Act 1: “Day Tripper”

Day trips are an important part of each Shirleyfest. Usually my day trips are scattered throughout the month, but this time my visitors’ schedule meant they have all come in the last week. It is nice in a way to be able to compare and contrast them in a short time span. I have developed a really good system for day trips that I then tweak for each city. My methodology is so good that yesterday I was contemplating writing an article called “The art of perfect holiday day trips.” Then, just to keep me humble, I had an amateur goof that I’ll tell you about at the end of Act 1.

Segovia, Spain

The aqueduct in Segovia is one of the most spectacular legacies of the Roman Empire in Spain. It is made up of 166 arches spanning more than 10 miles. It transports water from La Acebeda to the Alcázar, defying the laws of gravity, since the only thing that keeps the structure standing is its balance of forces; no kind of mortar was used in its construction.

Wednesday night, I am out to dinner with my new friend Chris. Afterwards, we join an InterNations meet up in Retiro Park. So many people from so many countries drinking and listening to music at a bar in the middle of the park. I meet such interesting men and women! I tell you this because it was so much fun that I don’t walk back thru the park and reach my flat until after midnight. But…. I really want to see those Segovian aqueducts! I’m up early and catch the local train to the major train station at Chamartin. Quickly changing tracks, I take the 27 minute fast train to Segovia. I hop the waiting bus and 10 minutes later I’m standing in front of the aqueducts.

First, I sit at an outdoor cafe just to admire this magnificent structure before walking through the old city to the wonderful Gothic Cathedral built in 1532.

Then it’s on to the Alcazar. There is a deep moat with a drawbridge which provides access to this fortress, which became the royal residence in the 13th century,

The views along the way are magnificent.

My local Madrid friends Lola and Gonzalo have told me that in Segovia I must eat at Casa Duque and I must order suckling pig and the local gigantic beans.

In Segovia, suckling pigs whose quality and authenticity are guaranteed by the label “Cochinilla de Segovia” are raised on specific farms dedicated entirely to this animal alone. What makes dishes of suckling pig different are the diet fed to the pig’s mother, the suckling’s weight (around 10 pounds ) and its age, which cannot exceed three weeks. Another one of the jewels of Segovia gastronomy apparently is the Judión Granja bean, named after the town of La Granja in San Ildefonso. Called judión for its large size, this bean is surprisingly very tender. I make a reservation from the train and I’m happy I did. Casa Duque is the oldest restaurant in Segovia and very well regarded. The beans come with chorizo sausage and a small something I had to ask about ( pig’s ear!). I left that last bit, but the beans and sausage are delicious. Then comes the suckling pig. My my. Excellent.

Too full for dessert, I finish my wine and check out Plaza Mayor where a lively market is taking place.

I wander around the old Jewish city.

I reverse my steps and head back to Madrid.

Toledo, Spain

The night before my Toledo excursion, I go to my favorite neighborhood place, Delivinos and while intending to stay just a short while, I run into Lola and we started talking and then Gonzalo joins us and a few others…it’s late again, but I’ve already bought my 8:40 am ticket to Toledo for the next day. Oh well..lots of coffee in the morning and I’m off.

I take the fast train and I am in Toledo in 30 minutes. I hop on the bus to the city center and after a little more coffee, I head for the alcazar fortress.

Once used as a Roman palace in the 3rd century, it was restored under Alfonso VI and Alfonso X and renovated in 1535. During the Spanish Civil War, nationalist Colonel Jose Moscardo Ituarte held the building against overwhelming Spanish Republican forces in the Siege of the Alcazar.

Oddly, no one is here. I roam about taking pictures, pretending I am in the Spanish military and enjoying having it all to myself.

Afterwards I go to the magnificent Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo.

This Cathedral is a Roman Catholic church built in a Gothic style. The site where now the cathedral stands has a long history. There was originally a 6th-century Visigothic basilica, but during the Muslim invasion, it was turned into a mosque for over 300 years. I used an audio guide as there was so much to see. It took my breath away.

Before taking a walking tour of the old city I take myself to lunch at the Michelin La Cabalas. Expecting a nice lunch, I have one of my best meals in Spain. See for yourself.

My walking tour with Carlos is interesting. I am glad I went to the Alcazar and the Cathedral before lunch, as his tour is of the back streets and neighborhoods of Toledo.

Very interesting and enjoyable. The train home is quick and easy.

Alacalá De Henares, Spain

I have to admit I had never heard of Alaclá De Henares before Monday night. I was at Alimentacion Quiroga at the invitation of Martin and Concha. They live part time in Madrid and part time in Dover, England. I met them the prior week at the same place we are now sitting. We started talking then and I knew I wanted to see them again. This time I ask about their favorite day trips from Madrid. They both agree: Alaclá De Henares. Hmmmm…what? Yikes how did I not know the birthplace of Cervantes and the home of one of the oldest universities in the world. The University of Alcalá was founded in 1293 as a medieval university and rebounded as a modern university in 1975. It attracts many Spanish and international students – many of whom come on Erasmus or study abroad programs. The university is also famous for its annual Cervantes Prize, awarded for lifetime achievement of a writer in the Spanish language. I tour the birthplace of Cervantes which is now a lovely museum, climb the tower and visit other historical building.

I’m really intent on finding these caramelized nuts that this city is famous for. They are called garrapiñadas and you can buy them at the stores but apparently there’s nothing like buying them from the Convent of the Poor Clares of San Diego (Convento de las Clarisas de San Diego), the candied almonds’ birthplace. The Poor Clares have been making garrapiñadas since their Order was established in Alcalá de Henares around 1670 . You buy almonds there by ringing a bell. A nun is hidden behind a turning booth and after you put money in the booth, she returns roasted almonds. You never see the nun, communication is verbal only.

Having secured my garrapiñadas, I’m ready for lunch. Martin said the best place is El Casino so there I head. I score a balcony table at this busy place. The daily menu is 15 euros and consists of three courses plus a beer or wine. This is one of the nicest restaurants in town. How do they do it?! I’m happy to partake.

Afterwards another fast train ride home.

El Escaroil

When my new friend Monica left for England, she texted me to be sure to go to El Escaroil.

El Escorial is a vast building complex located in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, near Madrid. The building is the most important architectural monument of the Spanish Renaissance. Construction of El Escorial began in 1563 and ended in 1584. The project was conceived by King Philip II, who wanted a building to serve the multiple purposes of a burial place for his father, Holy Roman emperor Charles V; a Hieronymite monastery; and a palace. Several other people mentioned that I must see this place. Interestingly Martin and Concha thought it was not to be visited. I may have misunderstood, but I think they believed it was built on the backs of the less fortunate and therefore should be shunned. I decided I would have to decide for myself.

While every guide book says to take the bus to El Escaroil, I am not a fan of buses over trains ( see my post on Quebec City). It was really hard to get google to show me the way by train. And guidebooks warned that if you took the train you would have a long walk to the monastery. Hogwash! I easily took the local train a few blocks from my flat. When I arrive, it is a less than one mile walk through the Prince’s Palace park.

I arrive early and there is no line ( later I saw in the afternoon that the line was enormous). I buy a ticket and then ask if there is an English tour, as the only sign posted says tours in French and Spanish. The attendant looks at me and said “si” and hand writes a sign and tapes it to the window saying English tour in 15 minutes. I pay another 4 euros and wait. In 15 minutes, a big crowd gathers and the tour guide and the attendees start talking rapidly in Spanish. “Pardon” I say. “?Gita en Ingles”

The guide smiles and says, “oh you are the one”. She points to her colleague— “this is your English person”. Wait..it’s just me? Did they make up a tour for just me? Yes, I have a private guide for two hours all over this amazing monastery, church, school, gardens and library.

Her name is María. She says 90% of Spanish girls are given the name María as a first or middle name to honor the Virgin Mary. She is an excellent guide and tells me a lot of the nuances of why things were done the way they were. Honestly, it was fascinating. We see the king’s and queen’s apartments which have doors that open on either side of the huge basilica altar. They could go to mass without getting out of their beds. In the library, every book spine was covered with gold to indicate the wealth of the king.

After the tour, I walk into the little town and pick an outdoor cafe for a salad. Then it’s a lovely walk back thru the Prince’s Palace garden to the train station home.

We have come to the end of act 1 of the Shirleyfest Beatles Musical post. Act 2, coming right up. First though let me tell you about my Day Tripper goof. In Segovia yesterday, I was ready to catch my 6:30 pm train. I had an hour but I always leave a little buffer. I scoured the aqueduct area for a taxi, but none were to be found. The bus had let me off at the aqueduct that morning, so I thought I’ll just hop on the bus back. I put “Estación de tren de Segovia” into google maps and it said take the #8 bus and get off and walk 5 minutes. Totally doable. A little something in my head said, hmm it was the #11 bus when I came and there was no walking. So I look again and check the translation of “train station”……. same answer on google maps. Ok here comes the #8 bus. I hop on. Nice driver. I sit up front. We go a little while and I look up and the bus is going into the mountains. Woah! “Señor, ?Estación de tren Segovia?” He laughs. “ No no Wrong bus! You should have taken the #11.” He says all in Spanish. Yikes. He says “No te preocupes, te ayudaré. siéntate.” (I will help you. Sit down….I surmise) He starts looking carefully out the window. Another 10 minutes and I’m getting nervous. All of a sudden he pulls the bus over and says, “ look taxi— go”. I hop off the bus and run towards the taxi on the side of the road. “Hola” He opens the door and we speed off. I tell him the train station. I follow him on google maps and he is going nowhere near where google maps has the train station. Train station I say again in broken Spanish. “Si si.”10 more minutes. Suddenly we pull up outside the train station. I make my train. I really can’t let this go and I research when this train station opened. 2007. The one the google maps identified as the station was replaced in 2007! Thanks google maps.

Act 2 next post, “Happy Birthday”

Thanks for following along!

I sit in my coffee house, Las Columnas, across the street. Jose brings me a steaming Americano and Alfredo tells me he had a lazy weekend.

I look out the window and see business men having their coffee standing up outside so they can smoke and sip.

I am determined to write, when I get a call from Nick who is in Lisbon. We are making plans for my birthday weekend in Madrid. But I am getting ahead of myself. Let me fill you in since I posted last.

Tuesday I check out Los 33 for lunch, a neighborhood restaurant getting a lot of press. I sit by the open window and enjoy a beautiful salad.

Two different people, Monica and Felipe, have sat at the table next to me and each tells me their favorite spots in Madrid. We scan our contact data in with WhatsApp QR code and suddenly I have two new people from whom to learn about Madrid. It’s a gorgeous day and after lunch I walk to Plaza Mayor to meet Tony, a local who attends law school here.

I met Tony at Cambridge this summer when we were both enthralled with Professor Phelan’s Philosophy of the Mind class. On the last day of class I learned Tony lives in Madrid! A great contact. We sit in the square for several hours. I learn alot from Tony about Spanish politics, customs and, of course, food. I head out later passing street musicians on my way to Pez, a very inexpensive popular tortilla restaurant which I learned about from Monica.

After polishing off the tortilla from Carlos, I order croquettes as my savory dessert.

On the way home, I see this outdoor sculpture which makes me laugh. The first week I was here I passed this same site and there was just dry rocks. One day I saw men “watering” the rocks with hoses and picking out the bad looking rocks. Ok, sorta odd. Now I see that was just a step in creating this beautiful path.

On Tony’s advice, on Wednesday I head out to Parque Oeste. It’s a much bigger park than Retiro and has beautiful overlooks. After lunch at Parlacete de Rosales in the middle of the park I go to see the Temple of Debod, a 2nd century BC temple, a gift to Madrid from Egypt for help in saving the temple from flooding when the Aswan dam was built.

Then I make a long detour to a flower market to gather flowers for Laura’s arrival tomorrow. Tonight I continue with my fun of meeting people that have been refers to me. Patricia who introduced me to Chris, has also made an introduction to Marta. It’s a very warm evening and I walk into the Castellana neighborhood to meet her. Marta is a high energy, articulate corporate recruiter-turned stay at home mom to her 3 year old son and his soon to be born brother. The place is empty when we arrive, but by the time we talk for almost two hours we look around and the place is full. Marta texted me later that I now have a new friend in Spain and I truly feel that. I can’t stress enough how much this “putting lines in the water” has enhanced my Shirleyfests all over the world.

It’s hard to sleep tonight because I am excited that Laura’s plane gets in at 7:45 tomorrow morning.

I see her cab coming and run downstairs. Even though my coffee shop is not open yet, Jose makes me two Americanos to go and we take them up to my apartment. Laura has visited me on about half my Shirleyfests and Mallory has made it to two. I’m hoping to get them both as visitors for many more Shirleyfests. We head off to Golda for a healthy breakfast and then wander through Retiro park.

We have lunch at Los 33 thanks to Mallory’s instagram sleuthing. It’s a LONG lunch with so many courses ( we order everything because we can’t decide).

Later we walk through Malapansa and check out the vintage shops. On the way back we feel called to by a local beer hang out. Empty at the start and 2 beers later…….full of people. We end that night at my favorite neighborhood restaurant Mudra.

On Friday I know Laura will love the photography exhibit as she is quite an accomplished photographer herself. A rooftop view and then we are off to explore La Latina neighborhood.

As you know from earlier posts I’m in love with the tapas at Juana la Loca and luckily we get in. I see my new friend Isabella the owner there and she is excited to meet Laura.

Tonight we do the vermouth tasting at Taberna Elisa.

We walk home through the beautifully lit Madrid at night.

Still hungry after our small plates at the vermouth bar, we finish the night at Delivinos, my local wine shop, where Marcello makes us a delicious cheese plate.

Saturday we try Natif for breakfast. Felipe has told us about this place and it does not disappoint.

Laura knows about Fundación Juan March in my neighborhood so we head there to look at sculptures.

The shopping in my neighborhood of Salamanca is exceptional and after a few hours of that we must stop for refreshment.

Later that night we go to Baraccuda for delicious tacos. Laura must leave Sunday morning and I am sad to see her go. She is a great visitor to Shirleyfest.

As her Uber pulls away, it starts to rain. I decide to hit La Rasto, the big big big outdoor market that is open only on Sunday mornings. I thought with the rain I would be the only one there, but it is full of people.

After scoring a few choice purchases, I come back to San Manuel y San Benito for mass. I always go to one movie during my month to see how similar or different the experience is in a new city. I decide this rainy day would be a perfect day to see the movie Oppenheimer. I go to Yelmo Cines Ideal where movies are shown in their original language.

I ask for a small popcorn and a small drink and immediately see that one similarity is that “small” in any movie house is enormous.

Oh well, it’s a three hour movie. As far as I can tell, I am the only English speaker in the theatre. The movie is subtitled in Spanish. I really like the movie and from what I can understand from the comments around me, it is a hit with this crowd.

Coming home I get to watch the finish of La Vuelta, a 21 day premier road cycling race. It’s quite festive with flags and banners and loud! I love it. An American wins ( Sepp Kuss)!

Later, I go to ultra hip restaurant HER ( because it is on Calle Hermosilla). The food is great, but because it is new, the service has some kinks.

Monday I go near the river, the Manzanares neighborhood, where there is an art complex called Matadero Madrid. It’s a former slaughterhouse that now houses contemporary art.

I spend the day there and also enjoy shopping in a new neighborhood. Later that night I try a new wine bar called Gota. I really like it as it has turntables embedded in the bar. Music, tapas and wine…what’s not to like. I spend time talking to Maddie from Boston and Julian from Buenos Aires. I love the vibe of this place.

Tomorrow I am interviewing the Chief Concierge of the Mandarin Oriental Madrid. Stay tuned for that post and further updates on my visit to Toledo and my birthday weekend with visitors from Lisbon! Thanks for following along on my Madrid adventure.

At this point in Shirleyfest, I usually find myself asking, “Why is this city so appealing?” It’s been a different answer every year. About 10:30 last night, I am sitting at Alimentacion Quiroga when it really hit me. It’s the little things that happen in Madrid. This is a cheese and wine shop from the 50s that is also a local hangout for a glass of wine and small plates, especially cheese tastings.

It is about a 25 minute walk from my apartment and it is a beautiful night.

I arrive and the place is alive with people. The manager, Leonardo, makes room for me at a community table up front. I know I want a glass of Trus, a Tempranillo wine from the Ribera region, but what shall I eat? Beside me a man sitting with two women gently moves his cheese tasting plate toward me and offers for me to try what they have chosen. He tells me his name is Robert and he owns a tequila bar in this neighborhood. It is such a small gesture, but given with a broad encouraging smile. It’s the little things. I realize that this type of joyful encouragement has happened day after day to me in Madrid. People here seem very happy and more than willing to share that happiness generously in small quiet ways.

So what have I been up to since I last posted? First of all, you need to know that I found my “first thing in the morning” and “last thing at night” places. As I have explained in prior year’s posts, these two touchstones are really important. My morning place in Madrid is happily directly across the street from my apartment. It’s called Las Columnas de Recoletos. I go there for my coffee and to say hello to Alfredo, Jose and Manuel, get the latest neighborhood news and any ideas for the day.

My goodnight place is Delivinos, on my corner and owned by Jacinto and his wife Magi who happen to also live in my building. I can stop in at the end of my day, have a drink and a snack and I feel like someone knows I’m home.

Thursday I was at the Prado Museum. The Prado is widely considered the world’s finest collection of European Art and one of the greatest art museums in the world. Having spent my career in mathematics, science and law, my left brain got a constant workout. My right brain not so much. One of the driving forces of Shirleyfest is to pump up my right brain. Madrid with its amazing art museums is the perfect prescription. Because I am here a month, I buy a membership to the major museums so I can visit in many small spurts.

I get a lot more out of the art if I spend 45 minutes there many times than all afternoon at once. Today I hung out with the Goya, Hieronymus Bosch and Ruben for a little while.

I stop for a snack of iberico ham on toast at Verso y Veta to sustain me until dinner. As I’m leaving, I study the various types of hams hanging for people to purchase and the man in charge stops me and offers to let me try all of them so I will know the difference. Yes, please!

I stop into the beautiful Parroquia de la Concepción de Nuestra Senora.

Later it’s dinner at Mudra with my favorite server Mayte.

Friday, I am over by the Royal Palace which is crowded with people in the square. In the corner though, there is an entrance to something new. It turns out it is the brand new Royal Collections Museum. I have heard this was to open in 2023 and here I am, one of the few people who knows it actually is open. No line, many smiling helpers to guide you in. It is a historical narrative running through fifteen centuries of the evolution of Spain as a nation. It’s all underground, beautiful curated and except for my general rule to not spend too long inside a museum , this is one where I could stay all day.

I see a lot and then the rumblings of my stomach make me leave. I know that there is a well regarded tapas restaurant called Juana la Loca nearby. I go there and it is very busy and smells amazing. Fortunately a table opens up quickly and I am soon diving in to my best tapas yet.

I notice a beautiful woman who is talking to everyone and I’m guessing she is a local.

Later I leave the restaurant and I see her on the street. We smile at each other in recognition. “ Are you associated with the restaurant?” , I ask, in what I think is a clever way of finding out her role. “ I’m the owner”, she says. We then talk on the street for quite a while about Madrid, Uruguay ( where she was born), Shirleyfest and politics. It was another warm interaction.

Speaking of warm, I really couldn’t pass up the warm chocolate and churros at San Giles.

Later I need to buy a toaster and my new friend Chris tells me I can buy one at Corte Inglés nearby. I put it into Google Maps and it’s a 40 minute walk. It reveals my personality to say that I said, “oh that is nearby.” But then I see the metro only takes 6 minutes. I have a metro card and I’ve already walked 22,000 steps today so I head to that metro station. When my card doesn’t work, the stationmaster says, “this is not a metro station, this is a Train Station”. oops. Ok I buy a train ticket and 6 minutes later, I emerge from underground and I am at the largest department store I ever been in. Where am I? It’s like I went to California’s East Bay suburbs. In the basement it’s like Harrod’s food hall and then floor after floor of everything you could imagine from Chanel to Creuset. Amazing! By the way, I later learn that there was in fact another location of this department store a 10 minute walk from my apartment. Oops again.

Saturday I go a little west to have brunch at Golda, in the Justica neighborhood. I meet Caterina and Vivian who go out of their way to make me feel at home.

Shopping later in the neighborhood, I am struck by how many eco-friendly stores are located there.

I pass by the Cathedral of Santa Barbara and stop in. On my way out I see this beautiful lady coming to mass.

Walking home I see an auto show and go in to take a few pictures for my car loving brother, John.

I spy Quintin for lunch and am able to get in thanks to the lovely Belin who can tell I’m starving. It’s a happening place. I am surprised when a man with a large dog ( named Google) asks for a table for two.

That night I want to see the photograph exhibit at Círculo de Bellas Artes. I approach and there is a really long line. I go up to ask how long the wait is for the exhibit. The man says there is no wait at all. Come right in . He tells me my 5 euro ticket to the exhibit is also good for me to go to the rooftop lounge when I am finished at the exhibit. Wow! “So what are the people in line for?”I ask. Oh they just want to go to the rooftop lounge. I have to stop myself from going back to the line and telling the people, “ the skip the line move here is to see the photography exhibit”……but I don’t. I would have created an insurrection.

The rooftop is so much fun. People were super friendly and I joined them and good conversation ensues.

I stop in at Divalino’s for my nightcap and Saturday is a wrap.

Sunday, I attend mass at Iglesia de San Manuel y San Benito a few blocks away.

Afterwards I walk to Retiro to attend a classical concert in the park.

I head across the park to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. I’m going to commit heresy and say I prefer this museum to the famous Prado. It has a wide variety of artists and a special exhibit that was breathtaking.

Time to try what I’ve heard a lot about since I came to Madrid…Vermut! I don’t think of Vermut ( Vermouth to us Yanks) as a cocktail by itself. Well it is here! I go to the 1907 Vermut bar Elisa for my first taste. I learn from bartender Laura that there’s a special vermut on tap. She and I have a great conversation and I learn so much about vermut ( and her!). Such an enjoyable experience.

Monday, I stroll through the vintage shops as my Laura is coming to visit this week and I know she’ll be interested.

I stop at the historic Bodega de la Ardosa established in 1892 for tapas. Then later at Misión Cafe for coffee and dessert.

I have a ticket for a guided tour of the Royal Palace. Thankfully I bought my ticket online which allows immediate entrance. Theresa gives us a terrific 2 hour tour of the main rooms of the Palace….we see about 30 rooms and there are 2,300 rooms in the palace. The current king of Spain, Felipe VI, and his family do not use this Palace except for State dinners and certain National events. They live in the Prince’s Pavillion on the grounds of the Zarzuela Palace on the outskirts of Madrid.

Which brings up back to the beginning…my enjoyable evening at Alimentation Quirgoa. These last 5 days have been such a treat of food, art and most of all meeting people and learning about life in Madrid. I’ll continue my explorations and update you again. Thanks for reading. It’s the little things.

There are a few sprinkles on Saturday as the taxi whisks me from the airport to my new home in the Salamanca area of Madrid. What a pleasant surprise when we pull up to an elegant building on a tree- lined street. I meet the first of 4 doormen I will soon come to know..…Alejandro. Through the lobby, I enter a charming courtyard and then quickly I am in my apartment being shown around by Rebecca. Very modern with two big bedrooms, 3 elegant bathrooms, a super kitchen ( including a washer/dryer and dishwasher) and a gorgeous living room with a balcony to the tree-lined street. Ahhh- it’s perfect!

A shower and change of clothes and then I’m off to a dinner reservation nearby at Baraccuda MX. I always make a nice dinner reservation ahead of time for my first night. That way I stay up and get on local time, plus there is nothing worse than getting to a strange city and trying to figure out where to go for dinner.

It’s only a 6 minute walk, but the rain has really started coming down so I’m a bit soaked when I arrive. No problem, though. I meet bartenders Alhan and Danny and hostess Daniella makes sure I get a nice seat at the bar. To make up for my sogginess, they send over little treats, including chips and very spicy jalapeño chili sauce. After a glass of Verdejo and a conversation with Alhan ( mostly about his girlfriend who has returned to Minnesota, but also his suggestions for some great bars in Madrid), I choose the Carracci Ibérico pastor tacos with tomatillo and chipotle sauce.

It’s a great start to Shirleyfest even though I did get drenched on that run back to the apartment.

The next day is Sunday and I want to check out Mercado San Miguel, a covered market originally built in 1916. Vendors are selling olives, tapas, gorgeous pastries and lots of different drinks.

I’m getting civic alerts every 15 minutes on my phone that Madrid is having a serious rainstorm, but to me it just seems like the storms we used to have in Indiana. Ignoring the alert that people should stay home, I’m in search of Casa Lucio in the La Latina district to see if I can get in for lunch. The restaurant has a storied past and a glamorous present. It was once home to a hundred year old restaurant where Lucio Blázquez began to work at age 12. Many years later the original owner sold the restaurant to Lucio. The King of Spain, movie stars, US presidents and just regular folks all love it. I love that despite no reservation I was able to score a seat at the bar. A plate of olives and one plump anchovy are brought to me as I study the menu. I already know I have to have the Spanish omelette with its three perfect ingredients: eggs, onions and new potatoes.

Next to me are a delightful couple, Elena and Andres from Zaragoza. Between google translate and broken Spanish and English we have a fun conversation.

After lunch, I explore the La Latina area thru lightening and thunder. Later that night, I have dinner in my neighborhood and as I’m walking home I see this:

A donut shop! Donuts were a food group when I was growing up and I can’t pass up this opportunity. I meet 23 year old Max (in his last year of university) who has started this shop and it’s taking off!

So that’s how the first 24 hours looks on this year’s Shirleyfest.

In the subsequent 3 days I manage to walk miles and miles, eat so much good food and laugh a great deal. Here are some of the highlights.

Monday

A walking tour with Enrique. Standard procedure for me is to book a walking tour early on. Enrique is quite informative and very funny. Some of the things I see on our tour:

The tour is over and I’m starving. Suddenly I recall seeing that there is a Michelin restaurant next door to my apartment. Mudra. Again I get lucky and waltz right in. Here’s my ricotta stuffed pasta.

Later that evening I go for a short walk in the sunshine to the museum Reine Sofia

I leave the museum and head to a pool and rooftop bar called Oscars for a little dinner and drinks.

Tuesday

I stroll through Retiro park which is minutes from my apartment. Reminds me of Central Park.

After the park, I visit the Church of San Jerónimo de Real which is the remaining structure of the Hieronymite monastery that once stood beside the royal palace of Buen Retiro

Time for lunch! Is it pressing my luck to try the nearby Vinoteca Moratin! Nope. The owner Marcos Gil warmly greets me as if I’m an old friend. He gives me the window table and then proceeds to go over the menu in great detail. I leave it up to him and I’m glad I do.

I am really impressed with this restaurant and Marcos and his small staff. Every table is taken but there is a calmness that makes dining here such a joy. After coffee Marcos and I take a picture together.

Now I do some shopping in this area known as Barrio de las Letras. I need to get home pretty soon as tonight I get to do one of my favorite things I do on Shirleyfest—-meet someone new that lives here. In all my Shirleyfests this has proven the most rewarding and enduring element. Not only do I get to understand what it is like to live in my host city, many of these new acquaintances become friends that I see after I leave.

My friend Patricia in California has kindly connected me with her friend Christopher, a Brit who has lived and worked in Madrid since 2012. We meet first for drinks at a local tapas place where it is readily apparent that while Christopher may be British, his Spanish is nothing short of perfection. I mean when you can tell a waiter that a fly has landed in my glass of wine and have a new glass of wine quickly procured, you are fluent! That’s not the sort of sentence you learn in Duolingo. Christopher learned that I love middle eastern food so he kindly has gotten us into Barganzo, a popular and quite lively Israeli restaurant. You would think I couldn’t eat again after that lunch, but I had more than my share of the many delicious dishes we ordered. Christopher is so much fun and we have lots of laughs! We part knowing we will see each other again during my stay.

Wednesday

My friends Sharon and Dan mentioned they enjoyed Museo Sorolla so I decide to walk up there. I wasn’t disappointed! It was the garden, home and studio of the famous Spanish painter Joaquin Sorolla y Bastia and houses the largest collection of his works. Many of his paintings are people and landscapes under the bright sunlight of Spain and Spanish beaches.

Since I’ve already walked up to the Chamberi neighborhood I decide to explore Mercado Vallehermosa. It’s smaller than Mercado San Miguel but in many ways I like it better. It has some excellent restaurants but it also sells fish, vegetables and produce.

Time to start the long walk back to my neighborhood. Fortunately halfway home is a tapas restaurant that I want to try. It’s called La Musa. I had a selection of small plates and I can highly recommend it for a tasty lunch.

The shopping on the second half of my walk back was exceptional in the Salamanca neighborhood. So was the gelato I get later this night.

So that my friends is the first 4 days of Shirleyfest Madrid. I’m glad I have many more days to enjoy this fantastic city! Please follow along with me as I explore this delightful city.

This year’s choice for Shirleyfest ends up being easy and starts out hard. I always have a running list in my head of next Shirleyfest cities. In consideration for 2023 are Tel Aviv, Auckland, Singapore, Vancouver, Hanoi and a few others. I am running down the pros and cons of each of them when a friend tosses out Toulouse. Highly intrigued, I investigate neighborhoods and apartments and surprisingly I couldn’t get any thoughtful responses. It’s a sign I say. I turned to Tel Aviv where lines in the water reveal a number of people willing to help me. Apartments seem plentiful and owners are responsive. Then several local people mention the number of holidays occurring during my month there and how that could be an impediment to a free wheeling Shirleyfest. Hmmmm.

As fate would have it, I have dinner with a friend visiting San Francisco and he tells me of the wonderful time he recently had in Madrid. Madrid! I haven’t been to Madrid for years and then it was only for a week. I start to investigate. World renowned art museums, a vibrant food scene, a transportation rail hub, enviable nightlife, ancient history……and then I come across Heminway’s love of Madrid.

Hemingway was a huge Madrid fan. The American writer spent a lot of time in Madrid. He was known to love Paris and he lived in Cuba, but Madrid was the center of his world. He adored bullfights, the nightlife in Madrid and loved spending time in Madrid’s countless cafés. He was a regular in Madrid’s oldest restaurant Sobrino de Botín(which also happens to be the oldest restaurant in the world) and in Madrid’s famous sherry bar La Venencia. He is quoted as saying, “I have never been to a city where there are fewer reasons to go to bed and if I did go to bed, to sleep.”

Ok that does it..Madrid it is. I’ll start building my own Shirleyfest book about Madrid and finding the perfect apartment, but please feel free to pass along any ideas you have for me. And of course I’ll be putting lines in the water to meet people so don’t hesitate to connect me with people you know in Madrid.

Sent from my iPhone