We’ll always have Paris.” ~ Humphrey Bogart, Casablanca

“Paris is always a good idea.” ~ Audrey Hepburn, Sabrina

“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.” ~ Oscar Wilde

“There are only two places in the world where we can live happy, at home, and in Paris.” ~ Ernest Hemingway

“The chief danger about Paris is that it is such a strong stimulant.” ~ T. S. Eliot

“Paris is not a city; it’s a world.” ~ King Francis

“Whoever does not visit Paris regularly will never be elegant.” ~ Honoré de Balzac

My Paris time has come to end and now I will move on to Lyon. The photos above represent just one reason I will miss Paris so much. They are from a dinner with my friends at the culinary experience known as Atica. The food, as you can see, is amazing, but the experience is unlike any other restaurant. There are only 8 tables in a large space that, every few months, Chef Ramzi Saade decides on a culture to feature. The tables are in the middle of the room and on all four large walls are projected the most beautiful images of the place chosen. In our case it was Corsica. High resolution images and videos of the sea, the mountains, the forests and the villages of Corsica project throughout the 7 course dinner. Soft sounds of the sea and birdsong from the forest are so subtle that you don’t realize until later that you never heard any conversation from the other 7 tables. It is magical.

To live in Paris for over a month is such a different experience than to come for a few days or even a week. It is also different to have come back to Paris, having been here for shorter visits many times in the past. When a person comes for the first time, or for a short period, naturally they visit all the important sites and eat at the restaurants they have read about or their friends who have also come for short visits tell them they really must try. This visit I do very little of that. I wander the various arrondissements,

I meet local friends,

I have my neighborhood hangouts,

I go to the movies,

And to the many parks.

While even Parisians regularly go to the Louvre (although usually at night or off hours), they also love the less well known museums and I do too.

Some days I’m all over town. Other days I sit in the same café all day and people watch, read and write.

My last week here has been lovely. I’ve actually experienced three seasons during my month. It was summer when I arrived, then there were days of spring with chilly rain and now it is fall.

My birthday was last week and I had many celebrations. My new friend Jill takes me to the restaurant Pristine for a great dinner.

I have a wonderful lunch at Le Chardenoux in my neighborhood.

I have elegant drinks at Le Duc de Morny Library at Le Reserve Hotel.

In between all that birthday eating, I also was so happy to go to the John Singer Sargent Exhibition at the D’Orsay Museé. He is one of my favorite painters and while he is considered one of America’s most important painters, he is still largely unknown in France until now. This month, the D’Orsay organized a huge monographic exhibition of his early works and his ties to Paris. It was lovely.

Aside from enjoying yet another birthday in a foreign country, I’ve been sampling loads of restaurants, art museums, neighborhoods and taken some interesting day trips. Let me give you a sampling of my week.

More Food:

I hear of a restaurant in the 5th arrondissement, Les Papilles, where there is no menu. The chef each days makes four courses and you get what he makes. Today he makes vichyssoise, braised veal stew, and a Sainte-Maure de Touraine cheese course. That stripe of red is the spice I mentioned in my previous post: Piment d’espelette ( I am too full to find out what he made for dessert!) Afterwards, I take my friend Louis’ suggestion and stroll down the enchanting Rue Moufftard. Turns out I find dessert after all.

Art:

I have the opportunity to do a night time visit to the Louvre with friends who are members. It is not crowded at all and there is no waiting to get in. We decide to focus on the Napoleon III Apartments. The Louvre was a palace before it was a museum. These apartments show the splendor of palace living around 1861.

Afterwards we admire the beautifully lit grounds as we walk to another outdoor art installation nearby.

Another day I take myself to the Carnavalet Museum in the Marais. This museum is dedicated to the history of Paris. It is housed in two 16th century mansions and contains furnished rooms from different periods of Paris history and Paris life. I can’t believe I have never been here as it is now one of my favorite museums.

I am also fortunate to see the Paul Troubetzkoy sculpture exhibit that opened September 30th. He is an iconic Italian sculptor that uses Impressionism in sculpture. He has sculpted many many famous people including the master sculptor himself: Rodin.

Of course when the weather turned beautiful again, I turn to just walking and walking and sitting in cafes.

Neigborhoods:

I spend time in the Bastille Market which goes for at least six blocks and where many chefs shop for their produce.

I also sit in the sun in the Tuileries.

Nearby is the US Embassy and I usually try to take a look at our embassy in each city I visit.

I go from Boho shopping to luxury window shopping when I head over to the Champs Elysee and Rue Montaigne.

And then there is the shrine to luxury shopping: Dior.

I am early for my ticketed spot to see the Dior Exhibition so I am offered to go for coffee in their flagship store next door. Ok. Sounds good.

Now I’m at the Dior Exhibition. It is perfectly orchestrated. Room after room about the life and clothes of Christian Dior.

Day Trips:

Fontainebleau

One day I take the train 45 minutes south and see the beautiful Chateau Fontainebleau. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is the only chateau to have been inhabited by all the monarchs from the 12th to the 19th century. Napoleon was the great restorer of Fontainebleau and ironically this is where he abdicated in 1814. I see the room where he signed the abdication papers.

I tour the gardens behind the chateau once I finish touring the chateau.

Having been to both Versailles and Fontainebleau, I much prefer Fontainebleau. It is easy to get to and quite uncrowded. Versailles is wall to wall people and you can hardly see the furnishings.

Moret Veneux-les-Sablons

This is a quaint village not too far from Fontainebleau. It is where the painter Sisley did much of his work. It has a beautiful riverfront park and ancient church. You can train here from Paris. It is quite peaceful with a town square to sit and have a drink.

Provins

Everyone I ask about a potential day trip mentions Provins. It is about an hour and 15 minutes on the train from Paris. It is an intact medieval village. The buildings date from the 12th century. I arrive late morning and walk about 10 minutes from the train station into the center of town. I see up the hill this beautiful dome.

I start walking and come first to the castle. Caesar’s Tower it is called. I pay my 5 euros and start exploring the interior of the castle.

I walk the ramparts and then come to the church called The Saint Quiriace Collegiate Church.

The interior is lovely. Joan of Arc attended mass here in 1429 with King Charles VII. The exterior of the church was never finished.

I climb back down the hill and I’m famished. I have made a reservation at Trattoria Val and I have my one and only Italian meal in France.

Tonight I have drinks with Benoit and Michele, who I met the first week I was here, at Au Cadran Voltaire in my neighborhood.

Afterwards, I walk to my favorite wine bar, Le Pure Cafe, and talk to Louisa, Antoine and Orem. I have a nice meal before walking the few blocks home.

So that my friends is some of how I spent my last week in Paris. Thanks for following along on the journey. I hope you will stay with me as I continue on to Lyon.