We meet first for drinks at a local tapas place where it is readily apparent that while Christopher may be British, his Spanish is nothing short of perfection. I mean when you can tell a waiter that a fly has landed in my glass of wine and have a new glass of wine quickly procured, you are fluent! That’s not the sort of sentence you learn in Duolingo. Christopher learned that I love middle eastern food so he kindly has gotten us into Barganzo, a popular and quite lively Israeli restaurant. You would think I couldn’t eat again after that lunch, but I had more than my share of the many delicious dishes we ordered. Christopher is so much fun and we have lots of laughs! We part knowing we will see each other again during my stay.

Wednesday

My friends Sharon and Dan mentioned they enjoyed Museo Sorolla so I decide to walk up there. I wasn’t disappointed! It was the garden, home and studio of the famous Spanish painter Joaquin Sorolla y Bastia and houses the largest collection of his works. Many of his paintings are people and landscapes under the bright sunlight of Spain and Spanish beaches.

Since I’ve already walked up to the Chamberi neighborhood I decide to explore Mercado Vallehermosa. It’s smaller than Mercado San Miguel but in many ways I like it better. It has some excellent restaurants but it also sells fish, vegetables and produce.

Time to start the long walk back to my neighborhood. Fortunately halfway home is a tapas restaurant that I want to try. It’s called La Musa. I had a selection of small plates and I can highly recommend it for a tasty lunch.

The shopping on the second half of my walk back was exceptional in the Salamanca neighborhood. So was the gelato I get later this night.

So that my friends is the first 4 days of Shirleyfest Madrid. I’m glad I have many more days to enjoy this fantastic city! Please follow along with me as I explore this delightful city.

London Calling: My interview with Raffaele Ruocco, General Manager of the new Westin London City

I arrive at London Heathrow on an overnight flight from San Francisco. I am ultimately heading to Cambridge to immerse myself in philosophy courses (more on that later), but first stop is four days at the sparkling new Westin London City.

I am intrigued to interview Raffaele Ruocco, the General Manager, to find out why an American brand hotel is getting rave reviews in London, a city known for its iconic hotels. I spend the morning with Raffaele and now I understand exactly why. Raffaele is passionate about the guest experience and also about the hotel’s role in revitalizing this unique area of London.

We meet at the beautiful Mosaic lounge which has floor to ceiling glass overlooking the River Thames.

Over espresso, I learn that whether it is nature or nurture, Raffaele is destined to lead this exciting new property. Born into a family that has been in the hospitality business for years, Raffaele is continuing in his family’s footsteps. After graduation from Università degli Studi di Palermo, he begins his career in Rome and Milan, rising through a variety of positions in the hotel business. He arrives in London in 2018 when he is recruited to the Conrad London St. James Hotel as the Food and Beverage Director. In 2021, there was an exciting buzz in the hotel business. Westin was going to open its very first property in the UK. And the property was not in the typical tourist area of Knightsbridge or Mayfair. Strategically located over old Roman baths, Westin was opening in the City of London. The start-up general manager knew just who he wanted for his #2. Raffaele Ruocco. Raffaele took on the challenge and during that first year devotes himself to every detail of the strategy of making this new property a success. One year later, he is recognized for his efforts and made General Manager.

I enjoy our conversation because Raffaele is so passionate about this unique property and its staff, guests, vendors and partners. Like many cities, the financial district of London became less busy and less vibrant when Covid resulted in many office workers working remotely. That is why, if it was going to succeed, Westin London City needed to attract both tourists and business clientele based on offering something unique to its guests. One of the areas Raffaele focused on was design. I had taken the new Elizabeth Line from Heathrow to nearby Liverpool Station and then jumped into a taxi. I arrive at the lobby and am not sure if I am in a garden, a museum or a hotel. A sweeping atrium greets me with sculptures and plants everywhere. As I make my way to reception, I am constantly surrounded by nature. Planters and walls of moss and fresh foliage make the space inviting and welcoming.

Simone checks me in after offering me a glass of Prosecco. I am wowed by his professionalism, but I learn during my 4 days here that Raffaele has instilled that quality in all of his hires. Simone walks me to my room, but first shows me the beautiful spa. There are five treatment rooms, a pool, a thermal suite, a well appointed gym, and a relaxation room. After eleven hours on the plane I am already starting to relax.

Once in my room, I note that the bed is made up to my specifications (no duvets for me…I prefer blankets). Oh but what is that noise? As you will recall from my last hotel review in Siracusa, I am quite sensitive to noise. It appears to be some sort of fan noise. I try to disable it but cannot . I call down to reception and within 10 minutes an engineer is in my room disabling the noise. This is only the second time in all my hotel stays that I have been taken seriously and had the noise eliminated (the last was in fact the Grand Hotel des Étrangers in Siracusa). I am very pleased!

The hotel is a bit of a maze. It is part of the redevelopment of the Queenhithe Dock, which is the oldest in London. The hotel runs north to south, going across Upper Thames Street and therefore it has a gorgeous position over one of the main routes through the City of London. The design team did a magnificent job in making the bridge between the two sides a lovely reception area and home to the aforementioned Mosaic Restaurant. From the South Bank, the hotel has panoramic views over the River Thames. The riverbank walkway outside goes between the Tower of London and Millennium Bridge.

Having gotten settled in my room, I decide to walk over the bridge to the South Bank for lunch. Immediately on the other side of the bridge is the Tate Modern, one of my favorite museums in London. But I am hungry, so I head for Capricci, an Italian restaurant recommended by my friend Nick. I am not disappointed as I meet the owner Lorenzo and start to get over jet lag with a lovely pasta and wine.

Refreshed, I walk through the Borough’s Market and along the South Bank and admire the cityscape.

To get on London time as quickly as possible, I later join a London Walks’ pub crawl. I discovered London Walks when I spent Shirleyfest in London in 2012. Led by expert guides there are usually 5 to 6 walks at all hours of the day and evening. For a reasonable 15 GBP you can join the group and be entertained while getting some steps in. And in my case…some pints in.

I have a full day the next day. I meet my friend Kevin for lunch at the Walkie-Talkie building ( real name is The Fenchurch Building). Fantastic views and delicious food at the Sky Garden Restaurant.

Kevin works at the Financial Times and he graciously takes me over there after lunch and we enjoy the FT rooftop garden.

I scoot to meet my friends Huw and Deirdre at the museum at the Barbican Centre. There is a three decade photography exhibition of Carrie Mae Weems. It is provocative and educational and well, beautiful.

We walk all over the area.

Afterwards we have a pint near Brick Lane at The English Restaurant before having a delicious laughter-filled dinner together at Babel.

The next day is a free day and I am delighted to roam. I head over to stroll around SoHo and return to one of my favorite spots, Barrafina. For some reason, I have the magic touch with this popular place. As has happened several times before, I queue up and prepare for the wait when I am picked out of the line and told to come inside. Right smack dab in the middle of the counter I am given a menu and before long enjoying the tapas that makes me return time and time again.

Afterwards I head over to Chelsea and visit my old Shirleyfest apartment, local pub and engage in some nostalgia.

That night I ramble the other way along the South Bank and see the Bee Hive (City Hall).

I find myself at a restaurant recommended by Raffaele….Brigadiers. I am offered a table but prefer to eat at the bar. The food is Indian and spicy and divine. Wimbledon is on in the bar area and I end up watching it a bit with my new acquaintance Nalesh.

Walking home, I notice Enoteca da Luca and decide to stop in. There I meet the lovely Alessandro. I see they have Sicilian wines and I’m intrigued having gotten back recently from Sicily. The entire night turns out to be a party as the owner, Roberto, is also at the bar and also a chef from one of his other restaurants. Waiters Normi and Paula join in the fun. I walk the few blocks back to the hotel with the light of St Paul’s Cathedral guiding me.

My friends Nick and Ivan arrive tomorrow. I take the Elizabeth Line far out to the west and Nick meets me at the Woolwich train station. It’s an intriguing area built as a separate community on the South Bank. After a bite at the cute cafe, we pick up Ivan and grab an Uber boat to get back to the city for dinner at the 125 year old seafood restaurant J. Sheekey.

How have I not eaten here before now? It’s a classic restaurant and Nick and Ivan are regulars. Champagne is immediately poured and we have a delicious meal. We have to hurry now as we are going to see Carbaret. The production has turned the Playhouse Theatre into the Kit Kat Club and it’s a wonderful musical.

I take the tube back to my hotel and as I cross the bridge I see Mosaic’s maitre d’ , Mathew, and bartender Naim.

They are so welcoming and friendly. I feel like I am home. At the front desk Giulia welcomes me home. There is nothing more relaxing than feeling like you are “home” when you are a guest at a hotel.

The next day, I call a cab to the train station to head to Cambridge. Turns out there is a marathon in the city and many of the roads are blocked. The young man helping me, Gabor, goes well beyond the call of duty and doesn’t abandon me. We go back upstairs and across the bridge to yet another exit where he hails another cab from an area not affected by the race. This brings me full circle back to what makes this hotel so special. Raffael has instilled a genuine desire to go out of the way for guests and make the experience stress free. The space, the amenities but most of all the people make for a stress-free relaxing experience. I will return to London and this is where I will stay.

Now I’m off to Cambridge to immerse myself in the study of philosophy. I think therefore I am.

#Westin London City

#Capricci Restaurant

#London Walks

#Barrafina

#Brigadiers Restaurant

#J. Sheekey Restaurant

#Enoteca da Luca

SIRACUSA, ITALY: NO STRANGERS AT GRAND HOTEL DES ÉTRANGERS

The best thing about Grand Hotel des Étrangers in Siracusa is that the General Manager Rosario Rubino is committed to the goal that every guest has a warm and elegant Sicilian experience.

I recently returned from nearly three weeks in Sicily. In a subsequent post, I will elaborate on the amazing 100 mile hike I completed with my friends. It is called the Magna Via Francigena.

After the strenuous hike, I want to go somewhere in Sicily and relax in beautiful surroundings. I choose Ortigia, a small Baroque island and the historic center of Siracusa. After much research I select the Grand Hotel des Étrangers for my stay and I am so very glad that I do. I check into my beautiful room with a balcony overlooking the sea.

I have an appointment to interview the General Manager. His name is Rosario Rubino. Within minutes of arriving at the hotel, he meets me on the beautiful rooftop of the hotel.

Mr. Rubino is not just the General Manager of this hotel, but Group General Manager of all the properties in the Luxury Private Properties Group. This includes the Ashbee in Tauromino and the Excelsior Palace in Palermo. He has spent his entire career in the hospitality industry and it shows. He warmly greets me and welcomes me to Ortigia. From the first moment, he conveys to me that he genuinely wants me to understand not only the hotel’s unique message, but what makes this part of Sicily so special. Being Italian, of course there is no conversation that doesn’t include food and wine. A few minutes after settling in and admiring the view, the hotel’s chef, Paolo, comes out to say hello.

Paolo indicates that he is preparing a “little something”. Well the “little something” turns out to be an array of delicious plates. The Sicilian traditional arancini was paired with piping hot cod fritters. A plate of chickpea flatbread arrives. Four gorgeous appetizers plates include samples of the local fishes, olives and homemade focaccia and crackers. And of course a local refreshing wine from Mt Etna is poured.

As with all my Shirleyfest property interviews, I am curious to know what makes this place unique. Rosario without hesitation tells me that his group is not selling rooms, they are offering experiences. He has a commitment to instill in all of the staff here a single vision: “We want to share a vision of surprise and elation with our guests.” He hopes that every guest will feel special during their stay. I ask how he does this. Quality. Quality. Quality. Quality in hiring, quality in food, quality in furniture selection, quality in assistance with very guests unique needs. To do this he wants to understand the individual needs of his guests. The focus must be on the guests and everything else will naturally flow. This goes beyond the four walls of the hotel. For example, as with many luxury hotels, guests often ask for restaurant recommendations. His view is that any restaurant they recommend is a partner in the guest experience with them. Since the restaurant will be an extension of the stay, he wants to know the restauranteurs personally and to obtain their commitment to a quality experience for his guests. I ask him for the name of one of his favorite restaurants on the island. Don Camillo he answers easily. A few nights later my friends and I dine there and we all agree it is an amazing experience.

Other highlights of my time in Siracusa include a stroll through the market where I yearn to have a Siracusa apartment and kitchen to take all these beautiful ingriendents home to cook.

Also a walking tour of the island where all the ancient mythology was explained by Gloria our tour guide and many of the lovely churches explored.

One morning I walked 30 minutes off the island to the Neapolis Archaeological Park and saw ancient greek theatre and quarries.

They did a Dolce &Gabbana shoot right here ( a girl can dream can’t she?)

Greek Theatre built in the 5th Century BC

Another day, I slowly worked way around the island and through almost every one of the narrow streets to people watch and stop for delicious bites.

Moon Restaurant means Move Out Of Normalcy

On my last day, I was buying some lovely Italian dresses in a boutique. The owner, Paola had a helper, Betty, who turned out to be the girlfriend of her son, Pietro. Pietro owns a restaurant nearby, so I reserved for dinner that night. It was an ancient building with a lovely courtyard and delicious food. It is called Cantina Rampa. Betty came and had a glass of wine with me and we talked of many things. When it got slower, Pietro came and told me the story of the restaurant. He told me how quiet the island got during Covid and how he could hear the sea from his apartment everyday because so few people were living in the town. I got his recipe for swordfish and after many hugs ( and finding they had treated me to the copious amounts wine I had enjoyed) we said our goodbyes.

Back at the hotel I started to pack. I realize that the message I got from Rosario is that there is a single-mindedness about the guests here getting the full experience of their stay…all elements are part of that experience. Rosario also uses a word I like alot. Dignity. He believes that if the staff is treated with dignity, then the guests will be treated with dignity. I really felt that during my stay. In the breakfast room, Eva and Christina greeted me each day as if I were family coming down to breakfast. And oh what a breakfast. And one day when I had selected one too many pastries, Eva whisked it away and came back with it stored in a beautifully wrapped package, “for later”.

Giovanni in the front office could not have been more accommodating. A great example—lately many fine hotels that I have stayed in have a continuous fan in the bathrooms. I detest this noise. I have inquired repeatedly about how to make this noise cease and 100% of the time I have been told, “Sorry, that is not possible.” Never giving up, I noticed this low fan noise in my beautiful room at Des Étrangers and mentioned it hopefully to Giovanni. “The engineers will fix it to your satisfaction” were the words that came immediately out of his mouth. And they did! Within the hour! I was shocked and oh so happy. Wemerson, Maitre of the bar and dining room, could not have been more accommodating. One night the three of us ate in the gorgeous rooftop dining room. Having drinks first on the outside deck, my drink order was remembered without a word and then he professionally and warmly served us one of the best meals of our trip.

From Luigi, the assistant manager, to Marco to Monica to Chiara to Giuseppe to Anna and Davide and many more, the staff could not have been more gracious and helpful.

One final note, I asked Rosario for his perfect day in Siracusa. He told me he would wake up and have a run around the beautiful island and then have the hotel’s luscious breakfast. He would then take a boat to the lighthouse and to a little beach club/restaurant called Punta Magdalena. After a few hours he would return by boat and do some shopping in the historic city center ( I’m partial to Max Mara and also the Paola’s boutique) He would return and have apertivo on the hotel’s rooftop deck and finish with dinner either at their restaurant, Clou, or at Don Camillo. Sounds perfect to me too.

I felt so taken care of at Grand Hotel des Étrangers that I was despondent when I finally had to leave to catch my plane. I take one more trip up to the rooftop and one more look off my balcony to the sea.

There is no doubt that I will be back to Siracusa and there is no doubt where I will stay.

Ciao my dear readers.

Madrid aqui vengo!

This year’s choice for Shirleyfest ends up being easy and starts out hard. I always have a running list in my head of next Shirleyfest cities. In consideration for 2023 are Tel Aviv, Auckland, Singapore, Vancouver, Hanoi and a few others. I am running down the pros and cons of each of them when a friend tosses out Toulouse. Highly intrigued, I investigate neighborhoods and apartments and surprisingly I couldn’t get any thoughtful responses. It’s a sign I say. I turned to Tel Aviv where lines in the water reveal a number of people willing to help me. Apartments seem plentiful and owners are responsive. Then several local people mention the number of holidays occurring during my month there and how that could be an impediment to a free wheeling Shirleyfest. Hmmmm.

As fate would have it, I have dinner with a friend visiting San Francisco and he tells me of the wonderful time he recently had in Madrid. Madrid! I haven’t been to Madrid for years and then it was only for a week. I start to investigate. World renowned art museums, a vibrant food scene, a transportation rail hub, enviable nightlife, ancient history……and then I come across Heminway’s love of Madrid.

Hemingway was a huge Madrid fan. The American writer spent a lot of time in Madrid. He was known to love Paris and he lived in Cuba, but Madrid was the center of his world. He adored bullfights, the nightlife in Madrid and loved spending time in Madrid’s countless cafés. He was a regular in Madrid’s oldest restaurant Sobrino de Botín(which also happens to be the oldest restaurant in the world) and in Madrid’s famous sherry bar La Venencia. He is quoted as saying, “I have never been to a city where there are fewer reasons to go to bed and if I did go to bed, to sleep.”

Ok that does it..Madrid it is. I’ll start building my own Shirleyfest book about Madrid and finding the perfect apartment, but please feel free to pass along any ideas you have for me. And of course I’ll be putting lines in the water to meet people so don’t hesitate to connect me with people you know in Madrid.

Sent from my iPhone

Bye Bye Bologna

It is too soon to say I miss Bologna, because so much of Bologna is still in the front of my consciousness. I still feel the energy from the street below my window ( I’m the fifth story apartment with the lights on in two windows).

I still smell the strong coffee and bombolone at Terzi.

My mind walks through Piazza Maggiore to Simoni for a drink and I recall Kajo, the manager, calling out to me as he has a cigarette before starting work.

I’m still getting WhatsApp messages from Ela and Giorgio and Christain and Frederico. It is too soon to be sad about not having pasta for every lunch and dinner.

My last week has been very local Bologna. Nick was here one last day and he went to mass with me at the Cathedral.

He isn’t Catholic but he speaks Italian so he was able to tell me afterwards that the homily was about all people having an important place in the world. Something so evident in my daily life here in Bologna.

Afterwards we know exactly where our place should be. We head for Trattoria Giampu e Ciccio.

As we approach, the owner calls out , “Ciao San Francisco!”. He had met me at Nonna Rosa a few days before and remembers me. His grandfather started the restaurant and there is a picture on the wall which translates to his grandfather having won a baby beauty contest.

They fit us into a crowded dining room and his wife Paula suggest we start with the Crostini com friggione ( toasted bread with onions and tomatoes soup).

It is fresh tomatoes cooked down for 5 hours with onions to make a delicious topping for the warm bread. Along with caprese we have Passatelli ( pancetta, arugula, and lemon) and the most delicious lasagna.

Once again Nick is very bad and orders chocolate cake dessert with marscapone.

In the afternoon Nick and I stroll around Bologna and check out the Prendiparte Tower, a medieval tower turned into a bed and breakfast.

Later we visit a hard to describe modern art exhibit. We enjoy it even tho the guard as we entered made a sign to us like it was “crazy”. After one more coffee Nick must leave. After meeting Nick for the first time in Berlin 9 years ago, I have seen him in Copenhagen, Umbria, Palo Alto, San Francisco, Amsterdam, and we even hiked Yosemite together two days before the pandemic started in 2020.

I know we will connect again before too long.

I return to my place and I am happy to hear my neighbor the opera singer practicing away upstairs. He had introduced himself to me as Greg from Rochester, NY. Turns out he is a famous tenor and one of the most accomplished singers on the international opera stage today. He is appearing in two operas in Bologna this summer. Luisa Miller and Otello. Everyday I hear beautiful music from him when I’m in my apartment.

Later I try Ela’s suggestion of pizza at Altero. It is delicious but I ordered way too much.

The next day I am up early and I’m determined to walk to Le serre in Giardini Margherita. It is hard to describe this amazing space. It was born of an abandoned greenhouse. A non profit Kilowatt put it back to life. There is a co-working space, a vegetable garden, a bistro called Vetro, an outdoor movie screen, and a very cool bar. People are working and playing all around me.

I grab a salad and just sit and absorb this fantastic space. I lament why we don’t have this type of set up in all our parks.

I head back, as friends of mine from Sonoma have a daughter studying in Florence and she is coming for a visit. Stella arrives and I take the opportunity to introduce her to Bologna. After a while we stop at Simoni where of course a table is always available for me and after ordering drinks, little appetizers are sent over as a welcome gift for Stella.

I tell her about Le serre and she is interested, so for the second time that day I am in the park.

After aperol spritzes at my place we head to Trattoria Giampu e Ciccio again and sit outside.

Time flies and before long Stella must literally run for the last train back to Florence. It is great fun to be the “local” introducing Stella to Bologna.

The next day I am to meet Giorgia and her friend Alessandro. When I arrive at the appointed spot I am surprised to see Giorgia is in a car.

She has borrowed her mother’s car to drive outside the city to a famous breakfast spot called Gino Fabbri. Just when I thought pastries could not get any better she introduces me to these amazing Calzones and sweets. We have long conversations about careers, life and love and the time flies.

Giorgia ask if we would be ok going to a local butcher shop with her. Of course. Little did we know we would spend hours in the shop without buying any meat, but drinking lots of champagne and eating until we thought we would bust. Let me explain. Giorgia met Teddy the owner when he came to her wine bar in Bologna. He had a shirt on saying Teddy the Butcher. When she admired it, he simply took it off in the wine bar and gave it to her. A friendship was born.

Teddy is there with his sister Maria and their shop Macelleria Teddy is known for the highest quality of products.

I look around and since I love to cook I can attest that what is in the case are beautiful cuts of meat. At first we mill about while customers come in for their steaks and sausages. Teddy dutifully fulfills the orders.

All of a sudden, Teddy has a bottle of champagne on a barrel and pours us all a glass.

That is followed by bringing out more champagne and the mortadella which is followed by aged parmesean cheese. Pretty soon Teddy’ s nephew Alessandro has arrived to work/drink champagne and Teddy makes us sandwiches as other family members arrive to join in the fun.

No matter how much I eat and drink, everyone says “You must have more”. Teddy also insist on giving us all tshirts saying Macelleria Da Teddy ( the butcher Teddy). I really feel like I must be in a movie. I can’t imagine having this must fun at any butcher shop in America.

Back in the city I’m trying to decide how to spend my last night. It is tempting to go hang out with the Simoni crowd, or with Christain at the Gallery, or even to see if Greg the opera singer needs a wine break. In the end I decide I just want to quietly walk through the city. I head down Via Santa Stefano and just people watch. At one point I come to a beautiful chapel in a courtyard that I’ve never seen.

It’s called Cappella del S. S. Sacramento. I tiptoe in and see a few people in this tiny chapel singing.

It is so touching. Walking on, I see a door that says Ancelle del S. cuore di Gesu. I push on the door and see this beautiful little church in the dark.

These are so pretty and I never noticed them before today. I’ve been here a month and I haven’t even scratched the surface. I end with a glass of wine in the park and contemplate how soon I can return to beautiful welcoming Bologna.

I really appreciate my readers and their many comments. It makes it like a conversation. If you want to comment, all you have to do is go back up and click the title of the post and a comment box will appear at the end of the article. You don’t have to sign in to leave a comment. Hope you do!

La Dolce Vita

It always happens around week 3. I now know my way around logistically and can slip down back alleys to avoid the crowds. I know shopkeepers and restauranteurs and baristas. They call out to me when I pass by. Here is Lorenzo at my everyday 8 am coffeehouse Terzi.

I can easily grocery shop, buy stamps, get my hair cut, nails done, go to mass, and arrange for take out if I want it. All this inevitably leads to a growing thought in my mind……maybe I should move here! It happened in Melbourne. It happened in Montréal. It happened in Vienna. It happened in Amsterdam. You get the picture. But nowhere has this been more on my mind than Bologna. It truly is la dolce vita…the sweet life!

My new report starts with last Sunday morning when I get up early to take pictures of the city waking up. Turns out some people are up way before me as there is a marathon race in the city.

The route is right by city hall and the other early risers are couples getting married at city hall. Lots of couples. But unlike in the US where getting married at city hall means the couple and maybe two witnesses, each of the weddings I saw queued up had hordes of celebrants in the queue with them.

I cross over and see that mass is about to start at the Cathedral of Bologna. It’s a beautiful Baroque church constructed on a site where a cathedral has stood since 1028. I take my place and I’m astonished to see the large number of celebrants of the mass.

I have in mind the Michelin restaurant Osteria Bartolini for after mass and I am not disappointed. It is well known for its seafood so I go for the Taglioli al Ragu blanco di pesce….pasta with a mixture of white seafood in the sauce. The restaurant is gorgeous inside and also outside with a large garden to sit in.

Having had a large lunch, dinner is a perfect time to investigate one of Bologna’s four speciality sandwich shops that I’ve yet to try. There is Tigellino,Piadeina, Murtadella and Mortadella Lab. This one, Murtadella, sells a classic mortadella sandwich with burrata and arugula.

Monday I’m invited to tour the Università di Bologna campus by the delightful Vittoria. A gorgeous campus and beautiful views of the city. I mean it’s no Purdue …but it is beautiful.

I want to go to the Teatro Manzoni tonight to hear the Filarmonic. There are two featured performers, one playing the violino and the other the violoncello and it is rare to have this combination in this type of performance. Getting the ticket is hilarious. I go when the box office opens. They have a good seat, but they won’t sell it until one hour before the performance and I need a certain type of mask which I don’t have and they tell me I must go to the pharmacy and buy it. I do and I have dinner at one of my nice local places waiting for the hour before.

I come back 65 minutes before the performance and the ticket is no longer available( how did it sell if they only sell one hour before?) Ok I choose another seat which is fine. And now they are just handing out the required masks to anywho doesn’t have one. Ok. Why did I have to go buy one? I take my seat and there is a man next to me who tells me he has decided to come to Bologna for a month from Liechtenstein where he is a lawyer. Woah that is quite the coincidence I tell him. He says he has never done such a trip before and his only problem is he can’t figure out where to eat. Well maybe I can help I say…I have this thing called a blog with lots of restaurant ideas for Bologna. “How nice”, he says, “but I don’t read blogs.” Ok. I turn slowly away. At intermission there is no drinks, no food, nothing. Just people going outside to smoke. And guess how many stalls there are for the ladies bathroom…one! While everything so far about this night has been odd, the performance is quite good.

Tuesday I decide to get my nails done and I have discovered quite a posh salon near me. I find out they do it quite differently here. Instead of sitting in a chair and putting your feet in a water bath, you are on a recliner and they bring the bath up to you. Happy with my nails, I see if I can schedule a haircut. Yes they can do it shortly. I do my best to describe what I want to AB, that’s the name of my stylist, and I am super happy with how it turns out.

I head out to MAST, a modern art museum on the edge of town. It is a fascinating photography exhibit that explores the interface between photography and technology. It is funded by a nearby tech company and it is sleek and elegant in every way When I got tired of the exhibits, I was offered coffee on the patio. Everything is free here!

Back in the center I remember that Mortadella Lab is back from vacation and I head over to stand in line with the masses. No line! People must have forgotten they reopened. A picture perfect piled high mortadella sandwich.

Since I’m feeling lucky, I see if there is the usual line at Cremeria Santo Stefano. I’m lucky there too! I go for the fragola and limone.

It is a good thing I had these warm up food laps, because my friend Nick has now arrived by train from Verona and good eating is his speciality.

First stop is an aperol spritz and charcuterie at Simoni, where I know everyone who works there.

A tour about town allows Nick to get reacquainted with Bologna, although balloons in the Basilica are quite new.

We have a little rain shower in the afternoon. Come evening we head to Enoteca Al Risanamento in the university section of town. Octopus, sardines, and tuna salad are accompanied by several different local wines. Our waitress Giorgia is coincidentally friends with Giorgia from Enoteca Italiana which I discussed in my last post. Same name,wine bar..how funny.

Thursday we have an outing planned out of town, but first we visit the Pinacoteca, the National Gallery of Bologna. It is located in the former Jesuitical Novitate Convent and the building and the art are stunning.

Now we are on the train to a tiny town called San Giovanni in Persiceto just 20 minutes away. We walk from the train station thru the deserted town and come to our destination Osteria del Mirasole. We sit in the garden and Gary and Ricky help us choose delicious starters of a rare Culatello di Nero Parmigiana and an onion baked with pate inside.

Then comes tortellini alla panna and tagliatelle all ragu. As far as I can understand the cream in this dish is a closely guarded secret of the restaurant and not found anywhere else in the region. They have their own cows apparently.

We finish with a chocolate torte with marscapone cream. Seriously, it was Nick not me who insisted on dessert. Maybe.

All the while we are getting great wine suggestions to go with the food. It is a really lovely afternoon!

Back in Bologna we stop by the seven churches (Basilico Santo Stefano) and stay until we are shooed out at closing time by a sweet elderly gentleman. We get shooed right over to Ruggine bar for cocktails with our favorite bartender Alessandro before ending up at my home away from home pizza place, The Gallery. Once again Christian sends over drinks and we are very good and order a salad and one pizza to split! So to reward us, Christain sends over dessert.

Friday we do lots of walking and visit Villa Spada. The villa is closed but we hike thru the park. It is quite an oasis in the city.

We keep going and soon are at Nonna Rosa, a family run restaurant that has been recommended to me by Ela. We love the tables filled with families and we love the pasta and the veal cutlets. I meet Dino the owner and he brings over wine for the three of us to share. This just seems to happen to me all the time in Bologna. Such a friendly place.

Long walk back before we go out tonight for a multi course ( 11 courses) dinner at Sotto l’Arco. Funny thing— we took the bus there. It was a direct shot from my apartment and cabs are not that easy to find in Bologna. So we arrive via public transportation at this quite upscale restaurant. I’ll show you the pictures of some of the courses and if you have questions you can leave it in the comments. You know you are in trouble when the amuse bouche consists of 7 dishes that represent breakfast, lunch, snack and dinner.

Saturday arrives and we are set to pay homage to Pavarotti. His favorite restaurant (next door to his now museum) is outside of Modena. We train out and when we arrive—- no cabs— oh well- we are getting good at taking city buses to fine restaurants.

A lovely meal ensues and afterwards we meet the owner Cesare. He is actually out working in the gardens without a shirt and the staff brings him out a shirt so he can come in and talk to us.

Saturday night we get by with charcuterie from Enoteca Italian and see the terrific Giorgia again. We still haven’t had Cremeria Cavour gelato so off we go for that ( again no line…this is getting so strange). As we eat our gelato outside, a line forms that goes around the block.

We finish this week off with drinks and snacks at the Roxy Bar, across the street from my apartment.

Do you see why the title of this post is La Dolce Vita?

Friends, Ferrara and Family

The beginning of week 2 in Bologna brings dear friends to visit. My friends from Shirleyfest Vienna, Arno and Petra, bring their two daughters to Bologna and we have a wonderful weekend. They arrive Friday night and after Apertivo at my place we walk to Proscutteria nearby.

Having stopped by there previously on a calm Wednesday night to reserve, I had miscalculated the frenzy of the place on a Friday night. Although they have reserved a beautiful table for us, the decibel level would make catching up with these dear friends impossible. What to do when all reservations are taken on a Friday night by now? Ah ha. Remember Christian from my first night here? A quick phone call and he makes room for us. Great dinner and great catching up after not seeing my friends for over 3 years.

The next day we attempt the San Luca Church climb all together.

The heat and length are too intense for the children so we spin off and get sodas and talk about their lives in Vienna while Petra and Arno soldier on. Afterwards Arno finds us the most local of all places, Trattoria della Santa and we all have a delicious lunch together. Later we go to the beautiful Palazzo Albergati and see the photography exhibit of Oliviero Toscani . Believe me you know his work as he had many famous ad campaigns such as the United Colors of Benetton and photography that made people aware of significant issues such as the death penalty, anorexia, AIDS, and much more.

The permanent collection includes many iconic photographs as well. Photos by Man Ray, Robert Capa and Alfred Stieglitz among others.

Dinner that night is at Da Cesari, an old school local restaurant that was empty at 7:45 and overflowing at 8:15. The full moon beckons us to finish with drinks at the famous Roxy Bar.

A walking city tour the next day ends with the whispering corners of the Enzo Palace where not only could close families communicate during the historic plagues of old, I’ve been told it is of practical use today to communicate during Covid.

A little more eating, shopping and gelato and then my dear friends jet back to Vienna until next year when they will visit me in California.

After they leave, I go to a concert at the Basilica di San Petronio that is made even more beautiful by the acoustics of the church .

Monday I am off to Ferrara on the train to see this city dominated by the Este Castle and stories of ruling dukes, Papal interference and the formerly large Jewish population, originally invited by the dukes for their crafts and then sequestered in the Jewish Ghetto by the Pope. I have booked a walking tour like always and I meet Massimo and two lovely ladies from Kolkata,India.

Massimo ( Max) our guide is a retired doctor and is so entertaining and knowledgeable.

Of course when the tour is finished I head directly to the Michelin restaurant in town, Trattoria Da Noemi for a delicious lunch of local asparagus and the Ferrara specialty of pumpkin filled ravioli.

Tuesday I meet Ela and her mother-in-law Laura for Apertivo at their favorite place. I love mid- day aperol spritzes over lively conversation. Laura is of my generation, but unlike me, she drives a motorcycle.

Lunch today, I try the little place Ragu that has the meat pasta sauce in focaccia. Think slow food sloppy joes!

Later walking thru the main square I see police all around and everyone is pointing at a box that they have made a perimeter around. I think..bomb? I discover that it is a box filled with bees and they had to call the beekeepers to deal with it.

Later I have dinner at the well known Da Nello. I had a reservation, but that didn’t seem to matter. I ended up at an ok table with delicious food, but I was less than thrilled with the brusque wait staff. I would not recommend it even tho you will see it mentioned often. For me, great food is the minimum requirement…but especially as an often solo diner, I want to feel engaged with the restaurant and the people, not just fed. Considering I’ve eaten 35 meals out in Bologna, a dud of one in 35 I can live with. Plus there was this great pasta I had there.

Early Wednesday morning I check out the big park near me, Giardini Margherita. It is really lovely. Surrounded by pretty homes.

Plus I like it because an Italian yoga instructor trying to meet her class in the park, ran up to me, assumed I was Italian, and asked me in Italian how to get somewhere in the park and I was able to tell her in Italian. WooHoo!

Afterwards I go for caffé and a Panino alla Cannella ( morning bun) at Forno Brisa where I met dashing Lorenzo. He has a bandage on his nose and I discovered that he had broken it in a biking accident last month just like I had. What are the chances?

Later I pick up mortadella, cheese and bread for Apertivo as sister MJ arrives this evening. Simoni deli was closed, but now that I know everyone at their restaurant, I was able to convince them to let me buy provisions there for my welcome party for MJ. MJ arrives and we go to my favorite Bolognese pizza place where Christain welcomes MJ to Bologna with his delicious pizzas.

The next day, Ela does a walking tour for MJ and I so that MJ can get the lay of the land.

Before she leaves us, she calls Trattoria de Me for us and snags us a very hard to get lunch reservation. Hot crescentina fritta and MJ’s first dish of Tagliatella Al Ragu and my ravioli in a pea sauce are delicious.

We go next to see the anatomical theatre of the Archiginnasio. In 1637 it was where anatomy lessons were held in the first ever theatre style classroom for such. It is because of it that we use the term theatre in describing operating rooms today.

Drinks at Simoni with Parmesan cheese tasting is followed by dinner at Trattoria Sette Tavoli ( 7 table restaurant— which is what it had).

Not quite done, we stop at the bar Ruggine for some interesting cocktails from bartender Alessandro. On the bar stools next to us, two young students can’t believe we found this place which is a popular student bar.

Next day we climb to the clock tower of city hall for some views and then see the art collection.

The art collection is huge and we had seen enough, but when we turned to leave we were instructed by the docent to continue on and not cut out any of the rooms. Hilarious. We did as she asked. A stop for coffee at the lovely Cafe Zanarini fueled us for some shopping.

Shopping in Italy is great! We both did some damage at Max Mara and other stores. Actually that is true figuratively and literally. We did buy some nice things. Then, at a very fancy store I managed to not see a clear glass 12 inches off the floor side table and I crashed forward into their display. While the display looked like a car had plowed through the wall with metal and broken glass strewn everywhere, I escaped with only one cut and one bruise. The shopkeepers were amazing with bandages, ice packs and bottled water. I was going to see if they would also give me this wonderful pair of shoes I spied, but I thought better of it.

Tonight we stop for drinks at Enoteca Italiana and meet the delightful Giorgia who brings us mortadella( of course) to have with our wine.

Later we eat at Trattoria Valerio.

Next to us is a Berlin travel writer named Soenke who engages us and makes the evening quite fun. Three Italian men are at the next table celebrating a birthday and so we also have fun talking with them before we leave.

On MJ’s last day here, we go to Modena on the train. While sipping coffee in the square we see a wedding is about to take place in the cathedral. Of course we crash it. The mustache man was the highlife of our attendance and of course the bride!

We wedding crashers now go for the famous Modena basaltic vinegar tasting. There is no finer balsamic vinegar than Giuseppe Giusti. At its lovely showroom, Matteo expertly guides us through all the variations and laws pertaining to preserving the integrity of Modena basalmic vinegar.

We move onward to Francescetta 58 which you may recall from my previous post I went to last week. I really want MJ to experience this wonderful place and we are very lucky that the famous Massimo Bottura is here today. He talks to us…. If you count him saying “sera” and us saying it back as talking.

We love our food and also the show taking place a the next table where 4 Italian men are tasting a dozen bottles of wine.

Onward to the Maserati museum where MJ and I pick our our favorite cars before training home to Bologna.

Having had such a big lunch we opt for Simoni for dinner. Once again upon seeing my friendly waiters there, a table magically appears for us ahead of mobs of people waiting. The platter of meats and cheeses plus a bottle of local wine makes for the perfect dinner. Fredrico chats with us about his upcoming exams and we lend encouragement.

No encouragement needed to decide to end the ending at the Roxy Bar. I opt for a Montenegroni where they substitute Amaro Montenegro for Campari. MJ gets the Roxy, a bourbon and lime concoction. The night ends but the memories linger on.

A few days alone and then my friend Nick who I first met on Shirleyfest Berlin will arrive.

Until then!

Bologna Week 1 Comes to a Tasty End

In Ravenna this week I see the beautiful mosaic tile ceiling that inspired Cole Porter to write the song Night and Day.

I can’t write music, but it does inspire me to go have lunch at a Michelin restaurant in Ravenna. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s go back to where we left off.

Monday, I meet my new friend Ela for coffee at a Turkish cafe called Naama. Afterwards we wander the streets of beautiful Bologna. She shows me some of the hidden towers.

All of a sudden I run smack dab into friends from home, Mike and Lisa, who had come from Florence to Bologna to see me. We all were independently looking for a lunch place and Mondays many things are closed, but we ended up at Bottega Portici-Due Torri. It is near the ancient Two Towers and houses the Portici Academy where you can learn pasta making.

In the restaurant, modern touch screens deliver old world Tagliatelle al Ragu. Ela leaves us after lunch and the three of us wander around the city. I take them up the secret spiral staircase for a great view of the towers.

As we are passing the charcuterie shop Simoni, my friend Klevis calls out to us. “Stop for a drink”, So we do. Later Marco’s son Michaela fills in for his Dad and does a balsamic vinegar tasting for us. We also buy Prosecco at his store called Gilberto because it is aperol spritz time now.

But we need ice. Let me tell you ice is the bane of my existence on these Shirleyfest. I love aperol spritzes and they need ice. But this apartment has no freezer. There is however a famous bar called the Roxy directly across the street from my apartment and without hesitation the lovely waitress there sensing my great need offers me a huge bag of ice for our drinks. Works out fine and held us over until our dinner at Trattoria dal Biassanot near the canal.

It was great to have Mike and Lisa join Shirleyfest!The next day is the flower market day at Piazza San Francesco.

Off I go early morning and I am rewarded with some great flower finds.

After depositing those in my apartment, I want to see the three tiny Michelangelo statues in the Basilica of Saint Dominic’s. The place is empty so I could get quite up close and personal with the little guys.

The other art that was calling my name is the 7 terracotta figures known as the lamentations behind the altar at Santa Maria Della Vita. Done in the 1400s by the artist Niccolò Dell’Arca, they are magnificent and really not to missed if you visit Bologna.

I then had in mind to sample what is suppose to be the best gelato in Bologna at Cremeria Santo Stefano. But the line is long and not moving.

Interesting that the last time I saw a line like this is was at Shirleyfest Boston and people were in line to buy the latest released sneakers.

Pretty much sums it up—Italy: Food. US: Shoes

Dinner tonight is in the courtyard of Bologna’s version of Romeo and Juliet ( basically same story….kids in love, parent are against it, tower scene, they both die). I’m here for the beautiful setting of the restaurant Corte Galluzzi.

I start with prosciutto and melon.

I follow that with Vittelo Tonnato. It has been a favorite of mine since a friend in Florence made it for me many years ago. It’s roasted veal that is chilled and sliced and the topped with a tuna/anchovies sauce. Not for everyone for sure.

I meet a Swiss couple at dinner and we talked for quite a while about American politics and especially our Supreme Court…grrr. We agree to meet for Apertivo the next evening.

Wednesday I hike up to San Michele in Bosco. It’s an old church, but the real reason to spend the energy is the beautiful views of Bologna from the top.

I’ve got to get back tho because I’m invited to cocktail reception at the 5 star Grand Hotel Majestic for an artist who is in town for art week. It’s a beautiful party and the sparking wine is flowing. I get to meet the artist and we talk about her work, which is stunning.

Thursday, I take the 8:06 train to Ravenna an hour away. It is a spur of the moment decision so I don’t have time to hire a guide or sign up for a tour so I download the important information and set up a Google map annotated with the things I want to see. Ravenna is the city of mosaics and is a UNESCO World heritage site. It is literally a glittering jewel box of 5th and 6th century mosaic art. I walk the 15 minutes from the train station and start with a coffee in the town square and then go directly to the Basilica di San Vitale. I have found that an early start in these day trips is the best recipe and then go directly to the most important site and work backwards depending on the time you have. I am not disappointed as there are very few people at my first stop. Later I pass by there and it is mobbed with people. The ceilings, floors and walls of all the sites I visit are so stunning. Take a look.

Now it’s time for lunch. I check and there is one Michelin restaurant in Ravenna called Antica al Gallo 1909. I decide to take my chance and walk the 15 minutes there to see if I can get in. As I study my map, a local gentleman approaches and asks if he can help me. I tell him my destination and he admires my taste in restaurants and says he will walk me there. His name is Herman and we have the most lovely chat along the way.

Now I approach this gorgeous restaurant and am welcomed by the owner Umberto who is happy to seat me in a table right near the garden.

I am so lucky as soon afterwards the restaurant is completely full. Umberto’s great great grandfather started the restaurant and it has survived two world wars and Covid and is still going strong. Upstairs there are sitting rooms for cocktails and smoking!

I with squash blossoms filled with Gorgonzola and surrounded by a red pepper sauce.

Then I go for the Cavaletti al Ragu. Umberto pours a lovely local wine and I am having the best time.

I’m too full for dessert so they bring me a plate of cookies— meringues with toasted almond glaze.

Afterwards Umberto gives me a gift of a little book about his family. It is first in Italian and then English and he says, “this way you will learn Italian words.” So cute!

Now I visit Modena which is only a 20 minute train ride away. I tour around the town with its beautiful cathedral and lively market.

Modena is famous for balsamic vinegar, luxury sports cars and Massimo Bottura, the chef of the Michelin restaurant Osteria Francescan ( frequently thought of as the #1 restaurant in the world). Before I left California I scored a reservation at Massimo Bottura’s second place ( also a Michelin restaurant) for 2 pm on this day.Arriving early I am taken to a garden table by Marco and an amuse bouche of squash stuffed with ricotta and lemon zest as well as a raw zucchini topped with mousse of zucchini arrives.

I have to have the burger starter which Massimo invented. I took Massimo’s MasterClass and this was featured so I’ve been looking forward to trying it. In his home region of Emilia-Romagna, he makes the patty out of Italian beef mixed with gelatin from cotechino (a local pork sausage) and Parmigiano-Reggiano. For condiments, he puts an Italian spin on American standard making a mayo out of Balsamic vinegar from Modena and an herb sauce based on Italian salsa verde.

Next course is an artichoke ravioli with a black garlic sauce which Giacamo, the young intern from Milan recommends.

Still denying dessert, I am presented with not one but two little Italian bites.

Really a fantastic meal!

I wander back and even figure out the self service ticket machine at the station to change my ticket to a slightly earlier train because my friend Arno and his family arrive from Vienna tonight.

My readers will remember that I met Arno in the Naschmarkt in Vienna in Shirleyfest 2017. Here we are that day nearly 5 years ago.

We really hit it off and the next year when he learned I was going to Amsterdam for Shirleyfest 2018 he invited me to join his family in the Dolomites for a week before Shirleyfest. I did and had the best time! Now they are here! I will report on our activities during their weekend visit in the next post. Now, it is time for me to go have apertivo. Cin Cin!

72 Hours in Bologna

I’m trying to think when I’ve felt compelled to post about a Shirleyfest city after just a few nights in my new home. Oh I know……Never! Until now. Dear readers, Bologna might just be the best kept travel secret. So why do I say this? Let me tell you.

Let’s start at the beginning. It is an easy trip to Bologna connecting thru Amsterdam on KLM. The airport is small and having cleared customs in Amsterdam, I simply walk straight out to a waiting taxi. Less than 20 minutes later, I’m in my new apartment which is literally steps from the famous two towers of Bologna.

The street below my fifth floor flat is Via Rizzoli, a pedestrian zone on the weekend.

Of course that means since Bologna is a university town that the students gather below my building on the weekends, but it makes for a lively atmosphere. I unpack, shower and head off for my first dinner.

I have reserved in the posh Gallerie nearby. I’m well taken care of by Christain who is surprised and delighted that I am here for a month. After a delicious salad and designer pizza, he surprises me with a lemon sorbet to welcome me.

I’m feeling right at home. And that is the first night!

The next day I have reserved a walking tour. As my readers know, that is my standard practice to have that set up for the first morning in any city. I am so lucky to have Ela as my guide. Smart, warm and energetic, she takes me and two others around her beautiful city. Pasta being the religion of Bologna, we stop to watch it being made.

We then head on thru the beautiful porticos of which there are so many. Bologna has more porticos than any other city in the world …..they date back to 1041. Ela takes us to see one of the portico still standing from medieval times.

From there, we wander thru the Quadrilatero, the old Bologna market, and now home to many many outdoor cafes, restaurants and food shops.

We duck into Gilberto’s and do a basamic vinegar tasting with Marco. We progress from the 8 year old to the 40 year old and it astonishing how rich and refined the oldest Modena vinegars taste.

We stop in the building that housed the university originally and now contains the library. The ceiling is filled with famous family crests.

We plan to end at Neptune fountain, but Ela is so generous with her time, she takes us to the “hidden canals of Bologna”. I was able to peak through the recently restored window that gave way to a view of the Reno Canal in Via Piella.

We take a group shot and Marcel and Alexandra leave.

Once the tour ends, Ela and I are not done talking so we go off the two of us to a nearby coffee bar and continue our discussion.

Soon I say goodbye to my new friend, but we make plans to meet again soon.I feel so lucky to have met such a wonderful person.

I decide to walk to the modern art museum at the edge of town. MAMbo. It is small but nicely done. I’m fascinated by what this artist was trying to tell us.

And I love that this artist found a way to cram more hours in the day.

Later I head to Trattoria dal Biassanot and enjoy a beautiful meal served by the attentive Luca.

The pasta is tortellini with pistachios. Absolutely devine…. as was the pane cotta with fresh berries. Oh gosh I’m glad I walk a lot here! I looked at my step counter at the end of the day and had walked 25,000 steps. I’ll need to keep that up if I am going to eat all this delicious food.

On Sunday it is Mother’s Day so I decide to take the pilgrims path ( hike!) up to Chinese Della Madonna di San Luca founded in 1194. You go through 666 porticos ( the longest Portico path in the world) to have an uninterrupted 3.8 km hike to get to the top.

Once up, a beautiful church awaits you.

Inside many parishioners are chanting the rosary in honor of the Virgin Mary. I love how fitting this seems on the special day. Great views await you at the top.

After a small rest and a bottle of water, I start back down. I have to admit I saw a coffee bar just before the end and I plunk down at a table for a refreshing cup of tea before carrying on.

Tonight I decide to try to get a table at Simoni, the unchallenged best charcuterie restaurant in Bologna. I see lots of people and I wait to put my name on the list. For some reason, I am whisked off right away to a perfect table in the center of the restaurant with great views of the hard working staff.

It is a show to watch the charcuterie trays being churned out for all the hungry guests. Klevis, my waiter, shows me the best wine to order and soon my plate arrives.

By then I am heartily engaged with the tables on either side of me. One with an American student living in Bologna now for 3 years and her visiting cousin and the other two Italian students getting their masters at the university. Naturally I garner some great tips and recommendations from my fellow diners!

I walk the few short blocks home very happy with my first three days in Bologna. I do believe I have picked the perfect city for Shirleyfest 2022. I hope you will continue to enjoy Bologna with me.

Shirleyfest 2022: Bologna, Italy

While I loved my Santa Barbara and Boston Shirleyfests, I’ve been looking longingly at international destinations for 2022. For a variety of reasons, Ive decided to change things up this year and go in the spring instead of the fall……although it is entirely possible that come fall I’ll want to do a second Shirleyfest.

I’ve had Bologna on my travel radar for quite a while. It is known for its amazing food ( it is considered Italy’s gastronomical capital), miles of beautiful Spanish terra cotta tiled rooftops and porticos in the city center (25 miles) and home of the oldest university in the western world ( University of Bologna founded in 1088). For these reasons it has three nicknames, Fat, Red and Learned. Add in fabulous museums, a train hub that begs you to do day trips, impressive markets and lots of live music, who could resist being part of that! Not me.

So I’ll be off to Italy in a couple of months. Please let me know if you know people to introduce me to or have any good information to pass along. I hope you will follow along with me as I immerse myself in Shirleyfest #12.

Ciao!

Shirley

Last week Boston

Time to wrap up my Boston blog. This last week has been exciting. I went to the opening night of the famous Boston Symphony where John Williams conducted a piece he wrote for for the renowned violinist Anna Sophia Mutter. You may know Williams from his Oscar winning scores for movies like Jaws and Star Wars…with 52 Academy Award nominations, he is the second most-nominated individual, after Walt Disney. This 89 year old succeeded Arthur Fiedler as the conductor of the Boston Pops in the 80s and occasionally he still conducts the Boston Symphony. I was so lucky to see him! Anna Sophia Mutter is a German violinist of great acclaim ( often performing with Yo-Yo Ma), so it was a double treat.

I took the T over to the Prudential building before the performance and had a lovely salad and glass of wine pre-show at Terra. Very very noisy but tasty and very convenient.

Walking to the symphony I encountered many people excited to return to live performances. The show ended late and hearing my daughter’s voice in my head, I chose not to walk through the dark Boston Commons park at midnight. Speaking of my daughter, big news! Laura and Mallory are engaged. I was excited to see them in Boston the day after their engagement and to toast their happy news. Look at these two happy faces! Guess what? Mine was equally happy.

On my way to meet my friend Brad for lunch, I spy the Greenway Carousel. This is a unique carousel with hand carved air, sea and land animals native to Massachusetts. Ten years ago at my first Shirleyfest in New York City, I rode the carousel in Central Park to celebrate my birthday. I thought it fitting to jump on the grasshopper at the carousel in Boston to celebrate this one as well.

After the ride I meet Brad at J. Hook for one last bowl of Boston Clam Chowder. I wanted to bring him some apple cider donuts for his kids so I was forced to first sample one at the Boston Public Market. These are addictive.

Brad mentioned that he also liked Row 34’s seafood. That was all I needed to head over there the next day for a local beer and fish tacos.

One other foodie place I need to mention is Coppa. I went there for brunch and had scrambled eggs cacio e pepe which was fantastic. My favorite Italian dish without the added carbs from pasta. Of course there was that burnt tomato toast.

I liked Coppa so much I went back there with my friends Belinda and Kent at the end of the week. This time I did have pasta and also a delicious sea bass.

Enough about food. You must think all I do is eat. You would not be too far wrong. But I also did a harbor walk that last week. Impressive sights all along the harbor.

Near the Seaport is the Contemporary Art Museum. I took one last look around as the exhibits had changed. It is a small museum but really nicely curated.

I head home and up to my wonderful rooftop to say goodbye to Boston.

The sun was just starting to set so I made one last aperol spritz.

And then with a glorious finish the sun set on my lovely Boston Shirleyfest. Goodbye for now and thank you for coming on my journey with me.

Boston Birthday and more

Shirleyfest has three human components…enjoying visits from family and friends, engaging with new people I meet in my host city, and my solo time. I have lots of fun stories and photos from those first two categories, but first let me comment on the last.

A solo walk at daybreak across the Longfellow bridge allows me time for contemplation and reflection. Shirleyfest allows me the luxury of getting away from my home, to do list, and familiar surroundings to think about what is important to me. It allows me to have intimate moments with my own mind. I am challenged to figure out many new things, overcome obstacles and let my curiosity take me down many paths. All of this leads to personal transformation and growth. I am never the same person when I leave a city that I am when I open that door to my apartment. I learn lessons and I learn new things about myself.

A solo walk around MIT. Adding another chapter to my Tao of Shirleyfest

After Vermont, I was blessed with many friends and family coming to Boston to help me celebrate my birthday. Fortunately there is a very nice hotel, Liberty Hotel, a few minutes walk away and my visitors all chose that destination to stay ( it is a former prison so I don’t know what that says about my friends and family?) My friend Andy arrives and we take to the Charles River for some kayaking

We venture into a part of the river I had missed before— the Charles River Locks.

Now that we have the hang of being on the water, the next day we take the fast ferry to Provincetown.

A 90 minute ferry from Boston straight to the heart of P-town.

After a very nice lunch at Fanzini’s we stroll around the town which is charming. We ferry back and tonight have dinner at Mamma Maria in North Beach. Andy has to work the next day so I enjoy meeting a new neighbor, Mike, for lunch at Harvest in Cambridge.

That night my brother John, sister in law Virginia and sister MJ come into town and we all go to Wood Hill Pier 4 for a meal sourced from their large farm. It is a full moon out and life seems just right sitting outside with people I love.

Andy leaves but the rest of us walk all over Boston the next day. We see a group of ladies dressed in white at Boston Commons. Turns out to be a demonstration against Massachusetts law that has no age requirement for marriage.

We walk through so many neighborhoods today. Louisburg Square, North End, Charlestown. Laughter bounds.

Tonight my friends Dan and Sharon join us and we head to Petit Robert Bistro. It starts with a toast of pink champagne.

The evening was hilarious and the restaurant got into the fun…. sending us complimentary champagne and desserts. I think everyone could tell how happy we were.

Laura and Mallory arrive the next day fresh from Cape Cod.

Oh yes today is my birthday! We open gifts and have lunch at Tatte nearby before exploring the shops on Charles Street. That evening my friends Kent and Belinda join us all at 75 Chestnut where I have the best birthday dinner dinner a girl could want. Brother John got the entire restaurant to sing me happy birthday!

file:///var/mobile/Library/SMS/Attachments/52/02/DB6973BB-62D3-4F68-A36E-8916E2EF6E57/IMG_3351.mov

So it is a done deal, I’m officially a year older.

More exploring the next day and of course more eating. Tonight the gang walks to Legal Seafood on Long Wharf. The walk there is highlighted by a beautiful sunset.

That night we hang out under the moonlight and have after-dinner drinks at their hotel. Everyone but Sharon and Dan is leaving in the morning and it has been such fun having my gang here to celebrate with me.

Dan, Sharon and I first go out to the Kennedy Presidential Library. I have only been to one other of the 14 Presidential Libraries—LBJ’s in Austin. This one is beautiful and well done.

I am surprised by this map. are you?

Later we head to Cambridge to have dinner at little Donkey, a Spanish tapa style restaurant. We all love it. Then off to the Loeb Theatre to see Chasing Magic. It felt so odd to be back in the theatre. We had to show proof of vaccination and wear masks but it was worth it to finally see live theatre again.

Dan and Sharon leave for Charleston, SC and I have a solo day where first I go to Third Cliff Bakery owned by Meg, the wife of a friend of ours. Delicious!

Then I go to mass at the Cathedral.

A beautiful place and a great homily. The priest tells the story of a boy who is sitting in a low stool looking up at his mother embroidering and sees the underside of what she is working on. He is puzzled because it looks like lots of loose threads and knots, with no rhyme or reason. She then lifts him up to look at the work from the top down and he sees a beautiful orderly design and pattern. That story speaks to me in many ways.

The next day I take the train to Kingston, RI to visit my friend George. I am wowed by Rhode Island’s beauty. We have a fabulous lunch at George’s friend Nancy’s home.

Nancy shows me around her lovingly decorated 1776 home and gardens. George and I hang out at Witch Hill beach with his new dog, Gracie.

George takes me back to the train station for an easy hour ride back to Boston

So much has transpired this week! I’m back in my cozy place with these colorful dahlias from Nancy’s Rhode Island garden to remind me of all the beauty in the world.

Thanks for reading along!

Oh Lord won’t you buy me a Mercedes Benz

Wait…not THAT Woodstock! I’m heading to Woodstock,Vermont where the theme song is the Ballad of the Green Mountain Boys ( really good song actually, link here https://youtu.be/Y4KcJTP8nW8).

I have always wanted to go to Vermont as it is one of the 5 remaining states I have not spent a night in. Mid-Shirleyfest I always take a little side trip, so this is a perfect time to head north. My friends Belinda and Kent pick me up and off we go on a beautiful sunny day. After an organic healthy lunch at Mon Vert in town we arrive at the Woodstock Inn.

It really is so lovely and well maintained. After checking in we walk around town. Bookstores, antique shops, bakeries and gorgeous large homes on the river. I have to say it is the quintessential Northeast village encapsulated by covered bridges and the the Ottauquechee River. I feel like I am in Stars Hollow from the Gilmore Girls.

When confirming my reservation a few days ago, the concierge told me that at the nearby farm they had thousands of sunflowers in bloom and it was quite a site. We head off to see those flowers. Imagine our surprise when we we see a field of dead sunflowers. Well there is one that looks like a sunflower shower so I got a picture with that.

And while the sunflowers were a bust, this butterfly feasting on one is fun to see.

All is not a bust at the farm tho because we do see a calf that has just been born. That night we have dinner at the Red Rooster at the hotel and it was delicious. We start the next day with a hike up the nearby mountain for magnificent views of the valley.

Afterwards we head to Simon Pearce, an amazing shop with beautiful hand blown glass. The many glass blowers are working in the basement and we are mesmerized by their craft.

Outside the shops, the river and a waterfall are beautiful today but we learn that a devastating hurricane in 2011, destroyed much of the shop and the surrounding town. It looks great now!

We realize that we are very close to Dartmouth so we decide to go. The students have just arrived on campus so all is abuzz. We have lunch at Lou’s before heading to the Quechee Gorge. The gorge is 165 feet deep and is the deepest gorge in Vermont. It is known as Vermont’s Grand Canyon. We find a spot on the bridge perfect for viewing.

Back in Woodstock, Belinda discovers a hidden game room complete with pool table, pinball machines and a bar. We have it all to ourselves and enjoy some pre dinner libations before heading upstairs to the Tavern for a delicious dinner.

The next day we head back. I’m sad to leave Woodstock but I spy out the car window a field of leaves turning colors. It’s a sign to come back and see all of Vermont’s changing foliage again someday. Viva Vermont!

Boston ABCs….Art, Baseball and Charles River.

I’m sitting in my beautiful living room sipping coffee at 8:08 am and I see online that there is a 9:00 am tour of Fenway Ball Park. I throw on my clothes, rush out the door and hop on the T. I buy the ticket on my phone while I’m on the train, power walk 15 minutes from the stop and I’m there with minutes to spare. It’s game day and Boston, who is in the wild card race, is playing the #1 Tampa Bay Rays in a few hours. Fenway is getting ready!

Our energetic tour guide tells us all the lore of this storied baseball park. We see the one red seat in a sea of green where a fan got beaned when Ted Williams hit the longest home run in the park’s history. We see the Green Monster and the seats on it. We sit in the press box.

Fenway now even has a farm on the roof which provides produce for the concessions in the park as well as donations to local food banks.

The hour flies by and I couldn’t be happier. Later the Red Sox could be happier as they were beat 11-10 in extra innings.

But I gotta scoot because I’m going kayaking on the Charles River. I walk across the Longfellow Bridge to the other side of the river and find the kayak rental place. With very little info I’m sent off in my kayak and told to bring it back when I feel like it!

Off I go towards the Harvard Bridge. It is so beautiful on the river today. I get out a ways and have the whole Boston skyline behind me.

I could have gone on forever. The day was beautiful and the river calm. It is only because I’m getting hungry that I finally go back. And you know what I want after being on the water? A lobster roll!

I heard of James Hook lobster shack from a local. It is back over on my side of the river and down towards Long Wharf. I order the large lobster roll. Period. That’s all I want. And for $42 with tip that is what I get. Worth every penny

The other local tip I got was that Boston has killer donuts from a place called Kane’s. Fortunately ( or not) Kane’s donuts is just around the corner, so…..

The next day is equally great weather and I hire a local photographer to do a photo walk with me around my Beacon Hill neighborhood. I take a lot of pictures and she points out cool possibilities to me for shots.

This house is charming and begs to have its picture taken with its Red Sox door and Red Sox baseballs gracing all the flower pots. We also go to Acorn Lane, the most photographed street in Boston and where marriage proposals are regularly staged. I thought I got a great shot of this pretty street.

She takes me to Louisburg Square which is right behind my place and where John Kerry lives at #19 and the author Robin Cook lives at #16 (Coma, Contagion, Pandemic, and more). Louisa May Alcott lived here at one time as well. It is apparently the most expensive address in Boston. I love the door knockers.

We also photograph the public gardens and parts of Back Bay. One of my favorite photos is the dog stuck in the Back Bay fence. All in all it’s a fun morning.

But what about the A of the ABCs? Not to worry, that afternoon I went to the special Monet exhibit at the Boston Museum of Fine Art and then topped it off with a visit to the Isabella Gardner Museum. This Isabella Gardner museum was the site of the $500 million, 1990 theft of 13 works of art including Rembrandts and Vermeer. Look at the empty frames still on the walls where the paintings had been.

The best part of the Isabella Gardner Museum is the courtyard garden. it is gorgeous and ever changing. The Museum also has a great restaurant where I had lunch prior to my visit.

So there you have the ABCs of a couple of my Shirleyfest Boston days. Coming up next…the USS Constitution and sunset walking with my Boston Meet Up group. Stay tuned and follow along!

Beautiful Boston Shirleyfest 2021

I arrive during a rainstorm to my new home for the next month. There is always that moment before I open the door where I wonder what it will look like on the other side. Here’s what I see.

I breath a sigh of relief and an outburst of joy. I’ve rented a beautiful place in the Beacon Hill area of Boston. I will be happy here. My dear friends who live in a nearby suburb kindly whisk me away for a welcoming typical New England dinner of lobster,clam chowder and Boston cream pie.

And so goes my first night in Boston. Early the next day I do a walking tour of the Freedom Trail with Brian, a comedic Bostonian. I see the State House, the Boston Commons, the First Public Schoolhouse, and the site of the Boston Massacre where British soldiers opened fire on a taunting mob in 1770 killing 5 and providing an igniter for Revolutionary activists. I also see the Old Granary Burial Grounds where the gallows humor is you can go to the bar across the street and have a cold Samuel Adams while overlooking a cold Samuel Adams.

After the tour, I head over to the North Church for a quick visit in the Italian area of Boston—North End. I spy Regina’s Pizza which is on my list and choose a yummy pizza.

That evening I stroll through the beautiful Beacon Hill streets and wind up at a local place called 75 Chestnut for dinner. So enjoyable to eat outside on these cobblestone streets. Afterwards I realize I am only a few blocks from Cheers bar so I have a nightcap of a cold one.

The next morning I meet a friend from Palo Alto for coffee and we stroll around Charles street looking at vintage stores and antique shops. In the afternoon I go downtown and get my monthly subway card ( Charlie Card) and head to the Boston Public Library. It is an beautiful building with murals from the painter John Singer Sargent, gorgeous reading rooms and a storied history. It is the first free public library and it is filled with people today taking advantage of all it has to offer.

Tonight I head first to the Contemporary Art Museum via the T and a walk across the river. It is happening! A cool exhibit featuring Virgil Abloh. He is the artistic Director behind the off-white launch in Milan which challenges elite fashion houses long-standing exclusion of Black talent. There is a band playing on the waterfront in front of the museum. So fun! Afterwards I go to Sportello, a Barbara Lynch restaurant nearby.I get suggestions from two regulars and I always listen to regulars. One is to order a whipped housemade ricotta with honey and a homemade warm focaccia and the other the roasted pasta Bolognese tagliatelle.

Now it’s the weekend! My friends and I go to Marblehead and Salem for the day. Marblehead is a coastal town, sometimes referred to as the birthplace of the American Navy. We cross the causeway and walk around this little island and see the lighthouse and all the beautiful homes. You can see Boston in the distance.

Now Salem! What a hoot! Everything is witchcraft this and spooky that. Some people are dressed in costume. We have a great lunch at Finz overlooking the harbor and then we check out the old cemetery.

After all that spooky business we need some drinks. No better place than my rooftop deck when we get home.

I think that is quite enough for my first few days here. Next up at Fenway Park and kayaking the Charles River. I hope you follow along as I explore Boston!

Copenhagen: a sensory experience

It isn’t a Shirleyfest, but why not do a summary of one of the coolest cities in the world? Copenhagen tickled all my senses more easily than any city I’ve visited. Sights, sounds, smells, touch and taste…..oh my goodness…taste! It is also the happiest….Except for Wednesday night when at midnight Denmark lost in overtime to England in the UEFA EURO semi- finals. More on that later.

Saturday July 3, 2021

I leave on Friday and arrive Saturday via a 10 hour nonstop flight from SFO on SAS. Because I made my reservation so late, I can only get premium economy, but SAS lets you “bid” for an upgrade and fortunately they take my bid. Lie flat beds make the trip go fast and easy! Arriving in the morning, I quickly hop on the train below the airport into the city center and walk the few blocks from the central station to my beautiful design hotel, Nobis Copenhagen.

At 7:30 am I know my room will not be ready, but DeJon at the front desk stores my luggage and I go off to explore Copenhagen. First stop- Sct. Peder’s Bageri where I get my first of what will be many delicious pastries. This one was a Kanel gnurrer.

There I meet a lovely family and we talked for an hour. The 5 year old, Oliver, teaches me the cheer I need for this soccer week-“ I am red,I am white, I am Denmark dynamite.” Over to the beautiful Nyhavn ( new harbor) where I decide to take one of the boat cruises around the Baltic Sea and the canals. So glad I do! I learn a lot and enjoy seeing Copenhagen from that perspective.

Now I get a text from the hotel that my room is ready. Again—it’s a design hotel so naturally my room is stylish! Later in the afternoon the front desk sends up a glass of wine.

I get ready for my first dinner in Copenhagen. Fishmarket. Lovely local fish with peas and vegetables and I get to hear the roar of the crowd as Denmark beats Czech in the quarterfinals.

Home for a good night’s rest.My Apple Watch informs me I have walked 8.5 miles today after getting off my overnight flight.

Sunday, July 4, 2021

I see online that there is a 10:00 am walking tour starting at the Radhuspladsen ( Town Hall Square) so off I go. Our guide, Stuart, is an older gentleman married to a Dane. Our little group of 5 enjoy a wonderful walk around many of the famous sites, including the old and new palaces, stock exchange, parliament and the court house. Two of the people with me on the walking tour are from Salzburg and afterward we decide to go see the famous little mermaid statue together and we have a lovely time walking a bit more around town.

Leaving them, I want to try Cafe Ateiler September for lunch. I pick the special salad. Does not disappoint. The crowd in here is as cool as it gets too.

Now I’m off to find the outdoor market, Torvehallerne. It is a bit like a small Naschmarket in Vienna. Beautifully curated produce and even more beautiful small restaurants on the fringe.

But I read about a brew pub in the New York Times and I want to find it . Success! Brus. So many beers on tap. I choose. I drink.

My friend is arriving tonight from Amsterdam, so I head back. Joining him at dinner at our hotel— great food and great design…and great wine. Then we set off around 11 pm to walk across the bridge and later around Tivoli— a very old amusement park that was the inspiration for Disneyland.

We realize it is the 4th of July and snap this picture to commemorate the occasion.Apple Watch says I walked 12.6 miles today.

Monday July 5, 2021

We plot out a super fun day starting with renting bikes to bike to the spiral Church of Our Savoir. We use the bike app Bycyklen which I had downloaded and added minutes to before I left home. Later we learn from a local that a preferable bike company is Donkey Republic. Smooth biking across the water. We climb and climb and one of us even squeezed up to that last bit. Great views of Copenhagen.

Time to get our groove on. We hang out in Christiania, a 70’s style hippie commune. Nick drank the coffee and I just breathed in the aroma from all the people passing by.

We check out the opera house on our way to lunch at La Banchina, a combo swimming hole, organic wine bar, gourmet seafood restaurant. On the way we pass the site of Noma, the famous restaurant I’m heading to on Saturday.

That night we head to Copenhagen’s meat packing district and dine at Pate Pate. 5 courses, lots of delicious wine and a stroll thru the beautiful Copenhagen night finishes off a glorious day. Walked 9.1 miles

Tuesday July 6, 2021

Sadly my friend has to leave early. I decide to go over to Malmö, Sweden. I head to the train station and work out a very reasonable $35 round trip ticket across the famous Odense bridge/tunnel. It only took 35/minutes and now I’m in Sweden. A lovely lady at the info booth gives me a map and I head off. It’s a charming town with a cute old town where I have some street food for lunch. Then I head to the castle and the surrounding park.

The Turning Torso beckons me so I take the long walk there. Amazing architecture! I stop for a drink at the beach and then walk along the harbor.

Back on the train I’m in Denmark again before dinner time. Actually time to go to the Glyptotek museum which is right next door to the Nobis. This is an old villa with an art collection built around the personal collection of Carl Jacobsen, the founder of Carlsberg Breweries. This may be one of my favorite museums ever.

A food blog I read insist the pizza at Pizzeria la Fiorita is the best neighborhood place in Copenhagen. I walk out only to return for an umbrella as it is pouring. It is actually a nice walk in the warm rain. The place is hopping with locals getting pizza after pizza. The owner comes to talk to me in Italian where I’m understanding about every other word. It is delicious!

A walk back thru the Kings garden, the new harbor and the winding streets. Walking 13.2 miles

Wednesday July 7, 2021

It is game day! You cannot find anyone not decked out in red and white. I want to try the metro today. The Metro here is pristine. NYC take note.

Also I heard of a bakery in the northern borough so I get a day ticket and head up really early. The famous bakery, Juno the Bakery, is closed for July break but since I am in Copenhagen there is always another bakery. I stop for the next “ I’ve lost count how many ” danishes at Bosses Bageri and a coffee at Cafe Efternolern.

I’m refreshed enough to go shopping on the longest shopping street in Europe, Strøget. I hit a couple of shops( and they hit my wallet) but it was so fun. Now I have a reservation for lunch at the Michelin guide restaurant Sankt Annæ. Oh my. They have been serving lunch only for over 180 years in the same location. I choose the most Danish lunch I can find on the menu: smoked salmon from FARO and creamed spinach. It comes with this Danish salted butter. Oh my again. I pair it with a crisp Sancerre wine and am enjoying a long lunch chatting with the friendly waiters and other patrons. I finish with a chocolate nut cake with raspberry and mango coulis. The waiter insist on bringing me one perfect Danish strawberry to try as well.

I’m so full, so I decide to get on my bike and bike the half hour to the cemetery where Hans Christian Anderson is buried. My one and only bike mishap happens on this ride. I signal the American way that I am turning right. I collide with a biker behind me also turning right. Many many curse words later— by him not me— I come to understand that a right turn is signaled not with the left elbow bent up but with the right arm outstretched. We are all fine and I continue my ride. Beautiful peaceful oasis and people strolling like it’s a park. I bike home and get ready to go out for the big celebration.

Basically I just walk and observe. Happy people everywhere!

Semi final game is tonight against England

Noise and partying. I have a reservation at Popl a hamburger place started by a NOMA alum. Quite a treat especially paired with a Riesling.

Popl burger made with cattle that graze freely in the Wadden Sea National Park

I wander and wander among the crowd enjoying the festivity and getting a beer here and there with the joyful celebrants.

With the game tied 1-1 at 11 pm and going into overtime I head back.The streets are deserted as everyone is celebrating together.

I am just in my room when at midnight I hear the eerie quiet. Denmark has lost! Walking 12.3 miles today

Thursday July 8, 2021

I switch hotels today from the Nobis to the Sanders, as my fabulous friends who have been the catalyst for making this trip are arriving today and that is where they are staying. I say goodbye to the wonderful staff at the Nobis: Dora, Ishara, DeJon, Alexander and Diane. Arriving at the Sanders I find Asteroula at the front desk has upgraded me to a beautiful room and that the staff here are equally attentive and lovely.

When my friends arrive we head to the Apollo Bar for a snack and to see the art exhibit showing there.

Tonight we are dining at Joudnær, a Michelin two star restaurant owned by Eric Vildgaard and his wife Tina. The story of how Chef Eric went from gang enforcer to acclaimed chef has the makings of a dramatic movie. I urge you to read about his inspirational story. The end of the story is the love of his wife and the love of cooking brought this amazing restaurant to life and to us.

It is an breathtaking 19 course dinner with the service as well choreographed as any ballet. The name of the restaurant translates to “down to earth” and it is a vegetable/seafood forward menu. I’ll let the dishes speak for themselves. After dinner we tour the kitchen which is as delightful as any dessert. Walking 11.7 miles today

Friday July 9, 2021

Great breakfast at the Sanders made even better by the delightful David in the cafe. Today we stroll down the shopping street stopping into the big Illum department store. An employee explains a process whereby they remove the moisture from fresh flowers and replace it with a preserving serum. She then arranges the flowers and the bouquets will last for years.

Onward we go to the meatpacking district where we see more art galleries before walking home to get ready for our dinner at Bæst in the inner Nørrebro area of Copenhagen. This is Christian Puglisi’s Italian restaurant where all the ingredients are grown or raised on his organic farm.

Two pizzas and many yummy other courses later we taxi back. Walking 10.7 miles

Saturday

Today we go to the Louisiana Museum. The name derives from the first owner of the property , Alexander Brun, who named the villa after his three wives, all called Louise. The museum is 22 miles north of Copenhagen and is the most visited art museum in Denmark. The exhibits which impress me are one called Mor! ( Mother), a video work by Arthur Jafa entitled Love is the Message, the Message is Death and one of paintings by a Swedish artist, Mamma Andersson. The Jafa video contrasts the fame and status of black athletes and musicians with the treatment of the African American population in general. The place itself is quite impressive and there is art installed all over the grounds outside.

We decide to try to take the train home. We had many problems getting the ticket machine to work and when the train arrives we just hop on hoping to buy thru the app on our phone before the conductor arrives. With seconds to spare, we achieve success with the app and therefore incur no fines or jail time for violating the train rules. Good thing we are not in jail because tonight is Noma.

Noma is of course one of the most acclaimed restaurants in the world. The chef Rene Redzepi has created a gastronomic mecca of Nordic cuisine. The new location is on a large plot of land with greenhouses and herb gardens. Every detail of the many buildings on the property and the open kitchen has been meticulously planned. We have 17 courses each one as beautiful as a painting. Again I will let the pictures speak for the experience. We tour the kitchen of Noma and learn about the concept and the inner workings of this awe inspiring place.

Cardamon Candles–walnut wicks and caramels to eat after flame goes out

We choose to walk home with the Copenhagen sky doing a private show for us. Walking 9.1 miles

Sunday

I am sad to leave Copenhagen this morning, but my flight is at noon so one last breakfast and I say goodbye until the next time. In my week here I’ve walked the equivalent of 3 marathons and enjoyed becoming a part of the biking public . In summary? Copenhagen…..gorgeous canals leading out to the sea, an extraordinary food scene, awe inspiring art, cobblestone streets filled with cafes and wine bars, and the nicest population of anywhere I’ve traveled.

Planning a Solo Adventure

Traveling alone has a lot of perks, from meeting new people to changing your mind on a whim.

I just completed a week long workshop at Rancho la Puerta called Transitions, Transformations and Travel. All the sessions were well attended and enjoyable. I promised the attendees I would post on my site a brief article I wrote for Via magazine on traveling solo. Enjoy!

By Shirley Buccieri

Would you like to go on a trip with someone you know intimately, do exactly what you want to do, whenever you want to do it, and never once have to share your dessert? Then get on board with one of the hottest trends in the travel industry–Traveling Solo. The changing demographics of American households, the frustration of trying to mesh friends and partners’ work schedules and interests, and even the popularity of the book and movie Eat, Pray Love mean more and more people are hitting the road alone. For many people, traveling solo is an intriguing concept, but for some, that fascination is mixed with fear. So what are the ways to tip that scale in your favor and acquire the skills of successful solo travelers?

Optimizing your solo travels means mastering three basic concepts: (1) the practical mechanics of what to do when “It’s all on you”, (2) dealing with the number one concern of solo travelers–loneliness, and (3) embracing the experience to get the most out of being on a trip with yourself.

Practical Mechanics

Do your homework. You won’t have a navigator to say get off at this exit or a friend to watch your luggage while you roam about checking out the bus vs. taxi option at the airport. Advanced planning before you leave home is paramount. Whether you are heading up to wine country or flying to Berlin, know your route, transportation options and the general lay of the land before you leave home. Print out maps of things you want to do or put those destinations into your mobile phone or GPS. Make at least your first night’s hotel reservation ahead of time and know how you are getting there when you arrive.

Be Safe. Trust your gut. Going solo means the fun of talking to new people alone and accepting impromptu invitations. But if something doesn’t seem right, trust your intuition and know that it is best to pass on that conversation or opportunity and exit. Also, dressing and behaving in the manner of the place you are visiting goes a long way towards not labeling you as an outsider and that is good for both safety and enjoying your visit. Open your eyes and take your cues from those around you.

Don’t be Lonely

Put lines in the water. One of the things most solo travelers worry about is being lonely, or if not lonely, not having someone to share the wonderful food, art, or performance they are experiencing. This is where having put lines in the water ahead of time will really pay off. Having connections at your destination is a matter of asking people at home to E-connect you with locals they know via email before you leave home. Ask your friends, your doctor, your colleagues–everyone. A certain percentage of these “lines” will pay off. You can follow up when you arrive and set in place at intervals that suit you, dinners, lunches, coffees or drinks. The nice thing is–one connection leads to another connection and you can pepper your aloneness with as much local companionship as you want to add to your vacation.

Meet people on your terms. A solo trip has room for as much or as little interaction as you want. While enjoying the freedom and flexibility of a solo outing, it is actually easier to meet people when you are a solo traveler. Become a regular at a local coffee house and not only get great local tips, the aura of a regular means you will meet other locals as well. Choose places that have communal tables. A person alone is much more approachable than a group, or even a couple, so don’t be surprised if people strike up a conversation with you. Enjoy it! Need a loneliness fix? Get the benefits of a group without being one by signing up for a local walking tour of something that interest you at your destination. Ask people to take your picture or offer to take theirs.

Embrace the Experience

Go for it. Now that you have bravely taken your trip, get the most out of it. Put aside your electronic devices and look around. Walk as much as possible or take public transportation. Keep a journal both as a silent companion, but also to note how this experience is changing you. Write down the lessons you are learning from this trip. Contemplation and personal growth come naturally on a solo trip. When traveling with someone, sometimes we temper our curiosity to fit another person’s expectations–solo travel allows uninhibited observation of others and unbridled curiosity.

Mistakes-who cares! One of the nicest things about solo travel is you learn to cope with your own mistakes and laugh. Got on the wrong train? No one to blame, so you shrug and get off at the next stop and make an adventure of a place you didn’t intend to see.

No one else to please, so please yourself. You want to linger in the cafe for an hour? Do it. This museum is boring? Leave. Don’t rush through your trip. Make conscious choices and please yourself. Get lost on purpose. Solo travel lets you be spontaneous and design your own adventure without compromise or negotiation.

Have themes. As you get the hang of solo travel, it is fun to have recurrent themes that you explore. Maybe you visit every place with an eye towards “What is the coffee culture?” Or maybe in each location you look at the dynamics of people and their pets? Or maybe you just want to sip an Old Fashion in every place you visit and compare and contrast that simple pleasure. Go ahead–it’s your trip!

“To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world”–Freya Stark

This article first appeared in Via Magazine.

Savouring Sanguis and the last few days of Shirleyfest 2020

Before leaving Santa Barbara, I visit Sanguis Winery. It is one of two wineries I really want to experience during my month (the other is MarBeSo which I wrote about last post). My desire to visit starts with this quote I read on Sanguis’ website, “There is BEAUTY IN ORDER — but to merely accept this as a fact of life is to surrender to the status quo. In this way things will be predictable, monotonous and boring.The ‘Secret’ to making beautiful wine is to work hard at not giving into the seduction of routine and instead to continue experimenting and pushing the limits by exploring new directions. ” This sounds like a wine version of my philosophy of life. So I bike over after my lunch at La Super-Rica and knock on the door of the winery, set in Santa Barbara’s industrial area. The owner and winemaker Matthias Pippig lets me in and I find him and his co- worker Elliot having lunch.

I explained my mission and Matthias interrupts his lunch to talk to me about Sanguis and how it came to be in 2004 with his wife Jamie. Bavarian born Matthias has had many past lives including jazz musician and a stint at La Brea Bakery. I learn of his passion for capturing nature’s beauty in crafting electric Rhône and Bordeaux style blends. Matthias is heading out to Oregon for a new wine project, but he sets me up to have a tasting in a couple of days with his colleague Robin.

Robin amazes me wIth her knowledge. She tells me all about the building and how it became this unique winery at the edge of town. She shows me the process the winery is using to make the perfect wines, and how Sanguis embraces what nature provides. She talks about how they are working with the farmers in all aspects of the planting, pruning, and picking. Then we get down to the business of tasting. From Stolen Moments, to Loner to the Optimist to Bossman I am loving the depth and nuance of these wines. It won’t surprise any of my readers that I have to own some of the Optimist.

While we taste. we exchange ideas about travel and life. I do not know when I have had a better full range conversation with someone I had only just met. A native of Santa Barbara, Robin is an athlete ( dancer) and as such she has focus, spirit and the ability to rise to new challenges. She also loves food and before I go she gives me two good tips. Revolver Pizza and a new wine bar called Venus in Furs.

I am actually fairly hungry after the tasting and even though Robin was dubious that I could get a pizza that day, as they limit what they make, I give Revolver a call. Luck is with me.

A chef driven New York style pizza place only opened one month, Revolver takes on the name of the Beatles iconic album which for the Beatles was a leap into the future. So it is with the trio of men collaborating on this new venture. As Robin suggests, I take my prize pizza to Mesa Lane Beach nearby and have my own psychedelic experience of all my senses being happy from the memories of the day at Sanguis Winery and now the delicious pizza and the incredible view of the sun on the beach.

I have been following the Santa Barbara zoo on instagram and thinking of dropping by. I learn from my new friends Paul and Lynn that if I bike there I can also bike to the Andrée Clark Bird Refuge so that is my plan. The zoo is nicely laid out and manageable. I do believe I am the only person at the zoo without a child in tow, but I don’t care, I’m doing research.

A short bike ride later I am at the Andrée Clark Bird Refuge, one of the largest wildlife refuges in Santa Barbara County. It is named for the older sister of the heiress Huguenots Clark, who owned Bellosguardo (which is near the refuge), one of the several empty mansions of the reclusive copper heiress who died in 2011 at the age of 104. Bellosguardo sat furnished but unvisited by Huguette Clark after 1951. The staff was under orders to keep the home as it was, and automobiles remained in the carriage house with 1949 license plates, as described in the Clark biography Empty Mansions. The heiress funded the refuge in honor of her sister who died a week before her 17th birthday. There are over 200 species of birds in the refuge. It is so peaceful just sitting here taking in the refuge, the palm tress and the view of the ocean nearby.

Remembering Robin’s other recommendation, that night my neighbor Lynn and I head to the brand new Venus in Furs wine bar/cafe. It is a collaboration of a well known restaurant group in town named after the song by the Velvet Underground who named the song after an 1870 novella by Austrian author Leopold von Sacher-Masoch. The front of house, Jamie, talks to us about the opening and gives us some background before we settle into a wine cocktail. All the cocktails are made with wine–not hard alcohol. Our choice is the Bee’s Lee’s, a delicious concoction of textured white winer, yellow peach blanc vermouth, honey and lemon.

After consulting with our lovely server, Jo, we smartly pair the drinks with some garden fritters made of olives, fried greens and citrus.

We eventually move on to try some of the wines paired with the spiced lamb belly and the melon with duck prosciutto and persimmons. A fun evening and so great to be able to walk to the restaurant and then walk home under the Santa Barbara moon. We didn’t have dessert and that may be my fault. Earlier in the day, hot from my bike ride I made a little stop.

The last morning in Santa Barbara I do one last bike ride along the beach. I lock my bike up and go for one last stroll at the water’s edge. Thank you Santa Barbara and thank you all the wonderful people I met during my month here. I’ll be back.

Happy Birthday Drink Eat Laugh

Wednesday was my birthday. I was told those last 5 words that day and here it is 72 hours later and I still can repeat them. The tick of one year older has not caused any mental degradation in me! Can you remember these words? More about my birthday later.

Friday morning I head off for the Montecito Farmer’s Market. I love Farmer’s Markets, but also I was hoping Megan, Harry and Archie might be there picking up some local squashes or peaches. No such luck, but I did find some chayote which I had never seen before. It is a gourd originally from Columbia and is cooked like a summer squash.

After the Farmer’s Market I head straight up and 10 minutes later I am at Lotusland. Lotusland is an amazing botanical garden. Madame Ganna Walska, a well-known Polish opera singer and socialite, purchased the Montecito estate in 1941 and spent the next 43 years creating Lotusland, today recognized as one of the best gardens in the world. There is a spectacular collections of exotic plants on the 37-acre property. I start in the cycad area and a guide points to these large three cycads and tells me they are called the three bachelors. Madame Walska sold off a million dollars of her jewelry to get these and the other cycads. These three are sub tropical plants that lived over 250 million years ago, before the dinosaurs. They are no surviving female plants for the three bachelors on the planet today. As a single lady I find this amusing.

There are guides throughout the garden. I learn so much from each of them. Cory, the Gardner, talks to me about bees— native bees, bumblebees, honeybees. I learn there are over 4000 species of bees and that they morphed from wasps. They have an entire section devoted to flowers that the bees and butterfly’s love.

Honestly there is so much to tell about every section of the garden that I can’t do it justice. Let me just post a few more pictures I took and then encourage you to get a ticket if you are ever in Santa Barbara.

The one Farmer’s Market that I still want to get to is the Fishermans Market out on the wharf where the freshest catches are brought in from 6-11 on Saturday Morning. Today is the day.

It is so fun to see all the fishing boats and local fish, a lot of which is caught in the Channel Islands. I had a great talk with Paul who was selling vermillion ( like snapper) with his assistant Dylan. Paul tells me why the eyes of the fish bulge out ( has to do with a little balancing sac in the fish that expands when the fish come up from the deep sea).

Paul has been doing this for 40 years and seems to love both the fishing and the market. Paul tells me about an Italian man Salvatore Castagnola born in Italy in 1876. He came to the United States through New York in 1904. Salvatore started building fishing skiffs and acquired a fleet of 7 fishing boats. The family opened a fish market in 1929 in Santa Barbara and they shipped fish all over California. He and his wife had 11 children. One of the Castagnola fishing boats came up for sale and Paul bought it. It is named Sal C after Salvatore. He let me take a picture of him with his boat.

I have biked to the Fisherman’s Market so now I start biking to meet my new SB friends at La Super-Rica Taqueria. This beloved institution has been drawing crowds for decades from near and far with its simple, delicious food. Julia Child put it on the map when she moved to Santa Barbara after husband passed away. She announced in numerous interviews and magazines that it was her favorite spot. Lots of controversies exists as to its enduring claim to fame but I just want you to know that I loved it.

I beat my three friends there ( because I’m on my bike and don’t have to park) and get in the line. When they arrive they all have their favorites but I am torn.

I finally go for the Super Rica Especial (#16) and a special of the day fish tamale. If you look at these prices you see that over ordering isn’t a financial burden ( but it is a waistline burden). The people working here are so very nice.

This is Hector. I hung out talking to him while orders came and went. He has worked here for 20 years and takes such pride in his work. After a while he tells me, “ Shirley, you can call me Tito. That’s my nickname.” My order is up and it looks so delicious! Here is my tamale and my Super Rica Especial.

Here are my friends who suggested this outing. Lynn, Susan and Lynda.

But wait what about my birthday? Or birthday week actually. Do you remember those 5 words I told you at the beginning of this post. I was afraid of that. Happy Birthday Drink Eat Laugh

My brother John and sister in law Virginia arrive Monday night. We head out for a great tapas meal at Loquita in the Funk Zone to kick things off. The next day we hike the Carpinteria Bluffs Nature Preserve. It is a beautiful protected area where the Santa Ynez Mountains can be seen to the north and the Channel Islands to the south. There is a view down to the Carpinteria Harbor Seal Rockery. The seals are there year round.

Now it is Wednesday my actual birthday. We start at a local art gallery, Sullivan Goss, to see the paintings of a local artist named Hank Pitcher.

Virginia and I are quite taken by another local artist in the gallery, Erika Carter. Her paintings are rooted in her travels to central Mexico. We both want this lady to grace a room in our homes.

When we arrive back at home, there are beautiful birthday flowers from two of my favorite people.

Now we head up to Buellton. First for a visit to Pence Winery. I mentioned Pence in one of my earlier posts. This time we sit in the Canyon and have a wonderful afternoon sipping their delicious wines.

But honestly the highlight of the wine experience is still to come. A brand new undertaking by Colin McNany, his wife Hannah and the adorable Poppy. I know this family from Colin’s days as the winemaker at La Honda Winery in the Bay Area. The new winery is called MarBeSo. They have a passion for coastal influenced wines. Please put this winery on your radar and get in on their wine futures. You will not be sorry.

Dinner tonight we easily walk to my favorite Olio e Limone. Despite my resolution to forgo dessert it comes out with a candle so what can I do but have a bite or two… or three.

John and Virginia leave Thursday and I would be sad except my friend Joan has invited me for a delicious lunch of a salmon salad from NYT Cooking at her beautiful home. It is so nice to meet new people on Shirleyfest with which you have an instant connection.

That evening I head to Hendry’s beach and catch the sunset and feel so blessed by all the love and friendship I have experienced this birthday.

And do you believe it, there is one more birthday dinner? Last year in Kyoto Angela and Jim helped me celebrate my birthday and they have made a return visit to to do that again this year. We head to Ca’ Dario and have one more beautiful celebration.

Another birthday, another post. Next and maybe last post will be in the next few days. Until then thanks for visiting Shirleyfest.

Food glorious food!

I am sitting on State Street which has been turned into a pedestrian zone, eating a Yoga Pants Salad and drinking a Sunshine Spritz and talking to the delightful Paul of Satellite about natural wines. It is noon on a Friday in Santa Barbara. The salad is created from the Santa Barbara Farmer’s Market offerings and the owner, Emma West, packed it with vegan protein to lure the patrons of the yoga studio next door after their sessions. The Sunshine Spritz is like an aperol spritz but two local vermouths replace the aperol. Paul gave me the recipe and I’ll make you one next time you come to my house. Better yet, come to Satellite the next time you are in SB.

Since I just had a “little” salad for lunch, I am happy to dig into Via Maestro’ fresh clams and linguine for dinner tonight with my new friends Lynn and Susan.

Via Maestro actually started as an Italian import business and then 20 years ago Renalto decided to showcase the products he had been supplying to restaurants by opening a restaurant of his own. It is a not well kept secret of every local I talk to.

So how do I choose where to eat and drink on Shirleyfest? I start by reading food blogs. Food bloggers have the inside scoop much more so than travel guides, TripAdvisor or Yelp. I almost never use those sources as they run to the touristy side of eating. I consult the travel writings of the New York Times, the Washington Post and the Guardian as I have calibrated those sources to usually be spot on with what I like. Then I talk to locals and most importantly when I like a restaurant I ask the chef where the chef likes to eat. I always keep a notebook and pen with me and you would be surprised how many chefs and restaurant workers have scribbled out fabulous places that I would never have known about.

But before food there is the cocktail hour. I learned of Test Pilot from a food blog. When my sister MJ came to town last week we headed straight over. I had the Millennial Falcon Fizz and MJ had the Spicy Margarita. Excellent! See happy sister below.

We proceed to dinner at Bouchon, recommended by several friends. Take a look at that bottle of wine behind me.

Remember in post #1 where I found a Santa Barbara Gruner Veltliner I loved? This restaurant didn’t have it on their list but our server agreed it is really the best so he went and found a bottle for us to have. The wine is the Tatomer Gruner Veltliner.

The day after Bouchon, MJ and I rode bikes out o Butterfly Beach and then my friends Tom and John joined Shirleyfest. We walked all over town before ending up at the Santa Barbara Shellfish Company where I ate my first night in Santa Barbara This time I went for the fresh Dungeness Crab Louis.

All that walking led of course to needing sustenance so the guys had McConnell’s ice cream— which has been around for decades and is the finest ice cream in the world according to Time magazine. Organic eggs, grass grazed cows producing the milk and nothing added. I resisted that but broke down at Chocolate Maya. Maya is a Swiss woman, who 20 years ago, finding no fine chocolates in this area returned to Switzerland and studied under famous Swiss chocolatiers to return and open her fine chocolate shop. In talking with her we discovered we had both been in the same fine chocolate shop in Kyoto last year at the exact same time.

Hours pass before we all reunite at The Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch for the most beautiful, extravagant dining experience in Santa Barbara. We are ushered to a table under a canopy of twinkly lights and start with a flatbread and cocktails. This is followed by amazing local halibut and Steak Diane and…..please stop me before I explode!

The next day we are going wine tasting at three wineries just north of here. You know what that means— gotta eat before tasting. We head to Industrial Eats in Buellton. It is a restaurant tucked into a re-purposed warehouse in the town made famous by the movie Sideways. The ingredients are all grown on the surrounding farms,

We first taste at Alma Rosa next door and then drive 10 minutes to Pence Winery , a 220 acre working ranch owned by Blair Pence, a Burgundy lover. His wines are esteemed Pinot noirs and chardonnays. The tasting is so beautiful as we are led past a pond and into a canyon for a private tasting with Mia.

We also do a very nice tasting at Melville Winery, but it is soon time to head back to Santa Barbara for a dinner overlooking the city at El Canto. It is straight up from where I am staying so MJ and I walk up and meet Tom and John. We feasted on whole Branzino while seeing the city glitter below.

The next day MJ and I hike for miles on Hendry’s beach and Tom and John meet us there after a long bike ride. We eat at the Boathouse Restaurant overlooking the beach. The hostess sends over a mud pie because we had to wait for our table and I think MJ and I got a teaspoon each.

That night we eat at Lark, a favorite for a long time. The Lark is named after the overnight Pullman train of Southern Pacific Railroad that serviced Santa Barbara from 1910 to 1968. The octopus there is so tender!

Before MJ leaves we bike to a great brunch at Joe’s Cafe and make a stop at Oat Bakery, my very favorite in Santa Barbara. It is called a superfood bakery for its all natural ingredients but you would never know it. Lovely Anna is so helpful and suggests I get everything.

Now I am on my own and I know what I want to do. Go to Cold Spring Tavern. It was an old stagecoach stop in 1865 and is about 20 minutes drive away. In the 1800s drivers would change horses there and have a meal. It is a throwback in time. It is a beautiful drive there. I made a reservation and I am glad I did as even at 11:30 the place is getting crowded with interesting types. I get a great table out back and go for the special tri- tip sandwich with onion rings. Delicious!

I think it is time to call it quits on food glorious food. There are some great other places I have tried: like Tyger Tyger (Thai) and Los Agaves ( Mexican) but I think you are full now.

Tomorrow I am hiking to Inspiration Point and going to try to only eat lettuce all day!

Channeling Santa Barbara…..how I saw the biggest mammal in the world

I’ve always wanted to go to the Channel Islands. It seems so mysterious. I jump out of bed at 6 am and then head down to Ventura to catch the boat. I am not disappointed as the harbor is shrouded in fog.

My new friend Joan has agreed to go on the adventure with me and after about 90 minutes we reach the exotic Santa Cruz Island. According to legend, Santa Cruz Island was named for a priest’s staff accidentally left on the island during the Portola expedition of 1769. A Chumash Indian found the cross-tipped stave and returned it to the priest. The Spaniards were so impressed that they called this island of friendly people “La Isla de Santa Cruz,” the Island of the Sacred Cross. It is the largest island in California and has a rich history of over 10,000 years of habitation. Today we are a small group of adventurers who temporarily inhabit this beautiful place.

The fog has lifted to showcase the beautiful blue water and an unbelievable variety of flora and fauna. We are offered the opportunity to hike to Pelican Bay, a “strenuous” hike if we sign a waiver. Of course we do.

We have a well deserved picnic at the end of the climb overlooking the bay.

Back down to the shore we explore the beautiful coastline.

Now we embark for the journey back. The sun is shining and we are treated to dolphins jumping along side the boat.

But the best was yet to come. Cue Jaws music. What is that bright blue object just under the surface of the water?

It is a blue whale, the biggest mammal on earth. 100 feet long and weighing 100 tons. And guess what? They live to be between 70 and 100 years old ( the oldest one recorded was 103). This one was a joy to watch. They generally stay down about 8 minutes so we patiently waited and then this happened.

It was a fabulous day and I can’t believe how lucky we are to have the Channel Islands so accessible.

The Channel Islands haven’t been my only adventure since my last post. I am coming to realize that Santa Barbara has 4 main things going for it: Water, mountains, wineries and the town. Let me take you back to the end of my last post to show you what I mean. I’ll start with water and go in all four directions.

After a great brunch with new friends Paul and Lynn and their boys, I took myself on a little exploration road trip. I saw the resort Bacara in the west, sitting on a remote lovely beach.

Then I went west to Santa Claus Beach and Padaro Beach and walked a long ways just loving the beautiful homes on the beach.

I went due south to Hendry’s beach shown above and then north to Lake Casita.

Water everywhere! Then there are the mountains. Santa Barbara is blessed with the very usual transverse mountains ( East-West). Most of the Santa Ynez mountains are in the Los Padres National Forest. I tried to hike in the mountains my first few days here but with all the fires it was forbidden. They call it Red Flag Days. I have to say the locals all know when those days are, but it is very hard for a visitor to find out. Luckily I have made friends with my next door neighbor, Lynn, who clues me in. If you park your car and go hiking on a red flag day— it is towed!

The ban has been lifted and I have done a lot of hiking since. The views from the mountains are fantastic.

The day before the Channel Island trip I combined the mountains and the ocean to go from the highest point I could hike to kayaking at sea level at sunset. I started off on Cold Spring Trail but then veered towards the top of the ridge.

(more…)

Santa Stunningly Beautiful Barbara

I didn’t know what to expect this year. No long airplane ride, no changing currency and time zones. No cell phone plan, no long cab ride from the airport to my new home and then figuring out how to work the lock in the dark. No pondering how to get a metro card on the first day. Nope, I just lock my front door and hop in my car.

I finish the 5 hour drive by cutting over on Route 154 and passing the most beautiful lake, forest and wineries. And suddenly I am here in my new home for 30 days.

Everywhere you look in Santa Barbara you find beauty. The sky is so blue, the palm trees line most streets and , well, the weather…..After getting settled in I walk down State Street which has been turned into a pedestrian zone.

Restaurants spill out onto the sidewalk. I meander until I reach the end of Stearns Wharf. This long wharf was built by a lumberman so that his ships could off load their lumber rather than throwing the lumber into the ocean and having it float to shore. It was a bustling business until the railroads came to California and took over the hauling of lumber. Now it is protected from becoming a Pier 39 or Santa Monica amusement area by the SB city council, but it does have a couple great places to grab dinner. So I did. At Santa Barbara Shellfish Company.

The next day, I start by finding the best coffee place in town: Handlebar Coffee. Delicious coffee and a great crew working there. Shout out to Brianna.

Not far away is a historic neighborhood I want to see called Brinkerhoff Ave. I bike there and it is a well preserved architectural showcase. It is named after Mr Brinkerhoff, a medical doctor from the east coast who persuaded people that the fumes from the tar in the sand in Santa Barbara was good for their health. He bought the whole block for $20. That idea coupled with the advent of the railroads and Sunset magazine luring people to the easy living of SB caused a huge influx in SB in the late 19th century. Then I bike along the beach for a long ways, seeing the stunning coast line and biking along a flower filled path.

I return to the area called the Funk Zone. This was a run down industrial area until it was turned into a “funky” interesting artist/restaurant/urban tasting trail. I have scheduled a walking tour but before it starts, I get in line at Mony’s, a little walk up burrito/taco shack. Mony’s is said to have the best Mexican food outside of Mexico City. It was delicious!

The walking tour is given by John and happily my two new neighbors, Lynn and Lynda, join the tour. He does a great job of showing us the history behind the current buildings and is a wealth of knowledge. His favorite ( and mine) was a building called Plant 59 where in 1942 Lockheed secretly moved half their operations into in order to avoid an anticipated strike by the Japanese on Los Angeles ( which never happened). There are little artist studios everywhere.

This is one where after having her windows vandalized, the artist decided to put up big scale art work instead of new windows. This used to be the headquarters of Weber bread— the west coast equivalent of Wonder Bread. Those train tracks are where the flour was dumped off each week by the rail.

Speaking of flour, Helena Ave Bakery is really well know in SB. I stop by for a cup of coffee and a piece of their sourdough toast the next morning.

I am pretty sure that is an entire jar of blueberry lavender jam on that toast. Ok well I’m biking off to join a Harbor Tour with John.

Another great tour that helps me understand the history of this wonderful place. We end with the famous Moreton Bay fig tree, planted from a seed in 1876 given by an Australian seaman to a little local girl that now 10,000 people can stay in the shade of and the beautiful SB railway station.

After the tour, I explore the Ambassador neighborhood of SB. Small homes and apartments near the ocean.

As many my followers know, one of the best parts of Shirleyfest is meeting people at my local destination. This evening I meet Joan, introduced to me by my friend Lila ( who visited me on Berlin Shirleyfest). We had a bite and drinks at the venerable Joe’s Cafe and had a great time discussing our mutual love of travel.

Coincidentally the next morning I am meeting another of Lila’s introductions, Maggie, who lives in Ojai. We agree to meet at Field and Fort in Summerland. It is a beautiful day and I decide to bike the 7 miles there. Another terrific person! I learn so much from meeting locals— why they moved to my host city, their favorite spots, but most of all it fits into the Tao of Shirleyfest. The real point of my travel is not vacation but exploration and part of that is in connecting with others. As Teddy Roosevelt’s uncle Robert once said after Teddy Sr wrote home from Europe about the sites he’d seen, “ I’m afraid, Theodore, you have mistaken the object of travel. It is not to see scenery…it is to see men. To enlarge your mind you must converse with and see the bent of minds of other people.” And so it goes with my Shirleyfest.

Later that night I head to an art gallery exposition followed by wine tasting at the Santa Barbara Wine Collective. Santa Barbara is one of the most interesting wine regions and famously is the longest East to West valley from Alaska to South America. This means the climate is perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.

The lovely Brooklyn pours me a flight of Santa Barbara whites and was nice enough to switch out one for a SB gruner veltliner that I was excited to try. For years this Austrian denominated wine has been my favorite white. I certainly drank a lot of it on Vienna Shirleyfest. I was excited to find a local winery making that wine. (Tatomer Winery). During the tasting I had a great conversation with Grace and Garret, there with their lovely baby Remi.

The next day is warm. I walk to the Saturday farmer’s market which is large and diverse. I see lots of chefs loading up their carts for their restaurants. I stop by the tiny but lovely Alice Keck Garden on my way home.

My brother John and sister-in-law Virginia ( the owners of this lovely home I’m inhabiting for SB Shirleyfest- I can’t say thank you enough times for that 🙏) took me to the Douglas Family Preserve when we visited together in August. I remember them telling me you could see great sunsets from there, so tonight I drive back and I am not disappointed.

So that is my first five days of Santa Barbara Shirleyfest. As I look out at the sunset, I am so happy I pivoted to SB for my 10th Shirleyfest and didn’t let the coronavirus cancel my exploration. I’ m looking forward to what comes next on this year’s Shirleyfest.

Oh yes there will be a Shirleyfest 2020

So far 2020 has brought us all a lot of bad news….coronavirus, social unrest, so many untimely deaths, impeachment, Brexit, stock market melt downs, floods, fires and locust …..I think we all are looking for some positive relief, both globally and personally. My original Shirleyfest plans were scuttled when France said “merci, mais non” to any US visitors. This being my 10th Shirleyfest, I definitely wasn’t going to forgo my month tradition, so I needed to regroup quickly. I am so happy to announce that Shirleyfest 2020 will be in Santa Barbara, Ca. It’s a 5 hour car ( not plane) ride away with excellent September weather and loads of trails and beaches. It has a rich history that I’m looking forward to digging into as well. Did you know it has been inhabited for 13,000 years ( originally by hunter-gathers known as the Chumash people) and the oldest human remains in North America, a 10,000 year old skeleton called the Arlington Springs Man, were found there? It has been leveled twice by earthquakes (1812 and 1925) and the avocado craze started in Santa Barbara when a local judge brought in the tree from Mexico in 1871.

Please pass along any suggestions you have for this year’s adventure and let me know if you know people there that I could meet ( socially distance of course). I hope you will follow along on this blog during September!

When life gives you a typhoon make typhood

A train ride away there is some great mountain hiking. I headed up to Karama to do the trail through the forest to Kibune. At several stops, ladies who were friends got on to make a day of hiking of together. As we started the trail I took their picture and then showed them how to use air drop to get it from me.Take a look at that neat Audrey Hepburn shirt.

The hike was really beautiful and I met many nice people with the same idea, including these two Austrian men. The photo at the top of this post is the start of the trail. I finished my hike with a nice lunch along the river and then made my way back to Kyoto. Tonight I will finally meet Gerhard who was introduced to me several years ago by my friend Amanda. As Gerhard grew up in Vienna, he helped me with that Shirleyfest in 2017. He lives in Tokyo so he was so much help on this current trip. He kindly stopped in Kyoto on a business trip to Osaka and we had a fantastic dinner and conversation at Maruhuku. The manager Yuki was a lot of fun and brought us lots of delicious sake to go with our sushi. My friend Momoko came by and introduced me to a new restaurant focused on locally sourced vegetables. It is called Izakaya Negiya. Negi means leek. We had a great lunch and then went gallery hopping. As an eye drop user, I was captivated by this one piece of art. Maybe I’ve been doing the eye drops all wrong.I took another cooking class recently. This time it was Bento Box cooking. It was great because once you learn the underlying basics you can apply them to lots of dishes. I even learned how to make sushi rolls. As the typhoon passed through Kyoto today I tried to use some of my newly acquired skills to make myself lunch at home in my little kitchen. I made my own dashi and that was the basis for home cooked miso soup, squash with plum topping and teriyaki chicken. Typhoon food!

I’m not sure I’m getting the high level of concern over this typhoon. It’s been raining today but I went out in it several times and it is no worse than a December California rain storm. They closed the Kyoto National Museum which seems odd as that is where people would want to go on a raining day. They even closed Starbucks early!This is what the sky looked like last night as I walked home from dinner. I always thought it was red sky at night sailor’s delight. Guess not. Tomorrow will be a beautiful sunny day here!

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: