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Paris Week 3: Day Trips, Hidden Passageways and Parks

The expression that a picture is worth a thousand words always rings true to me. Let me present you a mostly pictorial description of my week 3 in Paris.

Monday: Chartres

On the one hour train ride to Chartres
I arrive in Chartres and because it is Monday the tourist center is closed, so no bathrooms or WiFi (Chartres gets no 5G signal). No problem. I get a coffee and croissant for 3 euros at the bar next to the cathedral and use their facilities and WiFi.
Chartres Cathedral constructed between 1194 and 1220 is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and called a high point of French Gothic art, a masterpiece.
The quantity and quality of the stained glass windows are one of most distinctive features of Chartres Cathedral. There are 167 stained glass windows. Almost all of those are originals, far more than any other medieval cathedral in the world.
The ornamental stone screen with statues telling the life of Christ is breathtaking.
This labyrinth from the early 1200s is a famous feature of the cathedral. It is one of the only ones in a Gothic cathedral that was not removed when church leaders determined them to be a distraction. I have a very good audio guide which explains that they symbolized the long winding path toward salvation and unlike a maze there was only a single path that could be followed. But the path takes one in and out and back in again. Like life!
When I go on a day trip on Shirleyfest I always search ahead to see if there is a Michelin recommended restaurant in town. I’m lucky to get a table at Racines. I chose the daily special which starts with a cauliflower soup with hazelnuts, then roasted rabbit with stuffed peppers and eggplant followed by a trio of deserts (one being excellent chocolate mousse)

Chartres has more to offer than just its famous cathedral. It is a beautiful fall day so I take a stroll along the Eure River, stop by several of the museums and admire the half-timbered houses of the old town. Then I walk back to the train station and head back to Paris.

Tuesday: Hidden Passageways

It is a bit rainy so today I want to find as many of the covered passages of Paris that I can. These were built in the early 1800s. There were almost 200 of these at their peak, but many were demolished during Haussmann’s renovation of Paris. Only 25 survive and all but one is on the Right Bank.

I start at Porte Saint Denis, built in 1674 it is the first of four triumphal arches built in Paris (the last was the Arc de Triomphe built in 1836). I start winding my way through the 2nd arrondissement.
Each covered passage is different with unique shops. It is quite a logistical task to organize my hunt with an efficient route. I find about a dozen of these before I decide I have to eat lunch.

I stop at La Valentin in Passage Jouffroy in the 9th. Of course I go for the croque monsieur.

I realize I am fairly near the famous kitchen shop E. Dehillerin. This is where Julia Childs shopped when she was in Paris. Say no more! I am on my way.

The store is jam packed with everything imaginable. Each item has a 6 digit code and you have to go to this book in the store and look up the code to find the price.
Nearby is the best spice shop in Paris. I love spices. You might remember me saying in my last post that the spice Piment d’espelette is hard to find in the US. It’s a variety of chili pepper that is cultivated in the French commune of Espelette in the Basque region. I bought two bottle here.

I head home because tonight I’m going out to the suburbs to have dinner with Elena and her husband Sylvain at the restaurant Eugène Eugène.

They live near Puteaux, a pretty tree lined town. It actually reminds me a lot of Menlo Park. I take the metro and a tram and I arrive early. I walk through the downtown as I want to bring them some nice chocolates. It’s their anniversary and they asked me to join them in the celebration. I find a nice shop and make my purchase. As I turn to go the shop owner says “Attendez”! I turn around and she is holding out a lovely chocolate for me to have. It is delicious!
Happy Anniversary!

We eat and laugh and talk for four hours. We walk back to the tram together at midnight. Fireworks are going off. A really fun day!

Wednesday: Montmartre

Years ago on my first trip to Paris, I climbed up the steep staircase to see the beautiful Sacré-Coeue Basilica. I remember it being jammed with people. Today I plan to ease into Montmartre by starting above the Basilica and leisurely getting acquainted with this neighbor that has so much more to see than just the famous Basilica.

I start on Rue Junot, a winding street where poets and artists lived in the past. Edith Piaf rented a room on this street.
I see the Moulin de la Galette, built in 1622, which the owners used to grind the grain for the flour for their tarts.
Who knew the area had vineyards? It is maintained by the parks department and every year the wine produced is sold with the proceeds going to local charities.
I noticed this bright colored jeep coming around the corner. Then he noticed me. Oolala
Finally I am downhill to the Sacré-Coeur. Majestic. It was built in 1875 to be a spiritual balm to France when it was partially occupied by German troops.
As I stand at the downhill staircase, I meet Jill, from Melbourne. We take each other pictures and talk about people we both might know in Melbourne. It’s so much fun that we head off for a coffee together.
After coffee we go our separate ways. I want to check out the vintage stores on the side streets. We agree to meet again to have dinner together on Monday.
The shops are interesting. This area is the fabric district where designers come to shop for fabric for their collections. One last peek at the Basilica and I am down.
Tonight I eat at Orso, a neighborhood French bistro. I meet Steven, the owner who explains the menu to me. When he leaves and I’ve forgotten most of it, I just use my handy google translate. Viola!

A walk home after a beautiful day.

Thursday: Strike day in France

Oddly demonstrators in France publish way ahead of time when they are going to strike. So I knew that today was the day. This is suppose to be bigger than the one we had here on September 10. I know I can’t plan anything that takes trains or metros as they won’t be running. So I set off down my street, Rue Charonne, to see what I can find.

What I find is complete quiet in my neighborhood. No ubers, cabs, buses. It is so peaceful. I walk further and do a little shopping at the boutiques that are open.

This patisserie is considered one of Paris’ best and it’s on my street. I decide I might eat my meals backwards today. I’ll start with a pastry.

I get to the Bastille and this is where it is all happening. It is rowdy, with music and a big police presence.
I don’t want to get embroiled in this crowded mess so I walk over the Seine to the famous Berthillon ice cream shop—-the original one.
Still eating backwards.
Loving this beautiful weather. I’m ignoring all these demonstrators on the bridge.
Pierre Hermé. Best macarons in Paris.
Finally ready for my main course. Pumpkin and leek velouté, jambon croquettes and wine. This is at L’Avant Comptoir du Marché. It is the newest and largest of Chef Yves Camdeborde’s establishments. Packed with people enjoying the weather and the food.
The Saint-Germain market is in the same block so I stop to shop for some things for dinner later at my apartment. I have to get up really early tomorrow to catch the train to Giverny.

Friday: Giverny

I have wanted to go to Monet’s home and gardens for the longest time. I am finally going to get there. Monet lived and painted at Giverny for 43 years. He meticulously constructed his gardens to be an inspiration for his paintings.

I am out the door at 6 am. Walking to the train. No one is one the street.

I take the metro to the train station. Then the train to Vernon-Giverny.
When I arrive there is a little street train boarding people to take them to Monet’s home and garden. Fortunately I’ve done my homework and know to not take that , but instead take the bus around the corner. It is much faster and nicer.
The water lilies pond.
The walled garden.
There is no limit to the number of beautiful photos I could post of this place. It is incredible. I also take a tour of his home. He designed the house for his own taste and kept adapting it to his personal and professional life.

After a bite in the tree-shaded cafe in the village, I reverse my steps and make it back to Paris. Tonight I try a wine bar in the 2nd called Aux Deux Amis.

A very lively place with good wine and small plates.

Saturday: Versailles Musical Fountains

Not every thing always goes as smooth as my trip to Giverny went yesterday. Today’s supposedly simple outing was less smooth. This is the last Saturday for me to be able to see the fountains at Versailles sprouting to the rhythm of baroque music. I buy my ticket in advance and I watch the YouTube video of the performance in anticipation. I check the weather. Nice, no rain in the forecast. I decide to wear a dress—after all I’m going to a palace. I go outside and I feel a few sprinkles. No problem. I’ll just grab my lightweight short rain jacket with a hood. I don’t need my longer raincoat or an umbrella. I train out to Versaille and when I come out of the station…it is pouring. No Ubers or taxis available. I jump on the bus thinking that’s better than walking. It goes the opposite way. I get off, cross the street. Try again for taxis or uber. Nope. Get back on the bus gong the right way. Walk the 15 minutes from the bus stop to the gardens. I’m pretty soaked.

Now I’m in the garden, fountains are not spewing and music is not playing. I get a hot chocolate and the rain tapers off. Finally the music comes on at a roar and the fountains do their dancing. I enjoy it for sure, but I would have enjoyed it more with a dry outfit.

Little wet!
A little hard to hear the beautiful music but it was playing.

One nice thing that happened on this excursion is that I was crossing over to take the train and my hood was barely keeping me dry. A nice man walks up to me and motioned that I should share his umbrella. We walked for about 10 minutes under his umbrella in silence before I asked him if he is a local.”Oh no, I work at Netflix in LA”, he says.

Gotta laugh!

I go home at the end of the day and decide to stay in with some nice French cheeses, baguette and French wine.

Sunday: Brunch, Church, More Monets and a Park

I’ve been seeing the name Holybelly pop up a lot as a great breakfast spot. I go at 9am and I am quickly seated. What a surprise. It is a fun place run by Australians with a great menu and delicious coffee.

When I leave the line is around the block.
I am near Saint Ambrose church and I know there is an 11:00 am mass so I head over there.
While I know the order of the mass, the homily is of course in French. I tried something this Sunday that worked pretty well. I put google translate on and as I sat there, pushed the microphone and the priests words were translated and printed on the screen in front of me. I am really impressed with the attendance at mass. These are locals for the most part and the church is packed.

After mass I head out to the 16th arrondissement. I walked through the Bois de Boulogne to the Musee Marmottan Monet.

This museum houses the world’s biggest collection of works by Monet. It is in a magnificent townhouse with preserved European decor. Monet’s son, Michael donated his father’s works to the museum.

This painting is called Impression, Sunrise. Monet painted it from his hotel room in Le Havre.This work is what inspired critics to start using the word “Impressionism” to define the group formed by Monet and his friends.

After reluctantly leaving the museum (they were closing), I decided to check out Jardin Des Plantes. This is a beautiful park with a zoo, museum, botanical garden and cafes. What a treasure to have this right in the middle of the city.

I cross back over the Seine and think what an amazing week this has been in Paris.

3 thoughts on “Paris Week 3: Day Trips, Hidden Passageways and Parks”

  1. Shirley,

    Your beautiful photos and detailed commentary take me there and make me smile. You could easily add AUTHOR to your many talents. I love this! Big hug, Bev

    Liked by 1 person

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